SOUTH PACIFIC
In this day and age, you need to go a little beyond
or at least want to take a few more steps
any other person is willing to take.
Subpack e sincronia by DanDee
Walsh vence o Xcel Pro
Surfer THE 100 BEST WAVES
PURPOSE OF THE MACHINE
That's it, boys.
long flight.
Somewhat relaxing.
Take that tip.
Kind of got stuck in weather and lost the best day of high tide.
It's part of what we do as surfers,
you get fucked.
Not at all voyage we do have perfect surf,
and always work.
Just does not work like that.
Now we are at the end of summer,
and now my focus is shifting to the northern hemisphere
and preparation for Hawaii.
When forecast a strong El Nino,
BROTHER
Crashing HOOKIPA
... everyone is excited.
The El Niño basically is like a pattern of unusual weather.
The Pacific Ocean is warmer than usual ...
SURFER
... and allows us to take many big waves.
Really I started to take seriously
when Ian sat with me and one day Shaun
and he said, "Get ready, this may be the craziest winter of their lives."
BROTHER
The last El Nino was 1998.
It was an amazing winter.
1998 JANUARY
There were many sessions giant waves at Jaws.
Surfing extreme, extreme conditions,
just day after day, of perfection.
DESIGNER OF BOARDS AND COACH
Taylor Knox caught a wave in Mexico
that has withstood the test of time.
An El Niño really strong happens so rarely,
this is a great opportunity to see what is the limit,
as far as surfing goes.
I believe we will see the biggest waves being surfed ...
SURFER
... in the history of our sport.
Jaws has basically the biggest wave in the world.
And Ian lives just across the street.
So it is in a very unusual position.
SURFER
If Jaws is rolling, surfing the world falls on your shoulders.
It is prepared for good waves of one to two meters,
but are waves of 18 meters.
And something you can surf,
know, you can paddle inside.
The way that Ian and these guys are surfing,
they are surfing as if they were waves of two meters.
You have to laugh. It is difficult to understand, you know?
SURFER
There is almost no other place that offers such intensity.
A wave can drag you tens of meters underwater.
With a violence that you can not
control your arms, you hit,
really think you're going to die.
Fight and try to push
You can burn more oxygen than you can.
It is a calculated risk you take,
and you manage and minimize risks
with your fitness
and mental preparation.
325, Ian.
Good ride, good job ...
and it seems!
Good test.
Ian is one of our most dedicated athletes.
In fact, across the curriculum,
he probably participated in our training ... more
HIGH PERFORMANCE COACH
... than any other I can remember.
You run out of things that are very practical, we call
tactical training.
All these things, you can see
directly related to surfing better.
Interestingly, Ian also pioneered the limits.
He participated in training projects where the challenge,
and in that environment,
I think we see progress in training for big waves,
this idea of ​​overcoming pressure.
Fifteen seconds. You want to go to the next stage. Let's go!
She managed, managed! Let's go! Good work, buddy.
He rehearses his techniques
in order to make the right decision at the right time,
when the parameters are very high.
If they are caught by a wave of 20 meters,
They need to have all the skills and techniques
COACH OF FREE DIVING
to hold his breath in an emergency that may last a minute,
and need to do it again and again,
with only 15 second intervals.
His violent shark.
The effort by which we make the move is equivalent
to any highly trained group, with which we have worked.
Just to know that I am giving the maximum of me
to stay as comfortable as possible
the less comfortable I can imagine.
He's doing dives 50 meters,
apneas nearly five minutes.
Need to be prepared to the maximum level,
otherwise you end up finding,
wave that can not stand.
DECEMBER 2012
A BANK CORTES KM 180 WEST SAN DIEGO
In my own experience,
DK saved my life, no doubt.
I drowned in Cortes Bank.
The ambulance is on the way.
What happened?
You were pulled down and just got ...
The board hit you in the head, belly or somewhere else?
If not for DK to be there ...
DESIGNER OF BOARDS
... you know, he's the big reason Greg was still alive.
If not for him,
heroically abandoning or jet ski
hundreds of kilometers in the sea,
to get my lifeless body,
and then hug me and go through two or three big waves ...
You will not find any other rescue team like this in the world.
Save someone's life, especially
someone like him, so close,
really motivated me to do what we do today.
I and my brothers, we are all a bit younger
but we moved home, taking care of each other.
And that's just because of Ian and his brothers.
We used to call them "squirrels".
Ian was the rider and they, his little helpers ...
DAD
... and it was very good.
If Shaun and DK are there, the twins, he's fine.
Like, they will pick up, no matter what.
MOM
It makes things easier.
It's never easy, but it helps a little.
