I was still a child.
As isolated by nature.
I learned to swim in the river, and that's where I met Loonie,
The one who started to help me understood my fear.
Do you think daddy can row this ship crosses the border?
Border? < br /> I don't know.
Maybe, on the right day, it might be possible.
But I don't think you can bring it back again.
Why do you want to do that?
I don't know. That's sea. </ P>
Well, drop it. </ P>
Besides, more fish are here. </ P>
But I don't think you can do that.
Do you think I don't want to? / That's not what I mean.
I just... / Listen.
He came.
I think we should don't do this.
"We"? Then don't follow me. </ P>
I won't follow you. You will only be underestimated. </ P>
Don't follow me. </ P>
Good food, Mrs. Pike. </ P>
I'm sure your mother can cook corned beef, Ivan. </ P>
No.
How did you get the bruise? / Cricket. </ P>
Some say there are two children playing on the highway this morning. </ P>
Said the driver almost lost control of the truck,
Luckily he quickly hit the brakes. </ P>
No. Basic stupid kids. </ P>
I know those kids. </ P>
Really? Yes.
Who are they?
Only delinquents from the end of the road in...
Angelus children. Yes, those are Angelus children.
They are truly troublemakers.
Very tasty.
I wish you had prayed. </ P>
Because if it wasn't God who looked after you, there was nothing else. </ P>
Night, Ivan. </ P>
Sorry, Mrs. Pike. </ P>
Do you think I can also get it? </ P>
Thank you. </ P>
I don't know you are playing cricket. </ P>
It's not. I hate cricket.
I was caught stealing my father's cigarette.
Night, Pikey.
A man old. They are fishing from rocks.
Is he sinking? / Yes. Sink like a rock. </ P>
And your father is in the front row seat. </ P>
So, that's how it is. </ P>
That's why he doesn't want you come here.
How much further? / I don't know.
So what do you do if he puts his hand in your pocket?
Why does he want do that
I don't know. See what he can find?
I know what he can find if he puts it in my pocket. </ p >
large penis that is perfect.
A soft touch of magic, that is what he will find.
Watch out. Get out of the way. </ P>
Keep pedaling, children! </ P>
Look at that. </ P>
Come on, children. It's not far away.
You got it.
Hey, wait!
You will fall! Release.
No, seriously, let go.
Damn
That's quite small. But it's clean and neat.
I'll go for a walk.
Do you think the waves will increase?
I have never seen anyone do something so beautiful...
So useless but elegant.
As if dancing on the water...
... is the best thing and the most brave that someone can do.
Thank you, everyone.
See you, children. See you soon.
See you later. / See you later.
See you soon!
Hi, Mr. Pike! </ P>
Afternoon, Ivan. </ P>
It's a beautiful day, isn't it? It's amazing, Mr. Pike. </ P>
Where are you from, guys? </ P>
Just take a walk. They give us a ride home. </ P>
Amazing! / Your mother is very worried. </ P>
Mengerti? Jadi, masuklah ke dalam dan minta maaflah.
Then come back out here and bring in this chicken, please.
The first board we have is Coolites... </ p >
Short, square, made of Styrofoam...
... which pulsated when you touched it.
That's not very good,
But we think that is very unusual.
Yes, that's it.
What we need, friend, is a real board.
Hard skateboard and from glass fiber.
With strong big fins.
What do you think, Pikelet?
Yes. Yes, fine. </ P>
Good. </ P>
Look at the two of you stupid people. </ P>
It's raining. </ P>
The water is right- it's cold and you just go swimming?
We like to "swim", Daddy!
5 dollars to cut wood loads.
Are you interested?
There are still four other content.
If you don't want to do it, I'll call someone else.
20 dollars per truck load.
15?
10 dollars. Okay. 10 dollars. </ P>
Yes? </ P>
Each of them. You can go. </ P>
Come on. </ P>
I don't want to kill him.
What are you doing?
I don't want you to tell someone else get this from where. Understand? </ P>
Why not? </ P>
Because it's a bad board. That's why. </ P>
Thank you, Slipper./ Thank you love, comrade.
Mine is better.
Mine has its wings. That's cooler.
That morning was my first wave.
I learned to cross the wall from the standing water,
And the board came with me...
As if it's part of my body and mind.
