1 00:00:11,000 --> 00:00:20,000 Visit www.RFbet99.cc Trusted Safe Online Gambling Agent 2 00:00:00,001 --> 00:00:03,002 (running water) Bonus New Member 500 Thousand Cashback Parlay 10 Million 3 00:00:33,868 --> 00:00:36,668 (fine music) Sbobet Sportsbook roll 1.25% Maxbet Sportsbook rollout 1.5% 4 00:00:40,441 --> 00:00:43,308 - [Voiceover] 1936, army corps engineer Rollingan Live Casino Sbobet 338A 1% Rollingan Live Casino Maxbet 1.2% 5 00:00:43,310 --> 00:00:45,878 complete construction west dock BBM: 2ACAEFC6 LINE: RFBET99 6 00:00:45,880 --> 00:00:49,081 from the port of Newport Beach the entrance. Wechat: RFBET99 Whatsapp: +66944386003 7 00:00:49,083 --> 00:00:52,985 The point is to protect and protect but what is this stone grouping created 8 00:00:52,987 --> 00:00:55,320 9 00:00:55,322 --> 00:00:59,058 is something that is not human can be expected 10 00:01:06,934 --> 00:01:09,401 (rock music) 11 00:01:17,011 --> 00:01:19,812 (crashing waves) 12 00:01:21,749 --> 00:01:24,483 - Wedge in one word, psycho. 13 00:01:25,286 --> 00:01:29,521 (Entrance Song by The Black Angels) 14 00:01:41,702 --> 00:01:45,304 - The wave is a protruding, strange in nature. 15 00:01:45,306 --> 00:01:47,239 - Wedge has as much power as any wave 16 00:01:47,241 --> 00:01:48,574 I have been surfing in my life. 17 00:01:48,576 --> 00:01:51,043 - I will say the power of Hawaii is in the middle of Orange County. 18 00:01:51,045 --> 00:01:52,644 - And kill people and that break the neck 19 00:01:52,646 --> 00:01:54,246 and you go, shit. 20 00:01:54,248 --> 00:01:57,983 endingBending time feels fine 21 00:02:01,355 --> 00:02:04,089 Song anceErance 22 00:02:09,530 --> 00:02:11,196 anceEntrance song ¶ 23 00:02:11,198 --> 00:02:15,434 - This is the most famous body surf waves in the world, duh. 24 00:02:16,303 --> 00:02:18,504 - If you talk about this The Wedge's mysterious place 25 00:02:18,506 --> 00:02:19,404 You finally go there 26 00:02:19,406 --> 00:02:20,873 and that's just all hell breaking loose. 27 00:02:20,875 --> 00:02:23,942 - That is the place and indeed like the gladiator pit arena 28 00:02:23,944 --> 00:02:27,112 watching some of us beautiful like risking our lives. 29 00:02:27,114 --> 00:02:30,415 aca Read down quickly 75 30 00:02:31,585 --> 00:02:35,821 ¶ Walking like a knife ¶ 31 00:03:01,048 --> 00:03:03,549 - [Voiceover] Wave is The reason we are all there. 32 00:03:03,551 --> 00:03:07,786 That is no more than that from that, it is a wave. 33 00:03:08,722 --> 00:03:11,456 (heavy water) 34 00:03:29,643 --> 00:03:33,245 (soft, piano music) 35 00:03:33,247 --> 00:03:36,548 - [Voiceover] My name is Ron Romanosky. 36 00:03:37,384 --> 00:03:38,951 Some call me Romo. 37 00:03:44,525 --> 00:03:46,992 I am a former, photographer, 38 00:03:49,563 --> 00:03:53,765 one might, I don't know, three or four billion of them. 39 00:03:57,071 --> 00:04:01,206 And I'm helpless and Wedge addicts are unbearable 40 00:04:02,743 --> 00:04:05,644 (pencil scraping) 41 00:04:11,118 --> 00:04:12,618 Our story starts at Wedge, 42 00:04:12,620 --> 00:04:17,522 25 or more years after the construction of the dock is over 43 00:04:17,524 --> 00:04:21,193 There are already established groups of people on Wedge Fred Simpson and Roger Goodan is among them. 44 00:04:21,195 --> 00:04:24,296 (plucky, guitar music) 45 00:04:24,298 --> 00:04:27,633 - When I first went to Baji, 46 00:04:29,937 --> 00:04:31,970 This will be at the end of 50's, 47 00:04:31,972 --> 00:04:34,506 48 00:04:34,508 --> 00:04:36,241 there are no crowds 49 00:04:36,243 --> 00:04:38,176 There are no lifeguards. 50 00:04:38,178 --> 00:04:41,313 The maximum person will do it to three, four, five people. 51 00:04:41,315 --> 00:04:42,931 There are always enough waves. 52 00:04:42,932 --> 00:04:44,548 - When I first arrived at Wedge and the initial meeting 53 00:04:44,551 --> 00:04:46,618 different people have been driving it already, 54 00:04:46,620 --> 00:04:48,553 there is one man that I already know 55 00:04:48,555 --> 00:04:51,290 He is the first high School children swim faster 56 00:04:51,292 --> 00:04:52,858 of two minutes at 200. 57 00:04:52,860 --> 00:04:54,459 And he did it in ninth grade. 58 00:04:54,461 --> 00:04:56,828 - Wave physics in Wedge unique 59 00:04:56,830 --> 00:04:59,064 for several different reasons . 60 00:04:59,066 --> 00:05:01,933 First, what you have incoming waves 61 00:05:01,935 --> 00:05:02,934 from the south 62 00:05:02,936 --> 00:05:04,903 That's the bank against the dock 63 00:05:04,905 --> 00:05:06,738 and so you end up with a side wave 64 00:05:06,740 --> 00:05:09,074 supported by others waves. 65 00:05:09,076 --> 00:05:11,109 So you have two waves above each other. 66 00:05:11,111 --> 00:05:13,612 - It's basically double wave height 67 00:05:13,614 --> 00:05:17,349 and that's as big as that this beach 68 00:05:17,351 --> 00:05:19,685 - That is routinely all body surfers 69 00:05:19,687 --> 00:05:22,688 Surfboards are too long and is too heavy 70 00:05:22,690 --> 00:05:25,657 to be able to handle large surfing. 71 00:05:25,659 --> 00:05:29,127 And, to be able to experiment with different techniques, 72 00:05:29,129 --> 00:05:32,631 it's really extraordinary because we have lots 73 00:05:32,633 --> 00:05:33,799 riding 74 00:05:34,635 --> 00:05:38,870 That's very, kind of egalitarian, sweet environment. 75 00:05:40,274 --> 00:05:42,174 - [Voiceover] not magazines, no social media. 76 00:05:42,176 --> 00:05:46,244 People communicated telephone, land line telephone 77 00:05:50,517 --> 00:05:54,753 Early days at Wedge It's really a simple time. 78 00:06:10,504 --> 00:06:12,738 - [Voiceover] At the beginning of the 70s Danny Kwock 79 00:06:12,740 --> 00:06:15,874 I'm on the beach, I believe, but I don't believe He has never drank that water. 80 00:06:15,876 --> 00:06:18,443 - First experience in Wedge for me is 81 00:06:20,247 --> 00:06:22,781 I have moved from Gwaii, I've been like that always heard I t 82 00:06:22,783 --> 00:06:26,651 Because I grew up in a place by Sandy Beach. 83 00:06:26,653 --> 00:06:29,221 People there, 84 00:06:29,223 --> 00:06:30,655 85 00:06:30,657 --> 00:06:32,457 kind of people like Mark Orang cunningham 86 00:06:32,459 --> 00:06:34,326 it's like men surfer legend, 87 00:06:34,328 --> 00:06:36,862 they will always talk Wedge 88 00:06:36,864 --> 00:06:39,731 and this is famous place, even in Hawaii when you were little. 89 00:06:39,733 --> 00:06:43,101 Then I move California and we end 90 00:06:43,103 --> 00:06:45,103 on Newport Beach. 91 00:06:45,105 --> 00:06:46,338 Suddenly I know like, 92 00:06:46,340 --> 00:06:47,906 This is definitely where Wedge is, I thought, 93 00:06:47,908 --> 00:06:50,208 It's in Newport Beach, you know, I don't know where 94 00:06:50,210 --> 00:06:53,211 I mean, I don't know it is in my house 95 00:06:53,213 --> 00:06:54,846 I just started going down there and hanging out 96 00:06:54,848 --> 00:06:57,382 and that's pretty much, you know, 97 00:06:57,384 --> 00:06:58,750 at Wedge at that time. 98 00:06:58,752 --> 00:07:01,453 That is only a mixture of local children 99 00:07:01,455 --> 00:07:03,355 and there is Father. 100 00:07:03,357 --> 00:07:05,023 Then when I start growing up there, 101 00:07:05,025 --> 00:07:07,225 I realize why people don't go down, 102 00:07:07,227 --> 00:07:11,830 because beautiful Father Same as (muttering) out. 103 00:07:11,832 --> 00:07:14,733 (buzzing machine) 104 00:07:17,404 --> 00:07:19,204 - [Voiceover] Some time in the mid 70's, 105 00:07:19,206 --> 00:07:21,173 this group of people appeared, 106 00:07:21,175 --> 00:07:23,942 never seen them before, long-haired blonde, 107 00:07:23,944 --> 00:07:25,610 but they go well. 108 00:07:26,413 --> 00:07:31,149 They respect those people who were before them. 109 00:07:31,151 --> 00:07:35,220 This new group of people will do it become known as the Wedge crew. 110 00:07:35,222 --> 00:07:37,789 And Mel Thoman is the leader. 111 00:07:40,594 --> 00:07:43,395 - My first experience went down to Wedge 112 00:07:43,397 --> 00:07:45,630 I think I'm 14 or 15 years old. 113 00:07:46,800 --> 00:07:48,400 I think anyone who is down first 114 00:07:48,402 --> 00:07:50,402 think it will be great 115 00:07:50,404 --> 00:07:51,770 This is a Wedge, it will be big , 116 00:07:51,772 --> 00:07:53,338 You just heard the story. 117 00:07:53,340 --> 00:07:55,640 I got there and it felt like one feet. 118 00:07:55,642 --> 00:08:00,345 So, 60 miles one way, one foot, not too happy 119 00:08:00,881 --> 00:08:04,082 But, a few years later, it was 1975 120 00:08:04,084 --> 00:08:06,885 and June, solid in the south hemi, 121 00:08:06,887 --> 00:08:09,387 and that, it's a good size. 122 00:08:09,389 --> 00:08:12,023 And I remember standing on the beach for an hour and a half 123 00:08:12,025 --> 00:08:14,493 and I see those people that I can say they know 124 00:08:14,495 --> 00:08:16,761 what they do, they are brilliant. 125 00:08:16,763 --> 00:08:18,597 And I think I'm pretty good. 126 00:08:18,599 --> 00:08:22,767 And I go there and I go (laughs) I learned a lot. 127 00:08:22,769 --> 00:08:24,970 - there is this summer where Mel Thoman 128 00:08:24,972 --> 00:08:27,873 and Greg Deets and this people just came out 129 00:08:27,875 --> 00:08:30,909 from this cheesy van it's very terrible 130 00:08:30,911 --> 00:08:33,478 And at the same time, this other man is Terry Wade 131 00:08:33,480 --> 00:08:34,713 also there. 132 00:08:34,715 --> 00:08:36,381 We are children like, oh, who are these people? Yes you know, but then they start coming every day 133 00:08:36,383 --> 00:08:38,917 134 00:08:38,919 --> 00:08:41,620 and they will get there freaking HOURS 7:00 MORNING 135 00:08:41,622 --> 00:08:44,055 and they will leave at will seven o'clock at night. 136 00:08:44,057 --> 00:08:45,557 - We make this little pact 137 00:08:45,559 --> 00:08:47,559 and we are new people, young people 138 00:08:47,561 --> 00:08:50,395 - 77, that summer is years I really have to know 139 00:08:50,397 --> 00:08:52,631 These people are very good and we start gathering with 140 00:08:52,633 --> 00:08:54,799 and, no problem. 141 00:08:54,801 --> 00:08:56,334 Well, it's not found out I must say 142 00:08:56,336 --> 00:08:58,603 - For some reason, it is a very large group it will go there every day, 143 00:08:58,605 --> 00:09:01,106 are there waves or not 144 00:09:01,108 --> 00:09:03,074 This group is very united 145 00:09:03,076 --> 00:09:04,776 146 00:09:04,778 --> 00:09:07,178 and I think that's why is a Wedge crew. 147 00:09:07,180 --> 00:09:08,680 I don't know who created it phrase 148 00:09:08,682 --> 00:09:11,950 but it started in the 70s era 149 00:09:11,952 --> 00:09:13,985 where I enter 150 00:09:13,987 --> 00:09:17,122 (optimistic, rock music) 151 00:09:20,994 --> 00:09:23,795 (crashing waves) 152 00:09:27,568 --> 00:09:30,735 (optimistic, rock music) 153 00:09:32,606 --> 00:09:35,507 - You could say it is right away who is the player 154 00:09:35,509 --> 00:09:38,009 down at the Wedge and you just know to stay clear 155 00:09:38,011 --> 00:09:40,512 and only remain low. 156 00:09:40,513 --> 00:09:43,014 - Wedge people see themselves as a type of rebellion, 157 00:09:43,016 --> 00:09:45,650 not mainstream and they tell it because. 