What a crazy combination, the four brothers.
They are a team.
He is the older brother, all follow in his footsteps.
If he was a degenerate,
BROTHER
probably we would have followed that route,
but he was a model student at school.
My love and passion for big waves
It would not be what it is without my brothers.
Simply would not work.
It seemed that even before winter begins,
he was working hard.
He kind of knew there was an anticipation there,
since the El Niño was drawing
and the weather began to settle.
He is one of the few elite athletes in our sport.
And the twins, they kind of have a different appearance.
They are like your own natural training, I would say so.
It's really to connect with yourself
and remain physically active, no matter what you do.
Besides all the science and supporting community
and trying to help you improve in large waves,
I think it's just important that it surfing, for good surfing.
There is no competition, the waves are as big as can be ...
connect with your friends and enjoy,
and this is an important part of this program.
My favorite type of surfer is the guy
you can have fun with it.
If the wave is one meter or 25,
it will still be able to go there and have fun.
Guys like Ian are the guys where really inspired me, so.
Basically, every high tide, you have a decision to make,
because there will be a competition in which you have to worry
or if you will surf the waves you really want, which is the big deal.
When you leave?
I leave tomorrow night, probably to Oahu,
for competition.
I would go for Jaws, only to rust removal.
As you realize all here?
It's so much.
What you mean? You have two kids.
Yes, children will be easy after dealing with all these things.
Competed on the world circuit for about 11 years.
When I was stopping, Ian was just beginning,
trying to qualify for the circuit.
And I said, "Man, there is no one of his age
that is behind the big wave bid. "
So I went to Ian and said,
"Let us become partners surfing big waves together."
NOVEMBER 2007
I think he made the right choice
in surfing very big waves and still be competitive
events and everything.
Some wave there?
It is very windy.
Face, is very uneven.
See how big is the second wave.
It would be difficult to maintain the position, with all this turbulence.
The tide was a little weak and strange,
the wind was totally wrong.
What do you want to do?
I think I'll get out.
I'll stop in Kuau, pick things up and I'm going.
We are very late.
Have fun there.
He decided to go to Honulua Bay,
and I think he decided to hunt with arrows.
Really complicates things when you try and do what Ian does.
He is really focused on surfing giant waves at Jaws,
and it is actually in love with surfing competitions.
The waves are a quarter of the size.
Then they will no longer participate in the event?
You are rolling right now.
My battery has changed from the third day today, the second day,
and it has become an utter madness to get everything ready
and to pack to go to Oahu.
It's just insane, this whole competition season.
I try to help whenever I can.
He tries to balance the two, which is no easy task.
Just before my battery,
I was warming up in some new boards.
In the first wave, climbed on her and she literally broke.
I thought, "This is ... Is this really happening?"
-In a wave. -In a wave, like this?
I can only improve from this point.
Welcome to HIC Pro 2015, a $ 100,000 event.
Ian Walsh ten years ago, winning this event,
and of course, former finalist,
doing very well in the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, in the last year.
If you know Ian, he's out there looking for the biggest wave in the world.
Jack Robinson, 17 years old, a phenomenon in Australia.
It will be a wave of good score for Robo.
Ian ... we'll see. Red, Ian Walsh.
Here we go. Jack Robinson at work, shooting in front.
Jack Robinson, white, first, Ian Walsh, second.
He's trying to improve 5.67.
Beautiful wave.
And it sounds the alarm.
Ian Walsh, excellent surfing.
He tore the Robo first.
Testing microphone. Yellow leather. red leather.
Ian, nice to meet you.
It's good to see more of Ian Walsh.
-My congratulations, Ian. -Thank you.
just give hi to the group of 4th year of my mother, who is watching,
Dad Pukalani, Maui em.
Hello, School Pukalani!
Ian was well. Uncle Ian detonated.
With you guys.
-Good to see you. -Right.
And here we go 23 minutes left for two more surfers go to end
along with Kaito Kino and Billy Kemper.
It's a takeoff in turbulent waters for Ian Walsh.
Dictating the level here for the semifinal number two.
Robo surfing.
Beautiful maneuver combined curve.
Here we go, Ian Walsh.
It is the famous Ian Walsh right there.
Jack Robinson on segunda then.
Well, that will solve the second semifinal.
Ian Walsh and Jack Robinson, advancing on first and second to end
to face Billy Kemper and Kaito Kino.
And we are on the way to the end.
-Ian Walsh. -Ian Walsh.
A beautiful output, slides on the curve at the bottom and rises to the top.
An aggressive curve down again, another upset,
a little more aggressive, the second turn.
My goodness, I could not wish for a better start as a competitor.