I still judge every glorious moment... </ p >
... and every win and disclosure...
... compared to a few seconds we first ride the waves that.
Can't be matched with money, right?
Good. Go back! Hurry up! </ P>
You need a ride? </ P>
Our bikes are on the hill. </ P>
Yes. Go up. </ P>
Here. </ P>
A pair of death challengers, you two. </ P>
Why? </ P>
Surfing regardless of the weather . How old are you?
14 tahun. Omong kosong./ Hampir 14 tahun.
He's full of bullshit. 13.5 years. Gosh. </ P>
If you're tired of always transporting your board,
You can leave it in my place. </ P>
Gosh, thank you. </ P>
The main big road turns left, half a mile off unpaved roads.
All right. Thank you for the ride. See you later. </ P>
Alright, cool. Thank you, guys. </ P>
Come on! </ P>
What do you think ?
A hippie person. That's what I think.
No, whatever.
My hand is very tired.
Really hippie.
Hello?
Anyone at home?
Hey. Look at this. </ P>
This is clearly a nest fuck a hippie. </ P>
You shouldn't go up there, Loonie. </ P>
Loonie , we might better go.
Yes, yes, I came.
There's no need to upset me.
"Maybe we should go, Loonie."
Morning. </ p >
Brewer Board.
This is nirvana.
You guys turned wrong?
We came here taking our boards.
It's there.
Really? / That person said we could do this.
You better show me.
This one is mine
It belongs to him.
He is not here.
Who? / Sando.
Who? / The person you said.
Right, Sando.
Where is he?
Maybe in Indonesia, I don't know.
Seriously? / No.
That doesn't rule out the possibility. </ P>
What is your name, by the way? </ P>
Eva. </ P>
Dari mana asalmu, Eva?
From the US. Yes. I can tell from your accent,
But which part? </ P>
Utah./ U-tar (Stupid Basis). </ P>
May we put Come back later?
Because we didn't ask, your husband offered...
See you later, Eva.
I know he likes me./ What?
What? He saw me with that special gaze. </ P>
He didn't see anything. </ P>
I mean. He saw me in amazement. </ P>
He is very interested. / I don't know. </ P>
You don't understand this matter, Pikelet. </ P>
You will understand someday. </ P>
He might be his wife.
Yes, so? You don't like with wives? </ P>
The sea is different that day,
But we keep surfing...
Because we don't know the difference.
How, Snowy?
Are you going to leave? / Get out!
Here it is.
Do it.
Take the next one, kid.
Wait for a small wave, huh?
Damn. br /> all night.
Do it, boy! Do it!
What about me?
Do you see that?
You're not my match.
That's great. / Of course.
Fuck him. Gosh. </ P>
Itu besar./ Ya.
Ombakku jauh lebih besar.
Dia diluar sana, 'kan?/ Tentu saja.
Persetan dia. Astaga.
Baiklah, ayo, kita pergi.
Only a fool is out there on a day like this.
I'll conquer it one day. You challenged me?
I challenge you to challenge me.
What is that?
These people make rafts...
... and sail across Pacific follows the flow. </ P>
Wow. </ P>
That's amazing. </ P>
What are we...
You and me? / > Yes. </ P>
Here they are. Heckle and Jeckle. </ P>
Come looking for trouble. Look at this. </ P>
Friend.
I heard a little fun when days.
Yes. We... Height is around 2 or 2.5 meters. </ P>
Yes. There are also some waves of as high as 2.7 meters. </ P>
Yes, it's very large. / 2 or 2.5 meters, huh? </ P>
Yes.
I'll try this board.
You can join if you want to get wet.
Really? / Yes. Wet-wet. Sure. </ P>
Put your board behind. </ P>
Rooster! Go back! </ P>
A smart dog. </ P>
See you later
I once conquered it.
He boasted.
He never skated in something as big as that.
So do you. </ P>
I've conquered one day...
... then then lying in the sand. </ P>
That's impressive. What about you, Pikelet?
Have you done it before? / Yes, once.
Be careful inside. Then after that ,
The Angelus Troupe arrived and took us to the top of the hill,
Menuju karang itu./ Ya? Old Smoky.
Yes, that's where we go.
Yes, there is someone who tries to surf.
Yes, who is that person?