158 00:09:45,652 --> 00:09:47,719 - They have a lot of comics. 159 00:09:47,721 --> 00:09:49,287 They become locals. 160 00:09:49,289 --> 00:09:51,289 They are like jerks people 161 00:09:51,291 --> 00:09:52,724 which isn't from here 162 00:09:52,726 --> 00:09:54,192 - You have everyone in group, 163 00:09:54,194 --> 00:09:56,294 think in the same way. 164 00:09:56,296 --> 00:09:58,897 This is our wave and there is no one else who will screw it up for us. 165 00:09:58,899 --> 00:10:00,198 - There must be a local wedge crew and-- 166 00:10:00,199 --> 00:10:01,498 - [Voiceover] They don't like anyone who attacks their territory 167 00:10:01,501 --> 00:10:03,368 - They don't like it (laugh). 168 00:10:03,370 --> 00:10:05,020 - when I first go there, everyone, 169 00:10:05,021 --> 00:10:06,671 first aggressive. 170 00:10:06,673 --> 00:10:08,406 I mean, everyone has their bad ball outside. 171 00:10:08,408 --> 00:10:11,876 - For Wedge people, yes it's a little 172 00:10:11,878 --> 00:10:13,645 173 00:10:13,647 --> 00:10:16,982 from a different story because The wave is not just pleasure, 174 00:10:16,984 --> 00:10:20,619 It's about encouraging yourself to do it your limit 175 00:10:20,621 --> 00:10:23,755 (optimistic, rock music) 176 00:10:25,626 --> 00:10:28,259 - Wedge guys surfer body like polo coast guard, 177 00:10:28,261 --> 00:10:29,861 buff, stud dudes, you know 178 00:10:29,863 --> 00:10:32,697 So, they don't take nonsense from anyone. 179 00:10:32,699 --> 00:10:34,265 - You will get the standard warning, you know 180 00:10:34,267 --> 00:10:35,934 If you are an idiot and you cut you or something 181 00:10:35,936 --> 00:10:37,435 and they land on you, You will say, listen to men, 182 00:10:37,437 --> 00:10:38,837 Don't do that again 183 00:10:38,839 --> 00:10:40,071 And if they do it again, yeah, 184 00:10:40,073 --> 00:10:41,740 Sometimes we will follow it beach. 185 00:10:41,742 --> 00:10:42,574 - [Voiceover] Wedge Crew. 186 00:10:42,576 --> 00:10:43,408 - [Brunette] Wedge Crew. 187 00:10:43,410 --> 00:10:44,242 - [Blonde] Yeah 188 00:10:44,243 --> 00:10:45,075 - [Voiceover] We Wedge holes. 189 00:10:45,078 --> 00:10:46,278 - [Both] Yes. 190 00:10:46,279 --> 00:10:47,479 - [Voiceover] Will they kick our ass to be here 191 00:10:47,480 --> 00:10:48,680 - I know and it's funny because they come down with shorts 192 00:10:48,682 --> 00:10:50,649 initially and then suddenly humans, 193 00:10:50,651 --> 00:10:53,184 they just entered Speedos and we are all, 194 00:10:53,186 --> 00:10:54,185 who, you know 195 00:10:54,187 --> 00:10:55,387 - When you first drive, 196 00:10:55,389 --> 00:10:58,056 it's Speedos below rod, down to the water, 197 00:10:58,058 --> 00:11:00,291 drop the suitcase, ride your bike Speedos. 198 00:11:00,293 --> 00:11:02,927 And then, finally we say, oh. 199 00:11:02,929 --> 00:11:05,363 You know what, we the best people here 200 00:11:05,365 --> 00:11:06,431 We are always here 201 00:11:06,433 --> 00:11:08,967 so why don't we just wear them on the beach? 202 00:11:08,969 --> 00:11:10,769 Because we don't care. 203 00:11:10,771 --> 00:11:12,671 We don't care about anyone think of us 204 00:11:12,673 --> 00:11:14,506 - You know, that is their journey 205 00:11:14,508 --> 00:11:16,474 and they make fun of themselves. 206 00:11:16,476 --> 00:11:20,145 They make it funny to use Speedos. 207 00:11:20,147 --> 00:11:22,247 - And the only time I won't use Speeds, 208 00:11:22,249 --> 00:11:25,383 Romanaosky and I do a lot of Frisbee. 209 00:11:25,385 --> 00:11:28,119 He will say, Mel, no the way I throw Frisbee 210 00:11:28,121 --> 00:11:30,822 with you using Speedos 211 00:11:30,824 --> 00:11:33,091 - But it's funny, I think they won us all 212 00:11:33,093 --> 00:11:34,659 and their established type deals 213 00:11:34,661 --> 00:11:37,896 because they are free charismatic, you know 214 00:11:37,898 --> 00:11:40,765 Like, Mel is very funny and only really good 215 00:11:40,767 --> 00:11:43,601 with jabber jibber and guarding Father 216 00:11:43,603 --> 00:11:47,072 from upset he and made him laugh 217 00:11:47,074 --> 00:11:48,506 And he knows quickly, like, 218 00:11:48,508 --> 00:11:50,575 Father is that person gets a wave, you know 219 00:11:50,577 --> 00:11:53,812 - [Voiceover] Oh my God, it's big. 220 00:11:56,516 --> 00:11:58,817 Uh oh, Ron just tore it up. 221 00:12:00,454 --> 00:12:03,922 Well, he turns it on awesome 222 00:12:03,924 --> 00:12:07,492 (soft music and picking) 223 00:12:10,130 --> 00:12:11,996 (clapping) 224 00:12:11,998 --> 00:12:15,700 - [Voiceover] Even though Speedos, they are wave riders. 225 00:12:15,702 --> 00:12:17,168 They bring new energy Baji 226 00:12:17,170 --> 00:12:19,270 and energy on sand transferred 227 00:12:19,272 --> 00:12:21,573 directly to the water. 228 00:12:21,575 --> 00:12:25,443 They set the bar higher than before. 229 00:12:28,248 --> 00:12:29,781 - I think we keep going and go 230 00:12:29,783 --> 00:12:31,182 and more people Please enter 231 00:12:31,184 --> 00:12:33,084 and if they have the same spirit, 232 00:12:33,086 --> 00:12:34,586 They have that passion, love it. 233 00:12:34,588 --> 00:12:36,187 It feels like, let's go. 234 00:12:36,189 --> 00:12:39,023 You know, and you have it the same soul, the same heart, 235 00:12:39,025 --> 00:12:40,792 same love 236 00:12:40,793 --> 00:12:42,560 - The art of surfing the body and soulfulness 237 00:12:42,562 --> 00:12:44,863 Surfing the Body Wedge Crew is all about, 238 00:12:44,865 --> 00:12:46,698 even though they love their pleasure, 239 00:12:46,700 --> 00:12:49,200 They are puritan body surfers, you know. 240 00:12:49,202 --> 00:12:50,368 And they like the art form. 241 00:12:50,370 --> 00:12:54,305 - There is something special about being in that wave 242 00:12:54,307 --> 00:12:56,508 with nothing but your body. 243 00:12:56,510 --> 00:12:57,809 And, that's difficult. 244 00:12:57,811 --> 00:12:59,043 This is not easy. 245 00:12:59,846 --> 00:13:03,181 So, when you print up the body surfing, 246 00:13:03,984 --> 00:13:06,050 This is the greatest feeling in the world world 247 00:13:06,052 --> 00:13:08,820 because you are one with ocean. 248 00:13:08,822 --> 00:13:11,189 - There is no better way Riding the waves surfing the body. 249 00:13:11,191 --> 00:13:12,957 There is only something special about that 250 00:13:12,959 --> 00:13:15,360 that you can't beat it. 251 00:13:16,163 --> 00:13:19,097 - The body of surfing in the Wedge is really starting to peak with fame and people see body surfers 252 00:13:19,099 --> 00:13:22,367 because it's more than just that guy, 253 00:13:22,369 --> 00:13:24,202 oh, they don't know how to surf 254 00:13:24,204 --> 00:13:26,171 or body board or do anything. 255 00:13:26,173 --> 00:13:28,439 It's like, no, no, body surfing is like a full deal 256 00:13:28,441 --> 00:13:30,875 by itself 257 00:13:30,877 --> 00:13:31,843 - I always say the waves caught me there 258 00:13:31,845 --> 00:13:33,912 259 00:13:33,914 --> 00:13:35,213 and people hold me there 260 00:13:35,215 --> 00:13:37,482 Because here I go down there and that, 261 00:13:37,484 --> 00:13:39,017 Everyone surfing. 262 00:13:39,019 --> 00:13:42,453 Here it is, this is where I belong. 263 00:13:42,455 --> 00:13:45,523 (soft, pop music) 264 00:14:16,189 --> 00:14:17,722 - [Voiceover] Fun with Mel's crew, 265 00:14:17,724 --> 00:14:19,824 Shortly before the new harvest 266 00:14:19,826 --> 00:14:22,160 children begin to appear. 267 00:14:24,631 --> 00:14:26,297 These young people, indeed well, 268 00:14:26,299 --> 00:14:29,701 You know, show only extraordinary style 269 00:14:32,606 --> 00:14:35,006 - When it first appears, We are very scared of the crew 270 00:14:35,008 --> 00:14:37,942 and they are so unique individual groups. 271 00:14:37,944 --> 00:14:40,211 They are like that talent, style 272 00:14:40,213 --> 00:14:42,780 They use Speedos all kinds of colors. 273 00:14:42,782 --> 00:14:45,183 Are things in our waves unable to imagine. 274 00:14:45,185 --> 00:14:46,451 And we only admire them. 275 00:14:46,453 --> 00:14:49,387 - I will go there and Father will tell me to go, 276 00:14:49,389 --> 00:14:51,122 Jeff Stack will tell me leave. 277 00:14:51,124 --> 00:14:54,158 You know, Terry Wave, even Mel, comes out of here (grunts). 278 00:14:54,160 --> 00:14:55,560 That happens literally years. 279 00:14:55,562 --> 00:14:57,161 - You have to prove yourself. 280 00:14:57,163 --> 00:14:59,464 And to prove yourself means take off 281 00:14:59,466 --> 00:15:01,466 some bad and ugly things 282 00:15:01,468 --> 00:15:02,867 - [Voiceover] Uh - oh. 283 00:15:02,869 --> 00:15:05,069 Oh, wait a minute. 284 00:15:05,071 --> 00:15:06,404 Who is that? 285 00:15:06,406 --> 00:15:08,539 - And finally work alone up that little hierarchy 286 00:15:10,810 --> 00:15:12,911 And then finally appears everyone 287 00:15:12,913 --> 00:15:16,147 that you can handle it and become there. 288 00:15:16,149 --> 00:15:17,982 - [Voiceover] Panama Rick. 289 00:15:17,984 --> 00:15:19,717 Panama Rick is on the barrel. 290 00:15:21,721 --> 00:15:24,022 and that's just taking, it's It might take five years 291 00:15:24,024 --> 00:15:27,926 before we Semi-integrated into the crew. 292 00:15:29,378 --> 00:15:30,827 Phil, whatever you want say to people at home? 293 00:15:30,830 --> 00:15:32,730 - I think I have some goodness waves today 294 00:15:32,732 --> 00:15:35,433 - [Voiceover] I saw you ripped out there but - 295 00:15:35,435 --> 00:15:37,502 - Mel tries not to talk, I think I am going up well. 296 00:15:37,504 --> 00:15:39,203 - I think finally know you are in the crew 297 00:15:40,440 --> 00:15:42,407 And my nickname must be Panama Rick 298 00:15:42,409 --> 00:15:45,410 because my face is always red. 299 00:15:49,315 --> 00:15:51,349 I get the name that causes Panama My face looks like a fish. 300 00:15:51,351 --> 00:15:52,750 Mel, where did Mel come from? 301 00:15:52,752 --> 00:15:54,052 This is Kevin, Kevin Feldman. 302 00:15:54,054 --> 00:15:55,753 I don't know where Mel came from from. 303 00:16:00,193 --> 00:16:02,427 then that happens with a wave of magnitude riding 304 00:16:02,429 --> 00:16:05,129 - Sacks or bats wings because of their sack 305 00:16:05,131 --> 00:16:07,632 So big, he will stretch it out and do this at a party 306 00:16:07,634 --> 00:16:09,434 When he's drunk, it's true terrible 307 00:16:09,436 --> 00:16:10,568 - We have a nickname for Tom. 308 00:16:10,570 --> 00:16:12,236 He is a big man with red color hair 309 00:16:12,238 --> 00:16:13,771 and we call him Sasquatch. 310 00:16:13,773 --> 00:16:16,441 - That's actually Sasquatch from my high school friend 311 00:16:16,443 --> 00:16:20,044 and that is the Wedge crew members who say I believe 312 00:16:20,046 --> 00:16:22,413 that his friends call him Money box. 313 00:16:22,415 --> 00:16:25,316 - We will hear this, what do we think is Cashbox 314 00:16:25,318 --> 00:16:29,287 and we will call people with big donkeys, butt boxes. 315 00:16:29,289 --> 00:16:30,555 So, we think it's perfect. 