Billy got out.
Let's see the maneuver closing.
And behind him, Ian Walsh, quickly reaching that 9.93.
With this relaxation, and he is in the lead.
And this is just a victory lap at this point.
There are only few people
as good as him in small waves, and especially in large,
and the proof is their performance in Sunset Beach.
Look for Ian Walsh, he's on fire.
Billy Kemper, he got 5.6 in this event ...
You are a now twice champion HIC Pro,
2005 and now in 2015,
de Maui, Ian Walsh!
Back to the bike shortly thereafter.
Sure.
Winter has come.
What a day.
Damn, I'm so excited!
It's so nice to win a tournament.
God, I'm so electric.
But it is so good. So many times, I've been so close to getting it.
... for Ian Walsh,
and certainly for all children
the class of her mother, the School Pukalani ...
EAST Joint Base Airport
BOX OFFICE
They are 16h30.
Good job. Congratulations.
Me fun.
I'm so excited.
Thank you guys.
Surely it would not have been possible without all of you guys,
we are all one big unit,
then thank you and enjoy yourselves tonight.
I do not know about this year.
Let's just pray that everything goes right, the safety of all,
because all are eager to proceed.
With the winter season with the El Niño coming,
there are guys who really believe and want to surf
in waves of 25 meters around,
and the sky is the limit, you know, the size of the wave that can surf,
It depends on the desire of each.
Always will progress.
For me to sit here and say,
"No, in our generation, no one will overcome it,"
It is stupidity.
In one day
with certain conditions, with the right security team.
Probably see someone this year that would make impossible.
You can feel the tension in the air,
but I always realize how much they play.
They prepare the day before, agree the dawn ...
4 JANUARY
Forecast: 3,7m for the 2nd Front Height 16.7 Estimated: 14.5 m
The first high tide of the year in Jaws is always very exciting.
Everyone is a little nervous and excited to see each other.
It has that energy in the air that you can not play.
It's almost as if we were entering
in a battle of gladiators every time we go there,
type, you do not know what will happen.
AQUATIC SAFETY
I was not really here this morning,
then all slowed instead of starting at six o'clock,
we decided to just go back to the things
and never tire to stay out here waiting for the waves.
The winds come,
but there is no wind now, so as soon as we leave here
better.
The first thing that you really feel is the ocean texture.
So you feel if there is wind or if the sea is rough.
There is a lot coming refraction rocks.
Do you feel the tide energy,
and it's really when things hit the day.
Ian is rowing. Ian is starting.
It was a difficult.
It was very steep.
Keep an eye out, here comes the sequel.
Take the rope. Take the rope.
All right?
Right. It's Greg.
It's Ian.
From January.
I think I cut myself ugly.
We're going back to the boat. Ian cut his finger.
Prepare the boat.
I think I can still surf? -Yes.
Just wrap. Sew later.
I was a small hiccup in the middle of the day.
The back of the rudder cut my finger,
almost to the bone.
I did a quick dressing and returned to the sea,
and I took another cool wave that was very unstable.
Just taking a break to rest
and the waves were strange afterwards.
That little wind dose makes the difference between day and night.
Not see anything and have salt water in his eyes ...
jump is basically like a bridge
without knowing what's down there.
On a very good day at Jaws, you could go and just get a wave
those seven, eight, nine.
Finally we gather the whole team,
and I will have a finger sewn tonight
make sure I did not broke any tendon or something.
I think it was an average day today but it was a good start.
It's just the beginning.
Stretch. Good. Close.
Estique.
Good. Now lower your hand completely.
If there is competition, an epic tide,
and you need to surf tomorrow, I could protect him.
It is best to stay out of the water for a few days.
Yes, I am seeking the tenth day.
-Right. 'Then six days would be my goal.
The whole history of giant waves surfing is very interesting.
You know, these guys are pioneers.
They go there without strings and without safety equipment.
There has always been this idea that anything with more than ten meters
It starts to get too dangerous to surf,
this limit impossible size.
And then there was the introduction of this type of surfing with trailer.
Basically, if you can go up on a surfboard,
It could be put into a large wave.
Can surf ten or 15 waves such
because it can be positioned more.
It has a machine that can travel at 65 kilometers per hour,
and has a wave of 15 meters in that direction, come and get it.
Guys do not surfariam the year, they would get the 15 meters.
It's insane.
You take any ordinary person to surf paddling Jaws,
You can not catch a wave, and boarded,
It will be totally annihilated.
The tow surfing revolution showed us it was possible to survive
much larger than we thought waves.
The tow surfing helped establish
the jet ski as a security tool
and to do all that is in the ocean.