Are people skating there? / Sometimes. </ P>
How do they get out of there? </ P>
It's still a puzzle, isn't it? </ P>
Yes, right, Old Smoky, it's challenging. </ P>
The waves must be around 6 meters. </ P>
That's how the coast is wild. </ P>
Full of surprises .
Hi, Dad. / Hey, guys.
How are you doing?
The meat is delicious, Mom.
You like your meat. </ P>
Dear, try to keep your nose from the sun. </ P>
You know the hat your father bought for you
Hat for fishing? / Yes.
I think it's somewhere.
An exciting day, Mother.
Once we are accepted and allowed to enter,
If we are not with Sando, we just relax to spend time.
Throughout this, the waves passed through the area.
Have you been there before?
Yes, in this area, a few times here,
But it's never far away to North or West.
So how do you go there?
We still haven't found out,
But we have imagined ourselves to a different life. </ p >
See you, friend / See you soon.
Hey!
Look at this.
"Sanderson: Stylish in perfect Rincon. "
He is also on the cover of in front of this one.
Lihatlah dia. Astaga.
This is Morocco in 1968.
This is Hawaii year & apos; 71.
What? / Yes, what else is there?
He has gone places. Hollister Ranch. Where is that? </ P>
Look at him. </ P>
Let's sort it. </ P>
& apos; 73. 71 71.
Hey! A nice haircut.
What are you doing?
Where did you find it?
This is in the boxes.
Okay, no problem.
Re-enter and get rid of it.
I want you stay here and wait for me, understand?
Stay here and wait.
Eva! / Fast, fast.
Do you know how the boxes are there? </ P>
Hey! </ P>
I talked to you. </ P>
Apa?/ Apa yang kau lakukan?
Why do you keep it if you don't like it?
I said, why did you save if you didn't like it?
Liar! / < br /> Don't blame you!
Children, Billy.
Hang out with children.
They will kiss and make up. Let's go. </ P>
He said wait. </ P>
Can I play? </ P>
Get out of it. </ P>
I don't mean angry anyone.
It's just a bunch of old crap.
Don't worry about that.
Put your bike behind. I will take you home.
Listen there will be a bit of medicine going on the day after tomorrow.
The location is offshore, so get up early. </ p >
Early morning? / Before sunrise.
I'll pick you both up. We go to a secret place.
Secret. / Yes. I think you're ready. </ P>
Daddy thinks of carrying a boat for fishing on Saturday,
If you want to come along. </ P>
I might go to the beach with Loonie.
All right.
May I excuse you leave the table?
Where do we go?
Let's say we have a promise with the secret.
That's for you.
Gosh! That's for you.
Look at that ./ Kiss it. Come on, kiss. </ P>
Oh my God. </ P>
Hey! Point me! </ P>
Yes, continue. A little more. </ P>
Hey, click behind me. </ P>
Do this. Hurry up. </ P>
Where are we? </ P>
This is Barney & apos; s. </ P>
Drag the boat. </ P>
Kenapa namanya itu?
Because Barney lives here.
That's all I can tell you.
Wow!
Do it. Come on. </ P>
What about this person named Barney? </ P>
Barney. </ P>
He's not always hungry, so we have a chance.
Bastards. Tell me it's not a shark.
All right. That's not a shark. </ P>
It's not a shark in general, say that
What? / What? </ P>
I came to here all year. All my fingers are still complete.
Have you seen him?
Yes, maybe 5-6 times.
Sharks What is this kind of thing?
As I said, it's not like usual.
Stop joking and just say just say.
White Pointer. White sharks that are good at hunting. </ P>
Bajingan keparat.
How big is this shark? / 4 meters.
I don't know. It's hard to say, Pikelet.
But it has big head,
And a grin like Richard Nixon.
Why did you bring us here?
I thought you had courage for that.
You're not afraid, & apos; right, Loonie?
He brags. He plays with us.
Maybe. </ P>
He calls us cowards. </ P>
He thinks we will only sit here like a pair of daughters. </ P>
Bastard. </ P> >
This isn't a good idea.
Bastards... Fucks, fuckers.
Fuck the big sharks!
Come on !
Come on!
Everything has a time limit.
You get the waves today. That's very good.
Suppose we have a camera.
That was too good. We should take the picture.
You don't need photos. Only to show and proof .
You don't need to prove anything. You're there.