316 00:16:30,557 --> 00:16:32,790 You know, big man, big ass (laughs). 317 00:16:32,792 --> 00:16:34,125 - I got the guy who came to me, they left, 318 00:16:34,127 --> 00:16:37,462 hey, cash, I don't know you have the real name Tom Kennedy. 319 00:16:37,464 --> 00:16:39,197 I go, I do. 320 00:16:39,199 --> 00:16:40,865 I am Tom Kennedy, Cashbox is mine nickname. 321 00:16:40,867 --> 00:16:44,836 But everyone in that matter the community is very engrossed, 322 00:16:45,972 --> 00:16:47,638 cool personality and That's exactly what is made 323 00:16:47,640 --> 00:16:49,574 What is the Wedge crew 324 00:16:49,576 --> 00:16:52,777 - Things we usually do crew, everything is fun. 325 00:16:52,779 --> 00:16:55,346 I mean, all of that Like, this is the most fun 326 00:16:55,348 --> 00:16:58,082 anyone who can have it is riding a Wedge. 327 00:16:58,084 --> 00:16:59,951 ¶Well I'm very tired 328 00:16:59,953 --> 00:17:02,186 ¶ Why don't you ¶ 329 00:17:02,188 --> 00:17:06,224 - Mel is like being the root of this group of people 330 00:17:06,226 --> 00:17:07,825 sort of come together. 331 00:17:07,827 --> 00:17:10,161 - Mel is the person you can tell 332 00:17:10,163 --> 00:17:12,563 like kind of mayor there right? 333 00:17:12,565 --> 00:17:14,265 You have Fred Simpson who is the president, 334 00:17:14,267 --> 00:17:17,568 You have Terry Wade who's Maybe it's all-star. 335 00:17:17,570 --> 00:17:19,103 Tom Kennedy is a comedian. 336 00:17:19,105 --> 00:17:21,506 And you have Mel, mayor. 337 00:17:21,508 --> 00:17:24,275 - [Voiceover] Mel Toman, for For example, having a BA from USC 338 00:17:24,277 --> 00:17:26,644 but he chose to stock grocery shelves at night 339 00:17:26,646 --> 00:17:29,947 so the waves have it all day long . 340 00:17:29,949 --> 00:17:32,283 He even records it every day wave reports for other people 341 00:17:32,285 --> 00:17:35,119 like Tom Kennedy, who runs an insurance agent 342 00:17:35,121 --> 00:17:37,822 but still calling Mel two or three times every day 343 00:17:37,824 --> 00:17:42,026 - He is the one who will do it bring it all (laughs). 344 00:17:42,028 --> 00:17:43,828 He will bring it all like a blow up toy 345 00:17:43,830 --> 00:17:46,898 with a dragon and anything down to the beach 346 00:17:46,900 --> 00:17:48,132 and ride the waves with them. 347 00:17:48,134 --> 00:17:49,734 I will only be like, really man, 348 00:17:49,736 --> 00:17:51,269 where did you come with this, do you know? 349 00:17:51,271 --> 00:17:54,705 - He has a different vision, I think of all of us. 350 00:17:54,707 --> 00:17:57,542 I think we are like waves, waves, waves, waves, waves, 351 00:17:57,544 --> 00:17:58,409 do you know? 352 00:17:58,411 --> 00:17:59,944 And in my opinion, Mel is a kind of smart . 353 00:17:59,946 --> 00:18:01,913 He is like waves, waves, waves, 354 00:18:01,915 --> 00:18:04,916 But let's do something special 355 00:18:04,918 --> 00:18:06,584 about waves, waves, waves, waves, waves 356 00:18:06,586 --> 00:18:09,887 So, he initiated this crazy thing every year, 357 00:18:09,889 --> 00:18:13,658 At the end of the year, Mel's tanning contest. 358 00:18:13,660 --> 00:18:15,359 - [Voiceover] Tanning The tournament is fair 359 00:18:15,361 --> 00:18:17,261 the most ridiculously Fun time you can get. 360 00:18:18,731 --> 00:18:21,332 It feels like an Academy Awards beach. 361 00:18:21,334 --> 00:18:22,667 - [Voiceover] Quarterback by Mel Thoman, 362 00:18:22,669 --> 00:18:23,868 he will buy trophies. 363 00:18:23,870 --> 00:18:25,636 - [Voiceover] what is it even you hope 364 00:18:25,638 --> 00:18:27,505 to win this year? 365 00:18:27,506 --> 00:18:29,373 - I am looking for, obviously, Look at farmers. 366 00:18:29,375 --> 00:18:30,875 - [Voiceover] Give us full frontal. 367 00:18:30,877 --> 00:18:31,909 - full frontal 368 00:18:31,911 --> 00:18:33,277 - [Voiceover] Yes. 369 00:18:33,278 --> 00:18:34,644 - [Voiceover] And, everyone will go to the beach 370 00:18:34,647 --> 00:18:36,280 and tan for a full day. 371 00:18:36,282 --> 00:18:39,717 I mean, this becomes an annual event in Newport Beach and that's good 372 00:18:39,719 --> 00:18:40,985 - [Voiceover] Dan Ivan, Ivan classics. 373 00:18:40,987 --> 00:18:42,386 Seeing this big, six feet, 300 pounds of men 374 00:18:42,388 --> 00:18:44,822 with a giant beer belly browned unexpectedly, 375 00:18:44,824 --> 00:18:47,191 pacing around them Speedo is quite funny. 376 00:18:47,193 --> 00:18:49,861 - Not about appearance How beautiful we are, 377 00:18:49,863 --> 00:18:53,097 that, we will have the farmer tan. 378 00:18:53,099 --> 00:18:55,032 379 00:18:55,034 --> 00:18:57,602 We have casper for him the whiteest person. 380 00:18:57,604 --> 00:18:59,937 We will have, just an award joke. 381 00:18:59,939 --> 00:19:01,038 - [Voiceover] Blonde hair, 382 00:19:01,040 --> 00:19:03,307 award lobster for the worst burn. 383 00:19:03,309 --> 00:19:04,976 You know, the best foot. 384 00:19:04,978 --> 00:19:07,745 For girls, we have the best diamonds. 385 00:19:07,747 --> 00:19:09,780 - [Voiceover] Top line, breast line (laugh). 386 00:19:09,782 --> 00:19:12,483 (beachgoers chattering) 387 00:19:12,485 --> 00:19:14,152 - We have several creative trophies. 388 00:19:14,154 --> 00:19:17,255 - We will come and (clap) and for the best dorsel 389 00:19:17,257 --> 00:19:18,923 and someone will get cup 390 00:19:18,925 --> 00:19:21,209 and everyone will applaud. 391 00:19:21,210 --> 00:19:23,494 - Sara, dressed best from (cheering drowning the speaker) 392 00:19:23,496 --> 00:19:26,164 (cheering and applause) 393 00:19:26,166 --> 00:19:28,332 - This is related to girls, this is related to being a person, 394 00:19:28,334 --> 00:19:30,101 it's related to different ages. 395 00:19:30,103 --> 00:19:33,337 You have existing guys back to like 40, you know 396 00:19:33,339 --> 00:19:35,173 And people like Dustin like 20 397 00:19:35,175 --> 00:19:38,442 and that's only, once again, it's only, 398 00:19:38,444 --> 00:19:41,779 he functions, I think, as a needle. 399 00:19:41,781 --> 00:19:44,182 This sews a lot of us together. 400 00:19:44,184 --> 00:19:46,083 - What's amazing that all of these people 401 00:19:46,085 --> 00:19:48,119 we want to be around all different 402 00:19:48,121 --> 00:19:50,054 and they will have this party. 403 00:19:50,056 --> 00:19:50,888 - [Voiceover] Malarchy. 404 00:19:50,890 --> 00:19:51,722 - [Voiceover] Easy. 405 00:19:51,724 --> 00:19:53,024 - [Voiceover] This is not my fault. 406 00:19:53,026 --> 00:19:55,726 - [Voiceover] Atta's son, Mel. 407 00:19:55,728 --> 00:19:57,962 - They are crazy and as youth, 408 00:19:57,964 --> 00:20:00,698 I like, you know, children in Almost Famous 409 00:20:00,700 --> 00:20:05,036 just watching this body surfing my hero 410 00:20:05,038 --> 00:20:07,205 and my guy is just right respected, you know 411 00:20:07,207 --> 00:20:09,040 - You want to be at a party causing them to show a movie. 412 00:20:09,042 --> 00:20:13,311 - Yes, that's special movies and slides, this - 413 00:20:13,313 --> 00:20:14,645 - You have to be crazy to go. 414 00:20:14,647 --> 00:20:15,730 (girl laugh) 415 00:20:15,731 --> 00:20:16,814 - [Voiceover] That doesn't sound it's too wild 416 00:20:16,816 --> 00:20:17,648 - This. 417 00:20:17,650 --> 00:20:19,072 - This. 418 00:20:19,073 --> 00:20:20,495 - Many people don't succeed home. 419 00:20:20,496 --> 00:20:21,918 - You know, this person is Dale Kovach will show the video. 420 00:20:21,921 --> 00:20:24,855 Mel will record videos for days of all rides 421 00:20:24,857 --> 00:20:26,324 and people will sit there at this party 422 00:20:26,326 --> 00:20:28,693 and only pounds of beer and criticism of each other. 423 00:20:28,695 --> 00:20:29,927 - Then the slide will appear 424 00:20:29,929 --> 00:20:32,129 and heckling will start and it's like, 425 00:20:32,131 --> 00:20:34,699 what goes up and how big it is 426 00:20:34,701 --> 00:20:36,367 and who claims the best waves. 427 00:20:36,369 --> 00:20:40,338 (people screaming and cheering) 428 00:20:43,476 --> 00:20:45,843 - Go to some Father's slideshow, 429 00:20:45,845 --> 00:20:49,847 I just urinated on my pants heckling 430 00:20:50,984 --> 00:20:54,919 and catcalling and nut galleries on those things. 431 00:20:54,921 --> 00:20:59,090 And, it's really neat to see guys become triggers 432 00:20:59,092 --> 00:21:00,458 and very passionate. 433 00:21:00,460 --> 00:21:02,693 - We watch them and people will exclaim 434 00:21:02,695 --> 00:21:04,095 and shout and everyone, you know, 435 00:21:04,097 --> 00:21:05,630 it only brings us together more. 436 00:21:05,631 --> 00:21:07,164 I don't know if anyone really studied the films. 437 00:21:07,166 --> 00:21:08,599 - We studied the film. 438 00:21:08,601 --> 00:21:10,601 We will borrow the video cassette from Mel 439 00:21:10,603 --> 00:21:12,770 and watch them above and above, me and young people, 440 00:21:12,772 --> 00:21:14,972 because we want a to rise like a parent 441 00:21:14,974 --> 00:21:16,307 and go up the best 442 00:21:16,309 --> 00:21:18,409 Because they really have the best style 443 00:21:18,411 --> 00:21:20,578 - [Voiceover] In the 60s, was originally, 444 00:21:20,580 --> 00:21:22,446 You have men without style. 445 00:21:22,448 --> 00:21:25,116 And the first summer without stopping, You see people riding the waves, 446 00:21:25,118 --> 00:21:27,485 or rather, get ready. 447 00:21:27,487 --> 00:21:29,854 But around the same time, surfing a blessed body 448 00:21:29,856 --> 00:21:32,156 with a man named Fred Simpson. 449 00:21:32,158 --> 00:21:34,358 He is the first to put it hands lead 450 00:21:34,360 --> 00:21:38,195 on the wave front and the other arm. 451 00:21:38,197 --> 00:21:40,831 He navigates the wave like a board will 452 00:21:40,833 --> 00:21:45,069 Then you go into the 70s, and a large group of people, 453 00:21:46,072 --> 00:21:49,173 where Terry Wade is a little in front of others 454 00:21:49,175 --> 00:21:51,042 - [Voiceover] We visit customers here 455 00:21:51,044 --> 00:21:53,210 - Hi, I'm Allen Hamill, what's your name? 456 00:21:53,212 --> 00:21:54,845 - Terry Wade 457 00:21:54,847 --> 00:21:57,148 - And Terry, do you shop here on Alpha Beta? 458 00:21:57,150 --> 00:21:57,982 - No, no. 459 00:21:57,984 --> 00:21:58,816 - What? 460 00:21:58,818 --> 00:21:59,650 - I don't shop 461 00:21:59,652 --> 00:22:00,484 - You don't shop at Alpha Beta? 462 00:22:00,486 --> 00:22:01,319 - No. 463 00:22:01,321 --> 00:22:02,987 - you-- 464 00:22:02,988 --> 00:22:04,654 - My first impression Terry is my first year 465 00:22:04,657 --> 00:22:08,059 to keep there my first real day 466 00:22:08,061 --> 00:22:10,795 Like, legit, 20, 25 feet a day. 467 00:22:10,797 --> 00:22:13,331 You will only see this red Speedo goes from the top 468 00:22:13,333 --> 00:22:16,634 get to the cylinder and That is the same person all the time. 469 00:22:16,636 --> 00:22:18,353 I say, who is that person? 470 00:22:18,354 --> 00:22:20,071 And, that's when I first heard the name Terry Wade 471 00:22:20,073 --> 00:22:21,839 And he is one of the best I've seen out there. 