It was really the step to the next evolution of the giant wave surfing.
I used to compete with the paddle boards,
and I had the idea that I could do
these boards are faster.
That's when Ian, Greg and some other guys
They began to row these things.
We made this conscious decision to stop the tow surfing
and back row.
Full speed with which the wave travels when it reaches 15 meters
It is too fast for the standard board design. Everything must change.
They are ready? I'm not sure.
No one has done this before, so no one knows.
Chris Christenson, he has the details
I think that no other designer has surfboard.
So, I find something that gives us a little more
and that every time I give me wrong,
it's because I got off to too fast wave.
After every big tide that he surfs,
We talked with each other, then immediately.
Having that more parallel rail up there
will allow the board to work better on the basis of the wave,
We allow you paddle faster with more shoulder width apart
and have a wider tail will give you more maneuverability.
If they can trust me before entering the water,
it leaves them in the game.
JANUARY, 10
Forecast 3.9m in the 2nd Front Height 14.7 Estimated: 13m
The forecast looks very good,
probably the best of the year.
You think it's the size that Ian is looking for?
No, Ian is looking for as possible.
Just ... it looks like the tide is not yet here.
I do not know, the markers are simply not evident.
I think we'll just start now and get on with our plan
and go there at first light,
hoping to improve throughout the morning.
The best conditions so far.
The fact that the forecast you indicated light winds
aroused much interest of surfers around the world.
The concentration of people in the morning was lighter,
so you could position yourself and begin to align with the waves
the way I wanted, wherever he wanted to get them.
I think the board of a guy went right over me at the end of the tube.
And then, as more people arrive,
the place where it takes the waves is saying,
based on where you are stuck in the crowd.
You know, when you're turning, trying to paddle a giant wave,
and you have people on your left, and right,
positioning, calling ...
The press is there. There are helicopters flying everywhere,
drones buzzing in your head,
boats passing over each other, it's just chaos.
Surfed in Jaws for 15 years,
and I do not go there anymore because it's just a crazy zone.
It's not fun, it is very dangerous.
The last thing you want to do is hurt someone with the board.
It's when you make mistakes.
You know, you're surfing according to the crowd, not what you want.
When you have 50 people there, I'm definitely not at ease,
Ian, on the other hand, seems to be fine.
Let's take a second wave.
Stay with my brother in the water in Jaws is something that can not even explain.
It's probably one of the most special moments.
There is nothing that can not be, is the best feeling in the world.
On most days, we take turns, making the security of each other,
and this gives us all a chance to surf.
Only three or four very good sequences came today
in a period of eight to ten hours.
The weather and all things are here, but the tide not.
The waves are very small.
I'll be impressed if they really predict.
A large contribution to the evolution
the sport is actually security.
And the most notable is the inflatable clothing that we have developed.
I had the idea of ​​inflatable bathing suit
by a near-death experience at Mavericks.
December 2010
I was getting old, was married, having children,
just I felt it was too dangerous to be worth.
It was something that was necessary because the sport has reached a level
we were losing people.
You know, this was not acceptable.
When you fall, you pull a string,
the costume inflates and takes you to the surface.
You will not think:
"You know what? I'm sure because I have the costume."
You do not want to have that attitude.
What happens when you are in a situation where your active costume?
Or in a situation where its not active costume?
Then, because of the costume,
you have many more people who would not be there if it were not for him.
People in certain places, became unmanageable, so.
This is the paradox, for sure.
Saved lives, but somehow,
I feel that endangered the lives of people
that would not be there without the costume.
If you are surfing anywhere in the world,
You must have a security plan and a second reserve,
and another plan after that.
Most people think the costume is the security plan.
And they assume that the twins will rescue them.
It certainly was morally difficult at first,
when he started to get very full.
I could never live knowing
I was to be there working with this group,
which I consider my family,
and that something happened because I was not taking care of them,
She was caring for another person
that had nothing to do with our operation.
Do not think it's right to say what someone may or may not,
but when you cross that line of not following the security protocol,
like being able to take care of themselves first,
you kind of, you crossed the line
and you need to rethink what you're doing there.
If you look at the inflatable costume,
yes, it's a nightmare, on certain days, at certain waves ...
but the sport just became awesome because of it.
In the fifteenth, we had a tide that was expected to be
greater than anything we'd had throughout the winter,
maybe in my life.
So it is lining up to be a monumental day for rowed surfing.
Forecast 5.5 m 18.2 the 2nd Front Height Estimate: 22,5m
Beautiful setting.
15 JANUARY
Bring tow boards was part of the discussion,
but I am stubborn to try rowing.