At least you saw that. / I swear.
It's not about us, but about you. </ P>
Your moment with the sea. </ P>
That's a hippie boast. Your thoughts... Did you say? </ P>
p>
That's a hippie boast.
Really? / Yes.
It doesn't matter to you.
You have lots of photos for prove what you are doing.
Honolua Bay. Morocco.
It's all worthless. Just a piece of paper.
It's easy for you to say.
Kan will be out there, thinking, "Do I know what I'm doing?"
"Am I convincing?"
"Or I'm just ordinary ? "
How does it feel? / What does it feel like?
When it gets serious.
You will find out.
I mean... 6 meters away. </ P>
I'll tell you something. You're glad there's no picture. </ P>
But when you're alive and standing in there in the end,
And you only succeed do it...
That's not... You can't...
You're right completely alive, completely on your body.
You will feel this insist. That...
As if you feel God's hand. </ P>
The rest is only sports and entertainment. </ P>
Can I ask for frog shoes, please?
The waves we chase come along with the storm.
Clean and strong.
This is Old Smoky.
That's about half a mile offshore.
And this is a remote island.
So when the waves reach here,
The water around it will increase... < /p>
..and it turns itself over from inside-out.
It's not about height and size,
But about volume , thickness.
That's where the power is.
We paddle there, we wait for the current.
We check our position here,
p>
Limestone line, row of trees,
But if you're wrong...
... and you're carried away too far crossing the reef,
Then you're really in trouble
It's not about what happened here.
There's nothing to do with thoughts in your head.
But about the effort that you have done.
That and surrender.
Giving up is what has set you free...
... to truly blend with moments.
To commit to your body and soul.
With complete certainty.
Without a little doubt.
Not one bit.
Hey, Rooster.
Hi. Where are they? </ P>
What are you doing? </ P>
Where are the others? </ P>
What do you want? </ P>
Sorry, I thought. ..
I thought I heard a voice and came here to check it out.
You missed him. He goes somewhere to surf. </ P>
Besides, the wind is being focused on land. </ P>
Yes. </ P>
What happened with your knees?
Ski accidents.
Have you been skiing?
No. I've never seen snow. </ P>
Yes, that...
... white and cold. </ P>
How long until it gets better? </ P>
How long is a thread?
What thread?
It doesn't matter.
Yes.
I'm sorry.
See you later.
Old Smoky is right here. Anchor drop.
It's inside.
It doesn't look like that in if it's above 3 meters.
Let's look around, okay?
Wait.
Loonie, wait!
Like chili? / No.
You have to learn to like it.
This is new.
That, Pikelet, is my wife.
You're kidding me. / I'm serious.
It's so charming. / Yes, it's very beautiful, isn't it ?
How did he do it?
Leaps from the derivative steep cliffs.
He just floated in the air while doing laps.
And landed with his feet.
As soon as the plan was planned. Gosh.
Yes, he... Friend, he is quite famous .
And that is Utah years & apos; 71.
He is out there maybe, 3-4... More.
He is there now.
Playing skiing? / Gosh, no.
Not with that knee. He...
He tried other operations.
They will fix that? / Hopefully.
How does he survive here? There is no snow here.
I think he prefers so.
I mean, if you can't surf,
Do you hold it off on the seafront?
The sea is beautiful . That's enough for me.
Nonsense.
No, seriously. You know, just see it.
Yes, I better die.
Leave the cage wire the chicken for me.
They are not a problem.
I don't want them here.
>
For God's sake. Billy, grow up.
Hey, Rooster. Smart dog.
You should go.
Don't worry. </ P>
Stay alert. There is something going to happen in the South. </ P>
Welcome back, Eva.
Come to your place.
There's no way I will let my wife arrange.
It's impossible!
He too often left his governing wife.
That was different from your mother.
I like your mother!
< i> There is nothing else we can do but wait.
Then we receive news. / Good night. p>
Old Smoky is ready to be done.
God bless.
Unfortunately for Loonie, two days before,
He stumbled on the steps of the bar...
With a little help from his father, no doubt.
That's it.
Come on, hurry up
Are you serious?
Where do you want to go?
Hey, Loonie... He doesn't want to see?
I don't think so.
Hey, come and see your friend.
And ruining the moment your hippie secret?