472 00:22:21,841 --> 00:22:24,241 - You know, it's important to know that there are many 473 00:22:24,243 --> 00:22:27,545 big wave riders in Wedge but Terry Wade, 474 00:22:27,547 --> 00:22:31,382 so far, not just taking off on the biggest wave 475 00:22:31,384 --> 00:22:34,285 ever in history surfing the body in general, 476 00:22:34,287 --> 00:22:36,554 But actually he drives the waves. 477 00:22:36,556 --> 00:22:40,524 And what I saw he did 1983 was the most amazing thing ever 478 00:22:40,526 --> 00:22:44,362 The biggest, biggest wave swells in history for me, 479 00:22:44,364 --> 00:22:48,766 You know, 40 years, and Terry drives the biggest waves. 480 00:22:48,768 --> 00:22:51,836 (cheerful, pop music) 481 00:23:03,750 --> 00:23:05,349 - I was there in 1983 when I saw him 482 00:23:05,351 --> 00:23:09,587 fill this set of monsters and I only see it 483 00:23:10,890 --> 00:23:13,324 and I go, I watch history. 484 00:23:13,326 --> 00:23:15,993 This is outside the graph. 485 00:23:15,995 --> 00:23:20,364 (sobbing) It's amazing. 486 00:23:20,366 --> 00:23:21,265 Sorry. 487 00:23:24,003 --> 00:23:28,406 Anyway, so I'm there and, sorry about that, 488 00:23:28,408 --> 00:23:31,375 But you know, he's very kind friend. 489 00:23:31,377 --> 00:23:35,613 And, you know, that's right It's hard to see what the Wedge is 490 00:23:35,615 --> 00:23:38,616 has been done to him as far as he life. 491 00:23:40,253 --> 00:23:42,086 It's kind of, you know, 492 00:23:42,989 --> 00:23:45,623 We joke around the destroyed Wedge my life 493 00:23:45,625 --> 00:23:49,527 But physically I think that really takes victims 494 00:23:50,830 --> 00:23:52,463 especially him. 495 00:23:54,934 --> 00:23:56,233 And that's sad. 496 00:23:58,438 --> 00:24:01,739 But Terry, you know, he's fair awesome 497 00:24:03,409 --> 00:24:06,977 (bright, picking music) 498 00:24:15,455 --> 00:24:18,155 - [Voiceover] Because a lot of and life-changing wounds 499 00:24:18,157 --> 00:24:22,393 suffering at Wedge, Terry Can no longer surf the body. 500 00:24:23,496 --> 00:24:27,731 He no longer lives in Newport Beach but in Taft, California. 501 00:24:28,501 --> 00:24:30,167 Three hours in the interior. 502 00:24:34,740 --> 00:24:37,208 - If you drive an old Wedge enough, you will get hurt 503 00:24:37,210 --> 00:24:40,010 There is no way to avoid that , it will happen 504 00:24:40,012 --> 00:24:42,179 - I have seen broken arms and broken necks as coast guard 505 00:24:42,181 --> 00:24:45,916 and you will have a dozen neck injuries every summer 506 00:24:45,918 --> 00:24:48,552 Of the dozen you have, there will be one or two 507 00:24:48,554 --> 00:24:50,454 it's serious where is permanently injured 508 00:24:50,456 --> 00:24:52,122 and it's always difficult Look. 509 00:24:52,124 --> 00:24:54,592 - One time in 1978, on a big day 510 00:24:54,594 --> 00:24:58,295 corpses are washed beside big D and me. 511 00:24:58,297 --> 00:25:01,866 We pull it in and they try to revive it 512 00:25:01,868 --> 00:25:03,834 But he, they say it dead 513 00:25:03,836 --> 00:25:05,636 in Hope a few hours later. 514 00:25:05,638 --> 00:25:07,972 - This is how many deaths I've seen in water. 515 00:25:07,974 --> 00:25:10,074 One, two, let's see, one two three four. 516 00:25:10,076 --> 00:25:12,209 Four people die. 517 00:25:12,211 --> 00:25:15,045 - There is a famous story from Wedge these women 518 00:25:15,047 --> 00:25:17,615 the down below burm line on big swell 519 00:25:17,617 --> 00:25:19,416 and coastguards don't do it go down and talk to them 520 00:25:19,418 --> 00:25:21,452 quite early 521 00:25:21,453 --> 00:25:23,487 They only play low and think that water 522 00:25:23,489 --> 00:25:24,989 will clean and get them wet ankle 523 00:25:24,991 --> 00:25:25,990 like an ordinary beach. 524 00:25:25,992 --> 00:25:27,791 Dan Wedge is not normal beach 525 00:25:27,793 --> 00:25:29,627 and they don't know the dangers they enter 526 00:25:29,629 --> 00:25:31,462 And the waves are swept and takes them from their feet 527 00:25:31,464 --> 00:25:33,497 and they leave. 528 00:25:33,499 --> 00:25:35,666 They just disappeared. 529 00:25:35,668 --> 00:25:38,335 - [Voiceover] Others May get stuck, he rolls over. 530 00:25:38,337 --> 00:25:41,005 Look at that, look out, see outside. 531 00:25:41,007 --> 00:25:44,375 You will be hit again. 532 00:25:44,377 --> 00:25:45,809 Seeing. 533 00:25:45,811 --> 00:25:47,912 (screaming woman) 534 00:25:47,914 --> 00:25:49,280 Oh jeez, take the coast guard. 535 00:25:49,282 --> 00:25:50,414 - [Voiceover] Better go. 536 00:25:50,416 --> 00:25:52,416 - [Voiceover] Holy Hell 537 00:25:52,418 --> 00:25:53,317 Oh damn it. 538 00:25:54,854 --> 00:25:56,020 Sucked out 539 00:25:56,022 --> 00:25:57,688 JT, how are you doing? 540 00:25:57,690 --> 00:25:59,023 - He-- 541 00:25:59,025 --> 00:25:59,874 - [Voiceover] Is he okay? 542 00:25:59,875 --> 00:26:00,724 - You know how difficult it is to do it Get him-- 543 00:26:00,726 --> 00:26:02,092 - [Voiceover] JT, savior. 544 00:26:02,094 --> 00:26:03,827 That's okay, we hope. 545 00:26:03,829 --> 00:26:07,565 His mother or anything that has a difficult time 546 00:26:07,567 --> 00:26:09,199 - [Voiceover] What makes Wedge very dangerous? 547 00:26:09,201 --> 00:26:12,036 - It's just the angle beach 548 00:26:12,038 --> 00:26:13,304 and the way it comes out. 549 00:26:13,306 --> 00:26:16,040 This is a steeper break and it goes into very shallow water 550 00:26:16,042 --> 00:26:19,109 Just go down from the top Rest can enter 551 00:26:19,111 --> 00:26:21,011 there is absolutely no water at all 552 00:26:21,013 --> 00:26:22,513 And if you don't know what you are doing, 553 00:26:22,515 --> 00:26:24,214 or even if you know what you are doing, 554 00:26:24,216 --> 00:26:26,650 Sometimes you fall, free fall, and press the bottom. 555 00:26:26,652 --> 00:26:29,453 (dramatic music) 556 00:26:33,526 --> 00:26:34,792 - [Voiceover] They generally use fin 557 00:26:34,794 --> 00:26:35,993 so they can get enough speed 558 00:26:35,995 --> 00:26:38,562 to lower it before they are thrown. 559 00:26:38,564 --> 00:26:40,331 And that's why we generally try to keep 560 00:26:40,333 --> 00:26:42,232 public inexperienced water 561 00:26:42,234 --> 00:26:46,503 to save them from possible life-threatening injuries 562 00:26:46,505 --> 00:26:47,871 - I have a collar fracture. 563 00:26:47,873 --> 00:26:50,274 Alhamdulillah, I don't have broken neck 564 00:26:50,276 --> 00:26:52,142 There are many things here. 565 00:26:52,144 --> 00:26:54,345 - I stop by around four foot waves 566 00:26:54,347 --> 00:26:57,214 and it's sucked and I'm in over 567 00:26:57,216 --> 00:26:59,283 and I immediately go down and hit my head at the bottom 568 00:26:59,285 --> 00:27:00,251 and break my neck 569 00:27:00,252 --> 00:27:01,218 - You have to be a little crazy though to get out of there when it's like this . 570 00:27:01,220 --> 00:27:02,653 - Of course 571 00:27:02,655 --> 00:27:03,788 - And the Pacific storm has an impact here 572 00:27:03,789 --> 00:27:04,922 stirring high waves and waves of monsters 573 00:27:04,924 --> 00:27:07,391 along the south coast. 574 00:27:07,393 --> 00:27:09,193 - My relationship with Wedge 575 00:27:09,195 --> 00:27:10,628 is, it's almost good like bi-polar almost. 576 00:27:10,630 --> 00:27:13,897 Like, one of those things where there is a hurry 577 00:27:13,899 --> 00:27:17,101 and high and stoke but There are fears like that 578 00:27:17,103 --> 00:27:20,838 579 00:27:21,641 --> 00:27:23,724 death from that 580 00:27:23,725 --> 00:27:25,808 Like, seriously, like, indeed just like one or the other 581 00:27:25,811 --> 00:27:28,445 and that's zero in between. 582 00:27:28,447 --> 00:27:31,215 So, stay there and hear the big waves 583 00:27:31,217 --> 00:27:33,517 All the time, I will be so pumped up 584 00:27:33,519 --> 00:27:34,918 but at the same time I will be like, 585 00:27:34,920 --> 00:27:38,322 tomorrow afternoon I die, You know, is my day drowning? 586 00:27:38,324 --> 00:27:40,024 - If there is a large south swell in California, 587 00:27:40,026 --> 00:27:42,726 guaranteed Wedge will be be a big place, you know 588 00:27:42,728 --> 00:27:46,797 And, that's the nature of animals the Wedge 589 00:27:46,799 --> 00:27:50,167 the dirt will drop on a big and heavy day. 590 00:27:50,169 --> 00:27:54,705 - Big days at the Wedge, there are so many things happening 591 00:27:54,707 --> 00:27:56,807 with that. 592 00:27:56,808 --> 00:27:58,908 You know, can't to sleep the night before 593 00:27:58,911 --> 00:28:00,844 and think about yourself will do 594 00:28:00,846 --> 00:28:03,514 and where you will put yourself. 595 00:28:03,516 --> 00:28:05,749 - [Voiceover] I will only be so nervous that I will almost vomit. 596 00:28:05,751 --> 00:28:07,251 I almost vomited at night before. 597 00:28:07,253 --> 00:28:09,053 I almost vomited in the morning. 598 00:28:09,055 --> 00:28:10,554 - Like, on a big day, not to be scared 599 00:28:10,556 --> 00:28:14,491 or have a little fear, you have to be a little crazy 600 00:28:14,493 --> 00:28:17,227 or actually really crazy. 601 00:28:17,229 --> 00:28:19,296 602 00:28:19,298 --> 00:28:20,964 - You want to survive, you don't want to die 603 00:28:20,966 --> 00:28:22,466 so you think about it. 604 00:28:22,467 --> 00:28:23,967 And you want to appear and so you think about it. 605 00:28:23,969 --> 00:28:25,803 But happy, you know, happy, you can't wait 606 00:28:25,805 --> 00:28:28,105 Because you want it, you want it too but you want to do it right. 607 00:28:28,107 --> 00:28:30,007 - Ride a big wave on the body of the Wedge surfing is the best thing you can do water. 608 00:28:30,009 --> 00:28:32,209 It's like jumping from a cliff and landing it. 609 00:28:32,211 --> 00:28:33,911 And what's big, big, what you usually see 610 00:28:33,913 --> 00:28:38,482 is the top of the roof. 611 00:28:39,185 --> 00:28:41,018 612 00:28:41,020 --> 00:28:42,586 613 00:28:42,588 --> 00:28:44,855 - I've heard it when Waves become very large 614 00:28:44,857 --> 00:28:47,858 You really can go to organize and look at houses 615 00:28:47,860 --> 00:28:50,060 go to the bay, pass the bay. 616 00:28:50,062 --> 00:28:51,562 Which I think is nonsense. 617 00:28:51,564 --> 00:28:55,399 And, swelling also occurs (muttering) 618 00:28:55,401 --> 00:28:58,702 and of course, I go more than one set and I can see 619 00:28:58,704 --> 00:29:00,204 over houses to the back bay 620 00:29:00,206 --> 00:29:01,772 and I like, you have to be kidding me 621 00:29:01,774 --> 00:29:03,173 - You like, here it is. 622 00:29:03,175 --> 00:29:04,842 Your legs cover your head 623 00:29:04,844 --> 00:29:07,311 and you are skinning, you are like, will I remain on the face 624 00:29:07,313 --> 00:29:09,113 or am I flying? 625 00:29:09,115 --> 00:29:11,515 And, you do everything You can navigate that 626 00:29:11,517 --> 00:29:13,317 but nothing else through your brain 627 00:29:13,319 --> 00:29:15,452 besides making me face down 628 00:29:15,454 --> 00:29:17,621 and I'm better off turning to me the bottom. 