I think we're all a little scared,
and kind of worried about how great it will be today,
but we expect it to be, somehow manageable.
Actually, I'm very nervous now,
by ter ali surfar.
I do not know, I have this strange feeling.
Certainly shaken. There is a day to show feelings ...
I'm a little out of control, for sure.
Greg was basically sick all the time.
He could not surf. So Greg ended up doing security.
It is very difficult to do well on a day like this.
You know how much waited for a day like this,
to get surfing.
All we seek, chasing big waves,
I was pointing to this day.
I had never seen Jaws break like that in my life.
Two hours will go.
Observe.
It's like you're rehearsing to pick up the pace,
because the wave moves very quickly
and there is plenty of water hitting the face.
A perfect example of "careful what you wish for."
Heating!
Shane, suba!
Shane.
Yes, Shane. It was amazing.
You got an amazing wave, right?
I just felt as if the ocean were under control.
It was not like a normal day, where you can
have fun, like, everyone was ...
Come on, come on.
Up, come on.
-Are you alright? -My neck.
-What? -My neck.
Here is Shaun Walsh.
DK has a possible cervical lesion.
I feel it a lot and my neck is screwed.
Take me with Shaun.
I could look into the eyes of all,
and say, "My God, this is what happened in Cortes."
It was the reverse situation.
DK was there, he saved Greg's life,
and now, Greg is doing what it can.
It was just all a bit surreal.
Like, my heart sank, you know?
I did not know how serious it was, or what was going on.
DK, you want to call the emergency?
I need an ambulance.
Do not call Mom.
No matter how good the waves are, that's the priority, no matter.
We took it with confidence.
The goal is simply to get you to a higher level of care.
When this happens, there is not much we can do.
Shaun, he and Luke, all trying to go with me,
but looking at how good the waves were, they wanted them to stay.
Once in a lifetime sea conditions are so.
We were out and it turned into
a very important day of my life.
Just took a wave in the face
and got no advantage for a while.
I saw him get into that wave,
and well when I saw him standing, I thought "He's too inside."
And you know, when you're there sometimes need to take the risk.
And he was standing the whole time down the wave.
I thought he'd jump.
You know what happened, and some of the surfer here today,
know, history was made, for sure.
Yes, today was amazing, but as soon as I caught that wave,
reality hit and all she could think was in DK.
Nothing was broken, nothing broken.
All examinations and resonances were good.
Now for the next month, I have to wear this neck brace,
and a half to rest for a while and wait for my body to recover.
It has been an intense Janeiro.
A week ago, we had one of the greatest days I've ever seen
with clean winds, in my whole life here.
I just felt that we would never see everything
happen again,
until we are very old, cheering on a cliff.
And then, a great system appeared in the middle of the Pacific,
and here we are.
28 JANUARY
Forecast 4.5 m in 20 seconds Front Height Estimated: 20m
Simply having another chance with conditions like this
It is ... kind of made me take a step back and appreciate a little more
by tides that we are having now.
I thought my winter had ended after leaving the hospital,
then I got high of doctors in Los Angeles.
He said that everything was in place.
I'm very grateful. I never thought this would happen.
It was horrible for him to not surf, but it is undoubtedly
the best guy on the jet ski, making security.
So I think on the whole, the group feels much more comfortable and confident,
only to have him in the water.
Sure, it's Greg.
Pay attention to Greg, boys. Pay attention.
I caught him.
Victory.
In this sport, you definitely want to see your friends do well.
For Greg, he took a wave a few years ago ...
October 2012
... it was the best pipe already caught in Jaws.
And as he passed through, he fell, flying out of the tube.
He called to stumble at the finish line.
You just see how much time and energy
They will in each of these waves are ridden
and how long it takes to get a day like this,
and it was very cool to see everything going right for Greg today.
He took a pipe and left. You could almost see
all the energy and work that were employed in that wave,
kind, coming out of it.
Good, Greg!
We Dorian surfing.
Part of what Jaws is, it's like,
you surf for six hours,
you can only have a good opportunity in a wave.
About four hours later, I got one of the best waves I've had there.
Everything finally fell into place.
Rather than focusing on the goal of surfing the biggest wave of his life,
It is further to step back
and enjoy all the little things
that led you there, and live these days.
The last El Nino was 1998.
There were only four El Niños of fact, in 40 years.
Best big waves I've seen.
I've been surfing big waves for 25 years.
Ian chose a path that really suits him.
I'm just blessed as a father.
Part of surfing is simply looking at what comes next.
It's true what they say.
The greater the adversity, the greater the achievement.
And for me, no matter the size of the waves,
or step into the unknown,
It is where I wanna be.