Look and learn. / Don't worry. I like that. </ P>
Show a little support. Why is he a coward. </ P>
Coward. Don't be a bastard. </ P>
Get away, coach! </ P>
You will obviously get wet this morning. </ P>
Here feels dry,
But over there it will be clean.
Exit is the easy part.
Entering is a time when you have to concentrate. </ P>
You have to be patient, understand? </ P>
We don't want to die for money, right? </ P>
I'm curious what people usually do today.
What are you doing?
You use Brewer. / Are you sure?
Yes, yes, take it before I change my mind </ p >
Thank you. / See what I'm doing...
Then you follow.
You must be able to match that.
You know what to do. </ P>
You will never forgive yourself. </ P>
Pikelet. </ P>
Pikelet! </ P>
Pikelet !
More widened! In tidal currents!
Deep waters. Safe. </ P>
Come on, guys. </ P>
We will do something else. </ P>
Look at me. </ P>
Let's do it something different, understand?
We will play a little game. / Okay .
We will see who can touch more basic first.
Ready? One, two, three.
You're here, Pikelet.
You're here now, okay?
Just just panic, that's all. We all are. </ p >
You can do this, friend. You can do this, okay?
Yes? Let's do this. </ P>
Yes. / Let's do it. </ P>
Alright. / Come on. </ P>
Okay, guys. You have to release the first one,
Let it draw more water. </ P>
Then then you will conquer the second, okay? </ P>
Paddle there, turn around and do it. </ P>
Don't hesitate one bit. </ P>
Understand? </ P>
Here it is. </ P>
Come on, Pikelet. </ P>
Come on, Pikelet! </ P>
Click! </ P>
Yes, guys. Good work. </ P>
Good work. </ P>
Yang berikutnya akan menyenangkan, oke?
Hold with your lower muscles, decrease the speed a little...
How big is it?
Big enough to make this Magic Boy's heart beat.
How big...
... Magic Boy? / I don't know.
3 meters? 4.5 meters? </ P>
Yes. Maybe 3 meters. </ P>
Yes. You slide on the waves as high as 3 meters. Convincing. </ P>
So he got the waves? </ P>
Yes, yes, he works well. </ P>
I received the worst blow ever.
But you did it well.
I made history enough.
He was not the first or the youngest in Old Smoky,
But he saw what he had to do,
And before the winter half, he finally got the chance.
Whatever we did that day or another day,
Loonie did it harder.
He went last and more inside than the two of us.
He doesn't just defeat Old Smoky.
He conquered it.
He is surfing like a person who doesn't believe in death.
Yes, you're amazing, Loonie! Amazing, friend! p>
Amazing! / You're great, friend
That's the way. Very good.
Hey, hey! No , wait on the bus!
The truck driver! The truck driver gets stuck!
Open the key! Open the lock!
Three miles offshore,
The newly formed granite island... Seal colonies...
Very high risk but
You glide from the bay old whaling.
Have you done it before? / I checked it several times.
Looking for his ins and outs. But you haven't slipped there yet?
You don't know when the time to stop.
No, actually, I guess you know when you should stop,
But you don't want to stop.
Not yet, Pikelet, I haven't rolled there.
There are waves in the waves. </ P>
That's right, Nautilus. </ P>
The coral is just below the surface. </ P>
The water subsides, the coral appears on the surface.
You can only surf from middle to high.
Next border.
Do you think it's possible? Honestly, seriously?
Honestly, Pikelet?
I feel like defecating < br /> just see it.
You're afraid, & apos; right?
I'm afraid.
Yes, fear is natural, friend.
There's no need to be ashamed of that.
It's up to you.
People face a sense fear every day.
They bargain
> with God.
They make decisions, they focus on that,
Then they are halfway there.
Dare to try, that's human.
I'm sure you mean humanity .
Yes, thank you.
We can always back surfing with 2 feet and sun waves.
You coward!
I didn't say I was scared. You're the weird one.
He said he was scared. Strange! Weird! </ P>
We started the research on Nautilus.
Homework, Sando calls it.
But that winter is not very reliable.
And without waves, we feel bored... .
... and restless.
See you later.
Bruce Pike,
You're moody, selfish and very negligent.
Because of that, I hereby tell you....
... that you, starting seconds this and so on,
Freed from your duty < br /> as my girlfriend.