629 00:29:17,623 --> 00:29:19,590 And when you do it, you come, 630 00:29:19,592 --> 00:29:21,125 and you see interesting people barrel, 631 00:29:21,127 --> 00:29:22,326 it's just all smiles 632 00:29:22,328 --> 00:29:26,296 (people screaming and cheering) 633 00:29:26,298 --> 00:29:29,433 (optimistic, rock music) 634 00:29:34,473 --> 00:29:36,974 - The fact that waves are so close to the beach, 635 00:29:36,976 --> 00:29:40,444 You know, closeness, you get the crowd factor 636 00:29:40,446 --> 00:29:43,947 It doesn't matter if the crowd is there or not, 637 00:29:43,949 --> 00:29:45,549 we will still do what we do 638 00:29:45,551 --> 00:29:47,885 but of course lifting things 639 00:29:47,887 --> 00:29:51,288 and that only adds circus from all places 640 00:29:51,290 --> 00:29:53,791 it's only electricity 641 00:29:53,793 --> 00:29:56,126 - Lots of people on the beach, random, eclectic 642 00:29:56,128 --> 00:29:58,128 from all over the world, tourists, whatever, 643 00:29:58,130 --> 00:30:02,166 just watching and hoping and someone will eat crabs, 644 00:30:02,168 --> 00:30:04,201 break their neck, die 645 00:30:04,203 --> 00:30:06,470 It sounds like it sounds, people want it blood. 646 00:30:06,472 --> 00:30:07,638 - Let's straight up 647 00:30:07,640 --> 00:30:09,840 This is a scene. 648 00:30:09,841 --> 00:30:12,041 It's big, crazy, strong Wave breaks so close to the beach 649 00:30:12,044 --> 00:30:13,977 where is that so the audience friendly. 650 00:30:13,979 --> 00:30:15,412 - And you have water splatter. 651 00:30:15,414 --> 00:30:17,247 I mean like, water has entered people are out 652 00:30:17,249 --> 00:30:18,816 It's almost dangerous that people 653 00:30:18,818 --> 00:30:20,050 even standing so close. 654 00:30:20,052 --> 00:30:21,852 - I mean, what special place, you know. 655 00:30:21,854 --> 00:30:25,622 Every summer it's like equivalent 656 00:30:25,624 --> 00:30:27,157 to Super Bowl body surfing. 657 00:30:27,159 --> 00:30:28,926 All of these elements are united 658 00:30:28,928 --> 00:30:31,628 and you get some crazy out there 659 00:30:31,630 --> 00:30:34,064 Fill this massive wave. 660 00:30:34,066 --> 00:30:36,033 - Things that make So unique, Wedge, 661 00:30:36,035 --> 00:30:38,936 This is a man-made error. 662 00:30:38,938 --> 00:30:41,004 But for us, this is man-made blessing 663 00:30:41,006 --> 00:30:42,973 because we like it and we go out there 664 00:30:42,975 --> 00:30:44,541 and have the time of our lives. 665 00:30:44,543 --> 00:30:47,244 And, it makes us breathe, approximately. 666 00:30:47,246 --> 00:30:49,379 The fact that we can get out There and get our ass kicked 667 00:30:49,381 --> 00:30:53,183 and return to life himself and become humble 668 00:30:53,185 --> 00:30:54,985 and trigger and happy. 669 00:30:54,987 --> 00:30:59,923 So, this is specifically man-made world miracle 670 00:30:59,925 --> 00:31:03,327 (bright, pop music) 671 00:31:03,329 --> 00:31:07,231 (people screaming and cheering) 672 00:31:22,448 --> 00:31:25,349 (buzzing machine) 673 00:31:33,158 --> 00:31:34,658 - [Voiceover] You know, Wedge is our happy home 674 00:31:34,660 --> 00:31:35,726 for decades. 675 00:31:37,129 --> 00:31:38,428 Everyone is a friend. 676 00:31:38,430 --> 00:31:40,063 Everyone likes it. 677 00:31:41,500 --> 00:31:44,801 And then a small discovery comes along. 678 00:31:47,039 --> 00:31:49,506 "There is something really rolling around in the United States 679 00:31:49,508 --> 00:31:52,709 ¶The Morey Boogie Bodyboard is here to stay 680 00:31:52,711 --> 00:31:55,579 angkanWell your body in boogie 681 00:31:55,581 --> 00:31:56,780 rGrab Your Morey Boogie 682 00:31:56,782 --> 00:31:58,048 ¶Put your body in boogie 683 00:31:58,050 --> 00:31:59,516 an And you should buy a boogie 684 00:31:59,518 --> 00:32:02,252 an And you will surf today 685 00:32:02,254 --> 00:32:04,621 ¶ Boogie ¶ 686 00:32:04,623 --> 00:32:05,856 - We go down in the water one days 687 00:32:05,858 --> 00:32:08,525 and this goes down with us with this boogie board, 688 00:32:08,527 --> 00:32:10,127 this little little soft sponge looks for something. 689 00:32:10,129 --> 00:32:12,262 And he said, hi, my name is Tom. 690 00:32:12,264 --> 00:32:13,730 I want you to try this board out 691 00:32:13,732 --> 00:32:15,299 They must let you ride waves 692 00:32:15,301 --> 00:32:16,867 and get better rides and goods. 693 00:32:16,869 --> 00:32:19,903 And we looked at it and left, ah, okay, whatever. 694 00:32:19,905 --> 00:32:21,305 He left a few boards under it there 695 00:32:21,307 --> 00:32:23,907 and the next day is beautiful good size waves enter 696 00:32:23,909 --> 00:32:25,609 So, we start using boards and we will kick them 697 00:32:25,611 --> 00:32:27,144 and kick them and you will get Waves 698 00:32:27,146 --> 00:32:29,279 and you will start riding waves and then we will throw them. 699 00:32:29,281 --> 00:32:30,614 And we will throw them, we won't ride the boogie board 700 00:32:30,616 --> 00:32:31,848 We call them diving boards to take offs. 701 00:32:31,850 --> 00:32:33,383 So, you just leave it boogie board to get speed 702 00:32:33,385 --> 00:32:35,285 then go down and go up body waves and waves. 703 00:32:35,287 --> 00:32:37,587 But we don't know that There are photographers there 704 00:32:37,589 --> 00:32:41,758 try to get photos for selling products at that time 705 00:32:41,760 --> 00:32:44,428 and so, when we find there is a photographer, 706 00:32:44,430 --> 00:32:45,429 We never even use it. 707 00:32:45,431 --> 00:32:47,130 You know, we just stopped. 708 00:32:47,132 --> 00:32:49,433 But then Ramon someday, We have a good size. 709 00:32:49,435 --> 00:32:51,568 He takes off the wave and he Is a diving board taking off 710 00:32:51,570 --> 00:32:53,303 But they got the photo 711 00:32:53,305 --> 00:32:54,938 above is really good Peak wedge 712 00:32:54,940 --> 00:32:56,673 Well, that's in the back of the surfer magazine 713 00:32:56,675 --> 00:33:00,110 and that is the beginning of the final as far as it goes. 714 00:33:00,112 --> 00:33:02,546 - The problem is anyone can ride them 715 00:33:02,548 --> 00:33:04,281 That's very easy. 716 00:33:05,217 --> 00:33:07,918 And Father's quote about, can Put the body in boogie 717 00:33:07,920 --> 00:33:10,053 and that will make waves, You know, the type of agreement. 718 00:33:10,055 --> 00:33:13,123 This allows those people shouldn't be out there 719 00:33:13,125 --> 00:33:15,425 to get access to waves. 720 00:33:16,328 --> 00:33:17,594 - [Voiceover] Bodyboard starts to appear 721 00:33:17,596 --> 00:33:19,363 around the mid 80s. 722 00:33:19,365 --> 00:33:22,165 And, at that time not So many threats. 723 00:33:22,167 --> 00:33:25,202 There are only a handful of people who actually drive a place Ben Severson, JP Patterson, Mike Stewart. 724 00:33:25,204 --> 00:33:28,672 - I remember going there 725 00:33:29,942 --> 00:33:31,641 and don't really get most welcome vibration, surely 726 00:33:31,643 --> 00:33:34,878 This is understandable that they might not really be 727 00:33:34,880 --> 00:33:38,081 like me and what I did there 728 00:33:38,083 --> 00:33:41,318 But I think finally, I rather get some respect and I slowly work a little with me the way in 729 00:33:41,320 --> 00:33:43,920 with many of them. 730 00:33:43,922 --> 00:33:46,423 - But, when the photo starts hit the magazine 731 00:33:46,425 --> 00:33:47,924 and it develops, that's all explodes. 732 00:33:47,926 --> 00:33:51,728 733 00:33:51,730 --> 00:33:55,265 734 00:33:55,267 --> 00:33:56,466 - When changing is when, 735 00:33:56,468 --> 00:33:58,268 and not Mike or Pat, 736 00:33:58,270 --> 00:34:00,804 that is hoarding other people 737 00:34:00,806 --> 00:34:03,240 it cannot be controlled self. 738 00:34:03,242 --> 00:34:04,207 They brought it there 739 00:34:04,209 --> 00:34:06,043 and it turns into money makes place 740 00:34:06,045 --> 00:34:08,145 You will see people taking waves, run out, 741 00:34:08,147 --> 00:34:10,347 talking with photographers, running back. 742 00:34:10,349 --> 00:34:12,182 They don't care who they are cut 743 00:34:12,184 --> 00:34:15,152 and it's very diametrically opposed for what Wedge is all about. 744 00:34:15,154 --> 00:34:17,187 It is a dichotomy that is not work. 745 00:34:17,189 --> 00:34:18,755 - When bodyboarding magazine comes out 746 00:34:18,757 --> 00:34:20,957 and start creating profiles Wedge, of course, 747 00:34:20,959 --> 00:34:23,727 748 00:34:23,729 --> 00:34:27,431 and these people, and suddenly It's like a sluice 749 00:34:27,433 --> 00:34:29,399 open and there will be more and more of them. 750 00:34:29,401 --> 00:34:32,335 And, they grow exponentially like amoeba or something, just crazy 751 00:34:32,337 --> 00:34:34,204 - [Voiceover] Is that a boogie? 752 00:34:34,206 --> 00:34:35,872 I'm not shooting boogies. 753 00:34:35,874 --> 00:34:37,240 Oh, shit, that boogie again. 754 00:34:37,242 --> 00:34:39,376 - [Voiceover] Oh Go, not boog. 755 00:34:39,378 --> 00:34:40,944 I just squeaked from them photo frame, Ron. 756 00:34:40,946 --> 00:34:42,412 - Back in the early days, body surfers and knee riders because there there is no boogie board yet, 757 00:34:42,414 --> 00:34:46,349 always hanging out 758 00:34:46,351 --> 00:34:48,251 - If you know who you are deeds, 759 00:34:48,253 --> 00:34:49,319 760 00:34:49,321 --> 00:34:50,754 761 00:34:50,756 --> 00:34:51,922 You can let them ride with ya and you can ride your knees and they will rise behind 762 00:34:51,924 --> 00:34:53,523 and you can still go up waves, you two 763 00:34:53,525 --> 00:34:55,058 But the crowd of boogie boards is clearly not polite 764 00:34:55,060 --> 00:34:58,061 and that's just the whole a different crowd. 765 00:34:58,063 --> 00:35:01,064 - What really is a big problem? crew 766 00:35:01,066 --> 00:35:03,733 is that they are not the most complete water man riding the board mostly time. 767 00:35:03,735 --> 00:35:06,269 There are only a few that are good . 768 00:35:06,271 --> 00:35:08,205 The rest is sucked. 769 00:35:08,207 --> 00:35:09,940 - Something special is happening losing. 770 00:35:09,942 --> 00:35:10,841 Inheritance, way live with water 771 00:35:10,843 --> 00:35:13,043 772 00:35:13,045 --> 00:35:16,313 773 00:35:16,315 --> 00:35:19,850 and body surfing isn't It's not like other sports. 774 00:35:19,852 --> 00:35:22,052 And when people come to your house home 775 00:35:22,054 --> 00:35:24,988 and knock on your door and say, 776 00:35:24,990 --> 00:35:27,524 oh, by the way, we moved and I brought 777 00:35:27,526 --> 00:35:31,394 500 of my closest friends, things won't work well. 778 00:35:31,396 --> 00:35:33,930 (people scream) 779 00:35:33,932 --> 00:35:34,865 - [Voiceover] Altercation. 780 00:35:34,867 --> 00:35:37,667 (people chattering) 781 00:35:37,669 --> 00:35:40,187 - There will be a full fight, 782 00:35:40,188 --> 00:35:42,706 like Romo the backhand people seriously come out there 783 00:35:42,708 --> 00:35:44,875 because they will be impolite 784 00:35:44,877 --> 00:35:46,943 Same as, bro, there are rules, 785 00:35:46,945 --> 00:35:51,481 there is a pecking order Here, there is respect. 786 00:35:51,483 --> 00:35:53,049 And if you are cool with that then we are cool with you 787 00:35:53,051 --> 00:35:56,086 but if you cross that line or you enter and wave the pig, 788 00:35:56,088 --> 00:35:58,855 You know, just that boy one m. 789 00:35:58,857 --> 00:36:02,025 And like Father like king that person 790 00:36:02,027 --> 00:36:03,693 and he will send people in 791 00:36:03,695 --> 00:36:06,630 I mean, he entered it them. 792 00:36:06,632 --> 00:36:08,198 - Remember Romanosky always, 793 00:36:08,200 --> 00:36:10,167 He is always a tough man. 794 00:36:10,169 --> 00:36:12,369 I remember that one day was pretty classic 795 00:36:12,371 --> 00:36:14,771 I can laugh at it now but humans, I want to be fair, 796 00:36:14,773 --> 00:36:17,507 I came really close to only attacking him 797 00:36:17,509 --> 00:36:20,777 And, I'm all triggered, I have this new board , you know 798 00:36:20,779 --> 00:36:22,546 I'm like, oh yeah, I just got a new board 799 00:36:22,548 --> 00:36:25,248 And, I row there and he all, 800 00:36:25,250 --> 00:36:27,884 oh, so cool, I have see. 801 00:36:27,886 --> 00:36:30,921 So, I showed him thought he would look around 802 00:36:30,923 --> 00:36:32,923 To be precise, he forms knee board and the item, 803 00:36:32,925 --> 00:36:34,257 he will get it. 804 00:36:34,259 --> 00:36:36,860 So he grabbed it, look at that , put it on his head 805 00:36:36,862 --> 00:36:39,596 and just fold it above his head. 806 00:36:40,599 --> 00:36:44,334 - [Voiceover] But anyway, a boogie invasion occurs. 807 00:36:44,336 --> 00:36:45,886 And those people said 808 00:36:45,887 --> 00:36:47,437 that they have to do something about that. 809 00:36:47,439 --> 00:36:49,539 Mel Thoman, Terry Wade, and Tom Kennedy 810 00:36:49,541 --> 00:36:53,376 establish a Wedge Community Preservation, or WPS. 811 00:36:53,378 --> 00:36:55,946 - About three months ago, Wedge Preservation Society, 812 00:36:55,948 --> 00:36:58,448 a group of body surfers approach the sea department. 813 00:36:58,450 --> 00:37:00,183 - We go to lifeguards and said hey, 814 00:37:00,185 --> 00:37:03,553 is there anything we can do? somehow, you know, 815 00:37:03,555 --> 00:37:05,722 get this changed 816 00:37:05,724 --> 00:37:08,592 And, so we have an (muttering) process 817 00:37:08,594 --> 00:37:10,327 You must go see the sea department, 818 00:37:10,329 --> 00:37:12,162 lifeguard department, only a large number of things. 819 00:37:12,164 --> 00:37:15,198 - And indeed, the Wedge is set 820 00:37:15,200 --> 00:37:18,568 without flotation from At nine in the morning 821 00:37:18,570 --> 00:37:21,338 for more, five o'clock in the afternoon but from months the first May to 31 October. 822 00:37:21,340 --> 00:37:24,841 - this is out paper and suddenly, 823 00:37:24,843 --> 00:37:26,843 It's like, friends like Bill Sharp 824 00:37:26,845 --> 00:37:29,212 which is one of the knees the riders are there 825 00:37:29,214 --> 00:37:31,114 All the time, he gets Wind, they are not happy. 826 00:37:31,116 --> 00:37:33,850 - I find myself, as a knee dormitory, 827 00:37:33,852 --> 00:37:36,553 just wait, I was swept out outside 828 00:37:36,555 --> 00:37:38,588 with the rest garbage and do what I can 829 00:37:38,590 --> 00:37:41,157 to refute it. 830 00:37:41,159 --> 00:37:43,026 - That is a fun time for our , together as one. 831 00:37:43,028 --> 00:37:45,462 832 00:37:45,464 --> 00:37:46,930 Saying, we need to do something about this 833 00:37:46,932 --> 00:37:49,866 or, literally, the surface of the body will go for one 834 00:37:49,868 --> 00:37:52,269 and two, people will get hurt. 835 00:37:52,271 --> 00:37:54,404 - We get support from other organizations 836 00:37:54,406 --> 00:37:56,539 We take our argument to the city Council. 837 00:37:56,541 --> 00:37:57,707 - Hi, how? 838 00:37:57,709 --> 00:37:59,643 I'm Terry Wade and I co-founder 839 00:37:59,645 --> 00:38:01,311 Wedge Preservation Society. 840 00:38:01,313 --> 00:38:04,781 Body surfers are really not a minority in Wedge. 841 00:38:04,783 --> 00:38:07,350 Minorities in the world surfing, of course 842 00:38:07,352 --> 00:38:09,152 But at Wedge, body surfer, 843 00:38:09,154 --> 00:38:12,155 This may be the last fortress surfing the body 844 00:38:12,157 --> 00:38:15,525 and the fact, historically is the only beach in the world 845 00:38:15,527 --> 00:38:18,695 which makes a name for itself As a body surfing beach. 846 00:38:18,697 --> 00:38:21,097 Undoubtedly it is the best wave in the world to surf the body. 847 00:38:21,099 --> 00:38:22,599 And that's why we are here. 848 00:38:22,601 --> 00:38:23,633 - We are all dressed, suits, ties. 849 00:38:23,635 --> 00:38:25,468 - My name is Philip Castillo and Me too 850 00:38:25,470 --> 00:38:27,504 Pro-Wedge Community Conservation. 851 00:38:27,506 --> 00:38:30,840 - This is a security issue. 852 00:38:30,842 --> 00:38:32,242 You know, the more boards. 853 00:38:32,244 --> 00:38:35,211 It's more and more boards. 854 00:38:35,213 --> 00:38:36,713 - Mayhem in waves, more than one person 855 00:38:36,715 --> 00:38:38,381 they all come dressed in relaxing beaches 856 00:38:40,152 --> 00:38:42,652 857 00:38:42,654 --> 00:38:45,722 and the whole crew, we styling. 858 00:38:47,292 --> 00:38:49,826 So, we present our case and you know, 859 00:38:49,828 --> 00:38:51,628 Newport Beach, they love us (laughs). 860 00:38:51,630 --> 00:38:54,397 - At the final decision, The place is crowded. 861 00:38:54,399 --> 00:38:56,533 I mean, maybe there are five to six hundred 862 00:38:56,535 --> 00:38:58,802 traffic to this place, only standing space 863 00:38:58,804 --> 00:39:00,303 - Let me go back to the board 864 00:39:00,305 --> 00:39:03,039 and see if we can't come with the decision here 865 00:39:03,041 --> 00:39:04,941 it will make everyone go from here smiling 866 00:39:04,943 --> 00:39:07,477 and happy and maybe hit surfing. 867 00:39:07,479 --> 00:39:11,614 - And, finally it ends where three has chosen yay 868 00:39:11,616 --> 00:39:13,683 and three have chosen nay. 869 00:39:13,685 --> 00:39:15,519 - [Voiceover] Mr. Cox? 870 00:39:15,520 --> 00:39:17,354 - I will only comment on that I will not support the movement. 871 00:39:17,356 --> 00:39:20,256 (applause) 872 00:39:20,258 --> 00:39:24,227 - And to this end city council member, a woman, 873 00:39:27,799 --> 00:39:31,468 Maybe 70, have lived in Balboa a long time ago. 874 00:39:31,470 --> 00:39:35,004 And, everything is quiet and everyone is waiting for it response 875 00:39:35,006 --> 00:39:36,706 and he said - 876 00:39:36,707 --> 00:39:38,407 - Well, last night my husband happened to be quite young, 877 00:39:38,410 --> 00:39:41,044 considers himself still a body surfer and my child, 878 00:39:41,046 --> 00:39:43,213 Of course, have a board. 879 00:39:43,215 --> 00:39:45,949 And he (laughs) real conflict. 880 00:39:45,951 --> 00:39:48,551 And, we end up with something very similar 881 00:39:48,553 --> 00:39:51,621 for what (muttering) tonight's motion 882 00:39:51,623 --> 00:39:52,922 and I will support it. 883 00:39:52,924 --> 00:39:55,425 (cheering and applause) 884 00:39:55,427 --> 00:39:57,060 - All hell is released. 885 00:39:57,062 --> 00:40:00,397 We all stand, starting celebrating, hugging, 886 00:40:00,399 --> 00:40:02,399 and there is a giant parade 887 00:40:02,401 --> 00:40:04,401 that's right the way to Malarky's. 888 00:40:04,403 --> 00:40:07,470 (bright, pop music) 889 00:40:14,212 --> 00:40:15,745 - I don't think anyone actually realized 890 00:40:15,747 --> 00:40:17,447 what they stand for until they go there 891 00:40:17,449 --> 00:40:19,449 in summer and you will out and flag the black ball 892 00:40:19,451 --> 00:40:21,151 will appear at 10 hours and all guys 893 00:40:21,153 --> 00:40:22,051 will come out of the water 894 00:40:22,053 --> 00:40:23,720 and you will only go, oh, yes. 895 00:40:23,722 --> 00:40:24,654 - [Voiceover] Boogie dormitory 896 00:40:24,656 --> 00:40:26,556 can smell their styrofoam Goodbye. 897 00:40:26,558 --> 00:40:29,025 Start immediately, knee board, skim board, 898 00:40:29,027 --> 00:40:32,429 and body boards must remain on dry land from 10 to five 899 00:40:32,431 --> 00:40:34,330 May to October. 900 00:40:34,332 --> 00:40:35,865 - Well, as soon as they install a new rule in 901 00:40:35,867 --> 00:40:38,935 Looks like I lost a friend summer. 902 00:40:38,937 --> 00:40:42,872 I mean, you can't go down there and kneel again. 903 00:40:42,874 --> 00:40:44,040 You can go there and body surfing 904 00:40:44,042 --> 00:40:46,242 but that's not my job, I'm a knee rider. 905 00:40:46,244 --> 00:40:47,610 - There will be so many days where 906 00:40:47,612 --> 00:40:49,212 when they first start blackballing, 907 00:40:49,214 --> 00:40:52,415 I remember sitting in a chair Beach like, really, 908 00:40:52,417 --> 00:40:54,984 like and I'm just going to like seeing Mel and Terry 909 00:40:54,986 --> 00:40:58,087 and everyone like that (laugh). 910 00:40:58,089 --> 00:41:00,723 You know, and just laughing it up, get so many waves. 911 00:41:00,725 --> 00:41:01,925 But I turned it on for them. 912 00:41:01,927 --> 00:41:03,393 And then, but you know what's cool about that 913 00:41:03,395 --> 00:41:05,428 is when blackball comes, 914 00:41:05,430 --> 00:41:07,397 My body is surfing more, You know, I'm out 915 00:41:07,399 --> 00:41:09,098 Because I like riding a Wedge. 916 00:41:09,100 --> 00:41:10,867 - I told the other Box days, I said, you know, 917 00:41:10,869 --> 00:41:14,504 if there is something like that cool inheritance 918 00:41:14,506 --> 00:41:16,206 We work with our tails. 919 00:41:16,208 --> 00:41:18,808 We do it the right way and it works, thank God. 920 00:41:18,810 --> 00:41:20,510 I mean, serious, because boogies, 921 00:41:20,512 --> 00:41:22,378 I will not go up there. 922 00:41:22,380 --> 00:41:24,214 Boom, it must be over. 923 00:41:24,216 --> 00:41:26,049 - [Voiceover] Lifeguards believe they will bring boys 924 00:41:26,051 --> 00:41:28,418 from summer a few weeks to catch in. 925 00:41:28,420 --> 00:41:30,253 - So far the Wedge has become only beach 926 00:41:30,255 --> 00:41:33,056 to have a rigid separation between surfers 927 00:41:33,058 --> 00:41:35,158 with the board and without them. 928 00:41:35,160 --> 00:41:37,794 (buzzing machine) 929 00:41:37,796 --> 00:41:39,395 - [Voiceover] Here I am knees lodgers 930 00:41:39,397 --> 00:41:41,130 and I'm stunned from my mind 931 00:41:41,132 --> 00:41:43,066 that people get black balls. 932 00:41:43,068 --> 00:41:45,235 Wedge was pioneered as a wave surfing body 933 00:41:45,237 --> 00:41:49,472 and the city council helps to protect that culture. 934 00:41:51,042 --> 00:41:52,742 But waiting on that road, 935 00:41:52,744 --> 00:41:56,946 people don't really count on that we know over time. 936 00:42:00,552 --> 00:42:02,719 - When a black ball occurs '93, 937 00:42:02,721 --> 00:42:04,521 we all hope that it will happen be a kind of resurrection 938 00:42:04,523 --> 00:42:06,856 in the body of surfing but I think It hits at the right time 939 00:42:06,858 --> 00:42:08,625 when many people are aging 940 00:42:08,627 --> 00:42:10,393 and start a family. 941 00:42:10,395 --> 00:42:12,562 And, they think they will do it it's time to get out there 942 00:42:12,564 --> 00:42:14,097 and take advantage of the freedom they have now 943 00:42:14,099 --> 00:42:16,132 without bodyboarder out there. 