Greetings, Queenie Cookson.
If Ahab finds his way, You, me,
Or another member of this ship will ever see the house again.
I heard Loonie quit school.
Come on, Mr. Starbuck, you're just a little depressed.
Dad says he works in a factory. </ P>
He isn't that big. / I not afraid of Moby Dick...
I am afraid of God's anger. / Lord's anger?
That's a task our lives to kill a whale,
And utilize their fat for the lights of the world.
A big storm is coming.
On the weather map, it looks like like a sea tumor.
Sando is excited.
He believes we have to do it this time.
When you do that, do it earlier and widen.
I don't know if I feel it. </ P>
Come on, you know what to do. </ P>
I think I'll look at it for a moment. </ P>
I didn't bring you here to see, guys.
Come on! Gosh, fast! / Wait! </ P>
Fuck this. I go. </ P>
Look, I thought I brought surfers with me, </ p >
An amazing person.
I said wait!
Friend, you have to feel that!
Hey, Rooster. Hey...
Come on. </ P>
This is for you. </ P>
Why did you sneak around? </ P>
I came to meet Sando.
What? / I want to meet Sando.
Are you last night?
What? No.
That doesn't matter.
Can you help me with these items, please?
Sorry?
Can you help me with these items, please?
Damn rain.
Do you want coffee?
Let me do it. I can make coffee.
You sit down.
Thank you.
What is your knee?
Here we are, Pikelet.
Left alone.
What do you mean?
He also didn't tell you? / Tell me what?
He left.
>
My guess to Indonesia.
He also invited your friends.
What? / Yes.
He invited Loonie to Indonesia.
You are left alone.
You won't be able to leave either. You have to go to school.
Teachers and bad attitudes lack more like holding hands.
Do you want coffee?
I don't even drink coffee.
Come in and dry your body.
You can die cold out there.
I'll get you a towel and dry clothes.
Thank
I can do it. It's OK.
Hug me.
Alright with me, understand, Pikelet ?
I'll do it.
Don't boast about me.
Not with Loonie, not with anyone.
p>
All right.
It won't.
No one.
I received an postcard from Thailand.
There are waves in Thailand.
Something about supplies. Who knows?
Now he's talking about the eastern islands.
Why did you let him go?
He needs it.
What about your needs?
He knows what I need.
I'm cold. You should go. </ P>
I can make a fire. </ P>
Gosh, you are getting weird. </ P>
What are your activities? / Nothing. Not much. </ P>
As if you disappeared from circulation. </ P>
There's a lot going on, that's all. </ P>
So, many happened or not much? Which is correct? </ P>
I still want you to take me to a social event, understand? </ P>
Do you want to do it? </ P>
The last few moments > in the air...
That was the last happy moment in my life.
I miss feeling scared.
Maybe this will improve this time.
I love you.
You just love sex.
No. I'm serious. </ P>
You don't know what you mean. </ P>
Don't say something that you don't understand. No.
All right. </ P>
Daddy will pick you up at 11:30 p.m.
Thank you, Daddy. </ P>
I can't.
It's nothing.
It's up to you.
Want to play something?
I don't understand.
I'll show you.
What if I don't want to?
I'll be disappointed, I guess.
Alright. Show me to me.
You know the process of hyperventilation, & apos; right?
Gosh, why?
Because, little boy,
It makes me feel a little scared.
What? You also want me to strangle myself? </ P>
No, of course not. </ P>
I just want you to see. </ P>
Gosh, I don't know .
It feels better, I can't tell you.
And it's safer, like with a diving partner.
I don't want you to hurt yourself. </ P>
That won't happen. </ P>
Not if you don't let me. </ P>
I love you
We'll see.
Pikelet, it's OK, I'm fine.
Lihat aku. Aku baik-baik saja.
Merasa takut itu cukup menyenangkan.
Kau seharusnya sudah tahu soal itu sekarang.
Apa Sando melakukan itu kepadamu?
I don't have to answer that.
I don't like that.
I understand you, Pikelet.
You're different.
You have this look...
As if you will lose something. </ P>
And you're right. </ P>
You're right to hope that can be snatched away.
Because that can happen.
I don't know. That doesn't feel right.
I guess you should not ask me to do something- that thing again.
Yes, I'll wait here.