944 00:42:16,134 --> 00:42:18,001 And, in fact, it really doesn't happen. 945 00:42:18,003 --> 00:42:21,271 - After our generation starts getting older 946 00:42:21,273 --> 00:42:23,606 and have children and family and many people move, 947 00:42:23,608 --> 00:42:25,742 financially I guess guys can't just take off for summer 948 00:42:25,744 --> 00:42:27,110 and screw again. 949 00:42:27,112 --> 00:42:29,245 Yes know, it happened when you got a mortgage and children 950 00:42:29,247 --> 00:42:31,014 and payment of cars and so on goods. 951 00:42:31,016 --> 00:42:34,217 - Personally, I'm still single longer than most guys. 952 00:42:34,219 --> 00:42:36,419 I am 42 years old, almost 43 years old. 953 00:42:36,988 --> 00:42:40,723 So, I have a good 25 years of non-stop waves, 954 00:42:43,261 --> 00:42:47,630 woman, whiskey, you know (laugh). 955 00:42:47,632 --> 00:42:50,800 (optimistic, folk music) 956 00:43:03,515 --> 00:43:05,214 - When you are young, you go under wave, 957 00:43:05,216 --> 00:43:06,349 This is the big set that entered 958 00:43:06,351 --> 00:43:08,785 You will be under waves and you pray to God 959 00:43:08,787 --> 00:43:10,353 that there is a bigger wave. 960 00:43:10,355 --> 00:43:11,955 I need this to be bigger. 961 00:43:11,957 --> 00:43:13,089 Take it, take it, bring it. 962 00:43:13,091 --> 00:43:15,124 - [Voiceover] Tom Kennedy, perfect day 963 00:43:15,126 --> 00:43:17,227 at Wedge? 964 00:43:17,228 --> 00:43:19,329 - Well, there are lots of girls on the beach (laughs). 965 00:43:19,331 --> 00:43:20,463 - [Voiceover] (laugh) scenery. 966 00:43:20,465 --> 00:43:23,733 - And, I like big waves Of course. 967 00:43:23,735 --> 00:43:27,036 As you get older and you become more wise, 968 00:43:27,038 --> 00:43:29,038 You expect nothing bigger waves. 969 00:43:29,040 --> 00:43:31,941 - Having a family and four my boys will only blink 970 00:43:31,943 --> 00:43:34,077 every time I'm out there when I take a few poundings, 971 00:43:34,079 --> 00:43:35,144 You know 972 00:43:35,146 --> 00:43:36,879 This can be the last, yes, I know, and I like it, 973 00:43:36,881 --> 00:43:39,449 I want to see my children graduate from high school 974 00:43:39,451 --> 00:43:41,150 or get married one day, yeah, 975 00:43:41,152 --> 00:43:42,685 Things start running through my mind 976 00:43:42,687 --> 00:43:45,121 and like athletes know when to go 977 00:43:45,123 --> 00:43:47,857 from their profession or they objects. 978 00:43:47,859 --> 00:43:50,793 (people chattering) 979 00:43:50,795 --> 00:43:52,762 - you have to wash you hands off in the water. 980 00:43:52,764 --> 00:43:56,132 - [Voiceover] Dale goes from vibration distribution 981 00:43:56,134 --> 00:44:00,103 to share goldfish (laugh). 982 00:44:00,105 --> 00:44:03,006 (children chat) 983 00:44:07,679 --> 00:44:10,279 - Yes, you know, there is someone who runs out Kru Wedge 984 00:44:10,281 --> 00:44:12,982 and that's very sad because you don't want to see 985 00:44:12,984 --> 00:44:15,184 division or you don't want to see people move 986 00:44:15,186 --> 00:44:16,953 with their lives 987 00:44:16,954 --> 00:44:18,721 You want to see people still appearing every day 988 00:44:18,723 --> 00:44:21,858 - There was that period, that was 15 to 20 years ago 989 00:44:21,860 --> 00:44:25,028 because of all skimming enter and sponging, 990 00:44:25,030 --> 00:44:27,130 Surfing comes out 991 00:44:27,132 --> 00:44:30,533 and no younger guy do it. 992 00:44:30,535 --> 00:44:33,536 And, some of us worry about surfing the body 993 00:44:33,538 --> 00:44:35,338 actually will die in Wedge. 994 00:44:35,340 --> 00:44:39,709 - With '89 being my year started my Wedge body surfing and become part of groups. 995 00:44:39,711 --> 00:44:42,512 - [Voiceover] Boat, boaty. 996 00:44:42,514 --> 00:44:45,148 Oh where did he go? 997 00:44:47,419 --> 00:44:49,185 - But I remember showing up on beach 998 00:44:49,187 --> 00:44:51,788 and there is no person I know already exists 999 00:44:51,790 --> 00:44:54,957 They all leave. 1000 00:44:54,959 --> 00:44:56,192 I was on the beach by myself for days, 1001 00:44:56,194 --> 00:44:59,328 driving the waves by yourself with people I don't know 1002 00:44:59,330 --> 00:45:01,998 who they are 1003 00:45:02,000 --> 00:45:03,266 1004 00:45:03,267 --> 00:45:04,533 And, glory The Wedge crew sounds 1005 00:45:04,536 --> 00:45:07,236 on the side of the road with The appearance of a boogie board. 1006 00:45:07,238 --> 00:45:08,471 That's all. 1007 00:45:08,473 --> 00:45:11,407 - The idea of a crew is, and riding a Wedge 1008 00:45:11,409 --> 00:45:14,777 put together from the most unexpected place 1009 00:45:14,779 --> 00:45:17,246 Some riders from Wedge and that's really shocking 1010 00:45:17,248 --> 00:45:19,382 If you look back and think, you know, 1011 00:45:19,384 --> 00:45:20,483 some people like Gene. 1012 00:45:20,485 --> 00:45:22,618 - The first time I started Wedge, 1013 00:45:22,620 --> 00:45:25,688 I'm really not a good body surfer. 1014 00:45:26,891 --> 00:45:28,357 I just learned. 1015 00:45:28,359 --> 00:45:31,294 I am 42 years old and I am studying sports 1016 00:45:31,296 --> 00:45:35,331 So, I was treated like bad for a long time 1017 00:45:35,333 --> 00:45:37,433 But, I just stuck it out because I like it 1018 00:45:37,435 --> 00:45:40,369 - Gen is a good figure to add 1019 00:45:40,371 --> 00:45:43,639 to the 21st century for many of our . 1020 00:45:43,641 --> 00:45:45,708 It feels like, okay, 1021 00:45:45,709 --> 00:45:47,776 this is the old man pulls a fixed load. 1022 00:45:47,779 --> 00:45:50,747 (crashing waves) 1023 00:45:50,749 --> 00:45:52,315 - [Voiceover] Mean Gene. 1024 00:45:52,317 --> 00:45:53,516 - [Voiceover] is that a gene? 1025 00:45:53,518 --> 00:45:54,851 - First child to enter 1026 00:45:54,853 --> 00:45:58,721 and start making body Cool surfing is Sean Starky. 1027 00:45:58,723 --> 00:46:00,990 There are no other children who fill that gap. 1028 00:46:00,992 --> 00:46:03,659 - I remember the body surfing one days, it's two to three feet, 1029 00:46:03,661 --> 00:46:05,795 I remember taking the side waving across the sand 1030 00:46:05,797 --> 00:46:07,230 and I'm lying there sand 1031 00:46:07,232 --> 00:46:10,500 and there is this person, arms cross, look at me, 1032 00:46:10,502 --> 00:46:11,901 Super tan at Speedo. 1033 00:46:11,903 --> 00:46:13,503 The Potato Head they call him. 1034 00:46:13,505 --> 00:46:15,738 Kind of looking at me go, what's your name? 1035 00:46:15,740 --> 00:46:16,806 My name is Sean. 1036 00:46:16,808 --> 00:46:18,574 It feels like, okay, I like your style man, 1037 00:46:18,576 --> 00:46:19,492 I like what you are all about. 1038 00:46:19,493 --> 00:46:20,409 You have to come here more often. 1039 00:46:20,411 --> 00:46:21,477 Then he just walked away. 1040 00:46:21,479 --> 00:46:22,879 - That's when I told myself, 1041 00:46:22,881 --> 00:46:26,249 We have a gap here, we need to stop the loss 1042 00:46:27,619 --> 00:46:30,119 from young body surfers and we need to start combining 1043 00:46:30,121 --> 00:46:33,222 it returns to the Wedge crew and builds our ranks 1044 00:46:33,224 --> 00:46:35,191 so we can have it, anytime time, 1045 00:46:35,193 --> 00:46:38,294 a force that must be taken into account in water. 1046 00:46:38,296 --> 00:46:41,664 Not for delinquency and chaos but friendship, 1047 00:46:41,666 --> 00:46:45,868 good times, stories, ride waves, 1048 00:46:45,870 --> 00:46:49,872 encourage each other to do bigger, better. 1049 00:46:50,909 --> 00:46:52,141 - [Voiceover] Needs for new generation 1050 00:46:52,143 --> 00:46:53,843 body surfers are there 1051 00:46:53,845 --> 00:46:59,448 And, with the Potato Head being a housewife, 1052 00:46:59,450 --> 00:47:03,653 or what you have seen, he saw that he had all the flocks. 1053 00:47:05,089 --> 00:47:07,890 - The first experience at Wedge was swimming across the channel 1054 00:47:07,892 --> 00:47:10,726 with my cousin Ozzy and The first person I met was Potato 1055 00:47:10,728 --> 00:47:14,497 and potatoes like, what are you doing here 1056 00:47:14,499 --> 00:47:16,299 And I like, just got some human waves 1057 00:47:16,301 --> 00:47:18,267 Potatoes like, your body surfing wrong 1058 00:47:18,269 --> 00:47:20,736 So, I like it, okay how do I Do the body surf properly? 1059 00:47:20,738 --> 00:47:22,638 And then he seems to do it strange thing 1060 00:47:22,640 --> 00:47:24,574 But it's the first, literally the first time 1061 00:47:24,576 --> 00:47:26,809 We really come out, have good stuff time 1062 00:47:26,811 --> 00:47:28,778 with John, like, first approach him. 1063 00:47:28,780 --> 00:47:30,379 - I see it is a work in progress. 1064 00:47:30,381 --> 00:47:33,316 The Potato Head is down there is building a new crew. 1065 00:47:33,318 --> 00:47:35,818 You can see it has potential and I'm happy to be home 1066 00:47:35,820 --> 00:47:37,353 because I want to help Develop it. 1067 00:47:37,355 --> 00:47:38,754 - I am rather conscious decision 1068 00:47:38,756 --> 00:47:40,423 where I want to be a Wedge tree people, 1069 00:47:40,425 --> 00:47:41,691 I want to be part of this. 1070 00:47:41,693 --> 00:47:43,759 Of course, you know, after putting in the summer, 1071 00:47:43,761 --> 00:47:46,629 they start pay attention to this young man 1072 00:47:46,631 --> 00:47:50,099 who is swimming, I will swim in whatever. 1073 00:47:53,037 --> 00:47:55,104 - One thing we try to do as an older rider 1074 00:47:55,106 --> 00:47:58,174 let them know it there like hierarchy. 1075 00:47:58,176 --> 00:47:59,508 For one, I want to get me waves. 1076 00:47:59,510 --> 00:48:02,311 But two, want them kindly go through a little 1077 00:48:02,313 --> 00:48:04,780 of what I do and what we all do 1078 00:48:04,782 --> 00:48:05,848 that makes us better 1079 00:48:05,850 --> 00:48:07,917 That doesn't make them reluctant. 1080 00:48:07,919 --> 00:48:09,085 That is to make sure they are understood, 1081 00:48:09,087 --> 00:48:13,890 we want you to go up here but we want you to go up here 1082 00:48:13,892 --> 00:48:15,491 and consider yourself as the best . 1083 00:48:15,493 --> 00:48:18,060 We want you to go up and respect the path. 1084 00:48:18,062 --> 00:48:20,396 So, we have to be like the type, we want to work it out. 1085 00:48:20,398 --> 00:48:22,465 - And, there seems to be, okay, 1086 00:48:22,467 --> 00:48:23,966 we have young blood here 1087 00:48:23,968 --> 00:48:26,335 We have some fresh items coming in. 1088 00:48:26,337 --> 00:48:27,970 We will push the limit. 1089 00:48:27,972 --> 00:48:30,606 I want to call them like my stable 1090 00:48:30,608 --> 00:48:32,508 from young rippers are out there riding 1091 00:48:32,510 --> 00:48:33,743 They are all getting older now 1092 00:48:33,745 --> 00:48:35,344 but we filled the pipe full. 1093 00:48:35,346 --> 00:48:38,114 Their friend comes down and the right time. 1094 00:48:38,116 --> 00:48:40,116 This starts again exciting. 1095 00:48:42,720 --> 00:48:47,290 - Potato Head, he really Maybe it's glue 1096 00:48:47,292 --> 00:48:50,192 who holds our entire young crew together. 