Are you pregnant?
Go home. Fun ends.
What is my child? / Don't come home.
I can...
Do you want me to cut firewood?
No. Go away. </ P>
Hey. How are you doing? </ P>
When did you come back? </ P>
Semalam.
So, how are you there? / Unbelievable.
We experienced everything. We were shot at, kicked out,
Bitten by a spider, deported.
Beaten by the waves.
I got this.
What happened?
Only coral. That can really hurt you. </ P>
Uluwatu. That's... That's crazy. </ P>
You must like that. </ P>
A wave like a green wall that is big and smooth, scrolling all day. </ P>
Yes ./ Wow!
That's amazing, guys. You really lose.
I brought you something. This is.
What? / Close your eyes.
Extend your hand.
Don't look. Just kiss it.
It smells like dirt. </ P>
I have to hide that at the airport! </ P>
Itu jamur.
It's like my talisman. It might make money.
Put it in your pocket.
You will thank me later.
You look tall and tough, Pikelet. Male. </ P>
I like that. </ P>
But I heard you went to Old Smoky and removed the Brewer. </ P>
Yes. / It will upset him. </ P>
He might also be upset about other things. </ P>
What are you talking about? </ P>
Nothing. Just gossip. </ P>
Dirty gossip. My father, you know? </ P>
Nautilus will happen this weekend. </ P>
Yes?
Sunday morning, according to Sando.
He said he wanted to talk to you.
I haven't met him. / He was afraid of Nautilus. </ P>
Very scared. </ P>
He's getting older, but...
Hello, Ivan. You're back.
Yes, I live with Sawyer.
See you Sunday. Dawn. </ p >
Sando wants to talk to you.
How are you? / Good.
Yes?
You cut wood a lot burn it in my place, Pikelet.
Very much./ Yes.
Don't think I'm not knowing this.
Eva is happy someone is accompanying. That's what he said.
Yes?
I got the board back. Brewer.
Really? Yes.
The Tuna anglers find it's 25 Kilometers off the high seas.
Yes. Sorry about that. </ P>
Don't worry, man. No need to apologize. </ P>
You conquered Old Smoky alone. </ P>
very extraordinary, Pikelet. I salute you, friend.
That's amazing.
In my book, you are entitled to the board.
It's yours, friend. For you.
Thank you, but... / No, it's yours. Okay? </ P>
Thank you. It's okay. </ P>
Your friend Loonie... Oh my God! </ P>
You know he is like what.
It's a long story. He can't be trusted.
A smart little bastard. He's very crazy, actually.
What do you know? </ P>
What? </ P>
I think you know what I'm talking about. </ P>
No.
I will become father.
Yes. I think you look different. </ P>
Really? </ P>
You will give me congratulations or something? </ P>
Yes! Of course. </ P>
Congratulations. / Yes, thank you, friend. </ P>
Listen, there...
There will be a storm coming from from the South.
That should have impacted Sunday Nautilus this morning.
The waves are clean and nice. > Perfect angle. </ P>
You have to be there with Brewer under your feet. </ P>
Yes. Okay. Okay. </ P>
Okay, friend. I will pick you up at dawn. </ P>
So, yeah...
Yes, what? </ P>
I didn't come along. </ P>
Damn.
Are you serious? / No.
It's not for me.
That's a bad wave and I don't like that.
Bullshit.
Sign in.
Enter.
That doesn't make me ordinary or a coward
It's just not for me.
All right, friend.
Maybe you should take your board from behind.
No, it's ok. That's not even my daddy.
I said you were entitled to the board. So it's yours, okay?
Now take it board from behind.
Pikelet, come here!
You have your privilege yourself, Pikelet.
Don't lose it, understand ?
Now go.
This is for you.
There is fear in all of us.
I know that now.
How do you live with fear that makes who you really are.
Years later when I got word about the Loonie,
I didn't say I was surprised.
< i> But it hit me hard.
Single shot behind the head.
A kind of drug transaction which has become chaotic.
He always lives as if he doesn't fear losing. </ p >
Because he thinks he is not important.
He is important to me.
I miss crazy bastard that.
I'm still surfing whenever I can.
Not to prove something. Just to feel it.
That sweet moment.
Strength changes underfoot.
And in a brief moment and captivating it...
I dance.