1097 00:48:50,194 --> 00:48:52,328 - The first person to speak For me is Gene, surely. 1098 00:48:52,330 --> 00:48:53,930 Seeing it say, oh, hey, how? that happened 1099 00:48:53,932 --> 00:48:55,197 Or, oh, that's a good wave. 1100 00:48:55,199 --> 00:48:56,465 That means the world. 1101 00:48:56,467 --> 00:48:58,868 Get recognition from hero 1102 00:48:58,870 --> 00:49:01,003 or the person you are looking for to or trying to become 1103 00:49:01,005 --> 00:49:02,204 very big 1104 00:49:02,206 --> 00:49:03,339 - Like what Gene used to do. 1105 00:49:03,341 --> 00:49:04,907 They will talk to you, they will be down there 1106 00:49:04,909 --> 00:49:06,175 give your instructions 1107 00:49:06,177 --> 00:49:08,778 Oh hey, good riding children, keep it up . 1108 00:49:08,780 --> 00:49:09,946 Only small things like that. 1109 00:49:09,948 --> 00:49:12,915 Then you will have these other people like Lee 1110 00:49:12,917 --> 00:49:15,651 or even some Larsons where it's like, 1111 00:49:15,653 --> 00:49:18,354 they won't say a word you and like, it's okay. 1112 00:49:18,356 --> 00:49:19,755 You will wait for them words 1113 00:49:19,757 --> 00:49:21,724 Because like when they speak For you it's like a big problem. 1114 00:49:21,726 --> 00:49:23,826 - The fact that everyone is like a tight knit group 1115 00:49:23,828 --> 00:49:25,795 and continue to push each other in the water 1116 00:49:25,797 --> 00:49:28,164 That's why you see the type riding 1117 00:49:28,166 --> 00:49:30,566 it happens down there 1118 00:49:30,568 --> 00:49:32,301 - This is truly a will 1119 00:49:32,303 --> 00:49:34,437 for how everyone has each other backs. 1120 00:49:34,439 --> 00:49:36,672 - So, whenever someone is injured there, 1121 00:49:36,674 --> 00:49:39,475 There is strict unity, sort of brotherhood, 1122 00:49:39,477 --> 00:49:42,311 where we always call each other saying, 1123 00:49:42,313 --> 00:49:44,613 hey, are you hearing, Who is his name hurt? 1124 00:49:44,615 --> 00:49:45,581 Say, oh, is he okay? 1125 00:49:45,583 --> 00:49:46,916 No, he is in the hospital. 1126 00:49:46,917 --> 00:49:48,250 Well, we will go visit he is here, what happened? 1127 00:49:48,252 --> 00:49:50,353 - For Gene, when he was in RSUD, 1128 00:49:50,355 --> 00:49:53,456 We have people there almost every day visiting him, 1129 00:49:53,458 --> 00:49:56,492 help him and his family out every way we can. 1130 00:49:56,494 --> 00:50:00,730 - I hurt myself in March 30 years ago, 2012. 1131 00:50:02,533 --> 00:50:04,533 That is a smaller day that changes to 1132 00:50:04,535 --> 00:50:08,771 like 10, 12 feet a day, 15 feet later that day 1133 00:50:09,540 --> 00:50:13,209 But when I enter 11 or There's not much happening 1134 00:50:13,211 --> 00:50:15,411 and I take off like a high head wave, 1135 00:50:15,413 --> 00:50:17,380 maybe something like that 1136 00:50:17,382 --> 00:50:19,281 I remember I was shot, I slammed very hard. 1137 00:50:19,283 --> 00:50:21,083 I see bright light. 1138 00:50:22,453 --> 00:50:25,021 Like, this is amazingly bright light 1139 00:50:25,023 --> 00:50:26,355 But it's not a spiritual thing 1140 00:50:26,357 --> 00:50:29,291 that is my spine exploding i think. 1141 00:50:29,293 --> 00:50:32,061 I just came and I know I hurt. 1142 00:50:32,063 --> 00:50:35,097 I have broken nine ribs, Do you want to hear this? 1143 00:50:35,099 --> 00:50:38,467 I have broken nine ribs, pierced the lungs, 1144 00:50:38,469 --> 00:50:42,038 solve numbers T nine, 10, 11 and me spine 1145 00:50:42,040 --> 00:50:44,473 and pull out my spinal cord 1146 00:50:44,475 --> 00:50:46,342 but I'm not severe my spine rope. 1147 00:50:46,344 --> 00:50:47,843 That's why I sit here today. 1148 00:50:47,845 --> 00:50:50,146 So, it's a mother fucker. 1149 00:50:51,649 --> 00:50:52,715 This pisses me off. 1150 00:50:52,717 --> 00:50:56,285 - When he is injured, we, indeed destroy 1151 00:50:57,321 --> 00:50:59,588 Because this is the man who drives only because he turns on and drives waves. 1152 00:50:59,590 --> 00:51:01,357 This is the last person you want to see hurt, right? 1153 00:51:01,359 --> 00:51:03,659 Someone who deserves to go up the place forever 1154 00:51:03,661 --> 00:51:06,062 1155 00:51:06,064 --> 00:51:07,596 and then some. 1156 00:51:07,598 --> 00:51:10,132 But, what happens is he like a positive attitude 1157 00:51:10,134 --> 00:51:13,269 and he made it through some extraordinary things. 1158 00:51:13,271 --> 00:51:15,871 - I go back to Wedge's first chance I can 1159 00:51:15,873 --> 00:51:18,741 and I'm not sure I want to come back but I do 1160 00:51:18,743 --> 00:51:21,644 - We can see it coming from where we sit 1161 00:51:21,646 --> 00:51:23,129 next to the rock. 1162 00:51:23,130 --> 00:51:24,613 We see the Genes running, you see a man's silhouette 1163 00:51:24,615 --> 00:51:25,898 bring a stick 1164 00:51:25,899 --> 00:51:27,182 Everyone's eyes are bright enough up. 1165 00:51:27,185 --> 00:51:30,252 (cheerful, pop music) 1166 00:51:33,191 --> 00:51:35,324 - Just like the first time he went down to the beach 1167 00:51:35,326 --> 00:51:38,727 I was very teary about it 1168 00:51:38,729 --> 00:51:40,930 because he really, you know, I'm like, god damn, 1169 00:51:40,932 --> 00:51:43,499 This old man doesn't give up. 1170 00:51:51,976 --> 00:51:55,478 - I have grown a lot People approach me and cry 1171 00:51:55,480 --> 00:51:58,180 and hug me tell me they are very happy 1172 00:51:58,182 --> 00:52:00,916 that I'm fine and fair Wedge spirit 1173 00:52:00,918 --> 00:52:03,886 as I feel, already, this is only, 1174 00:52:04,755 --> 00:52:06,789 that's a great thing 1175 00:52:06,791 --> 00:52:08,257 And, especially Wedge guys, 1176 00:52:08,259 --> 00:52:12,695 I really want to thank them because I was only there for me 1177 00:52:12,697 --> 00:52:16,165 and I hope so Can be explained better 1178 00:52:16,167 --> 00:52:20,569 but that's really great and special experience 1179 00:52:20,571 --> 00:52:22,371 for me all my life 1180 00:52:22,373 --> 00:52:23,706 I will never forget it 1181 00:52:23,708 --> 00:52:27,443 And I thank everyone the time and that's it. 1182 00:52:37,388 --> 00:52:40,189 (flapping flag) 1183 00:52:45,129 --> 00:52:47,963 (crashing waves) 1184 00:52:49,534 --> 00:52:53,469 - Gen, until the day he died, when was he was, 1185 00:52:53,471 --> 00:52:57,740 he will be out there, annoying waves, big waves 1186 00:52:57,742 --> 00:52:59,108 and he is always pumped. 1187 00:52:59,110 --> 00:53:01,977 - He is the best real man 1188 00:53:01,979 --> 00:53:03,879 You will never meet in your life. 1189 00:53:03,881 --> 00:53:05,748 Welcoming and good for everyone, anyone, 1190 00:53:05,750 --> 00:53:07,850 wave rider or not 1191 00:53:07,852 --> 00:53:09,151 Not only in Wedge but in life. 1192 00:53:09,153 --> 00:53:11,420 That's how it is, that's how it is 1193 00:53:11,422 --> 00:53:14,156 - I think Gene's stoke is brought we together 1194 00:53:14,158 --> 00:53:17,226 and know what's fun riding 1195 00:53:17,228 --> 00:53:20,696 And, I think the legacy of Gene has happened we are aware of 1196 00:53:23,100 --> 00:53:26,468 how close we must be to each other . 1197 00:53:26,470 --> 00:53:29,939 And, I just remember everyone appeared 1198 00:53:30,841 --> 00:53:34,677 for the funeral and how we feel about it. 1199 00:53:34,679 --> 00:53:37,913 And how we all feel as brothers again. 1200 00:53:40,551 --> 00:53:42,851 Yes know, share our sadness 1201 00:53:42,853 --> 00:53:45,788 and that we need to do have each other's backs 1202 00:53:45,790 --> 00:53:48,190 and remember how triggered Gene is riding. 1203 00:53:48,192 --> 00:53:49,892 When I go to Wedge now, 1204 00:53:49,894 --> 00:53:51,727 I thought about it and I smiled. 1205 00:53:51,729 --> 00:53:53,562 I don't like crying I just got triggering 1206 00:53:53,564 --> 00:53:57,132 Because it's so fun he will have. 1207 00:53:58,903 --> 00:54:01,770 da You are still one to break my heart 1208 00:54:01,772 --> 00:54:04,707 ¶ You still have to rip it off it's separate 1209 00:54:04,709 --> 00:54:07,576 ¶ You are still calling my name is 1210 00:54:07,578 --> 00:54:09,178 olah As if everything I want 1211 00:54:09,180 --> 00:54:11,247 emua All I want is pain 1212 00:54:11,249 --> 00:54:13,616 daYou are still one to break my heart 1213 00:54:13,618 --> 00:54:16,619 ¶ You still have to rip it off it's separate 1214 00:54:16,621 --> 00:54:19,388 ¶ You are still calling my name is 1215 00:54:19,390 --> 00:54:21,156 olah As if everything I want 1216 00:54:21,158 --> 00:54:24,493 hanyalah All I want is pain ¶ 1217 00:54:24,495 --> 00:54:26,528 - [Voiceover] warning is a great thing, 1218 00:54:26,530 --> 00:54:27,730 things that touch 1219 00:54:27,732 --> 00:54:32,134 This brings everyone together, young people, parents 1220 00:54:32,136 --> 00:54:34,036 This is cemented group. 1221 00:54:35,072 --> 00:54:37,373 Then we got Hurricane Marie. 1222 00:54:37,375 --> 00:54:40,276 The biggest storm swell I have ever witnessed 1223 00:54:40,278 --> 00:54:43,178 I think at times, this can be waves 1224 00:54:43,180 --> 00:54:45,414 has it been a gift from Gene? 1225 00:54:45,416 --> 00:54:49,051 (cheerful, electronic music) 1226 00:54:55,693 --> 00:54:58,727 - Never been there Mystical storm 20 feet swell 1227 00:54:58,729 --> 00:55:00,763 Since the 90s, right? 1228 00:55:00,765 --> 00:55:03,532 And you see in a few weeks come out, this can happen. 1229 00:55:03,534 --> 00:55:04,950 - This gets all the hype. 1230 00:55:04,951 --> 00:55:06,367 Like, oh, okay, surely, will be big, it's up to 1231 00:55:06,370 --> 00:55:09,004 This will be a big storm, The corner is right, everything. 1232 00:55:09,006 --> 00:55:10,956 I will believe it when I see it. 1233 00:55:10,957 --> 00:55:12,907 Then one week of rolling in and estimated type of repair. 1234 00:55:12,910 --> 00:55:14,810 Like, oh, okay, this might be shapen up 1235 00:55:14,812 --> 00:55:17,212 Still somewhat holding back my excitement to, 1236 00:55:17,214 --> 00:55:18,947 and then like the previous two days like, 1237 00:55:18,949 --> 00:55:20,582 oh, okay, something happened and we got the waves. 1238 00:55:20,584 --> 00:55:22,918 This will line up, it will be, you know, 1239 00:55:22,920 --> 00:55:24,520 hopefully ideal 1240 00:55:24,522 --> 00:55:26,021 - don't sleep well night before. 1241 00:55:26,023 --> 00:55:28,857 I wake up, look at cam, it's pumping. 1242 00:55:28,859 --> 00:55:30,626 Down and see the crowd. 1243 00:55:30,628 --> 00:55:33,562 It's down, lots of is happening. 1244 00:55:33,564 --> 00:55:35,164 - You start getting nervous and like it, 1245 00:55:35,166 --> 00:55:37,166 I and other young friends who drive it 1246 00:55:37,168 --> 00:55:40,703 just so amped to get this chance 1247 00:55:40,705 --> 00:55:44,006 and we know this will happen time. 1248 00:55:44,008 --> 00:55:47,209 Like, this swells like our chance to really appear 1249 00:55:47,211 --> 00:55:49,945 like a young crew Here, we are here to stay 1250 00:55:49,947 --> 00:55:51,413 and we go up well. 1251 00:55:51,415 --> 00:55:54,917 (fast, rock music) 1252 00:56:10,634 --> 00:56:13,569 rapContraption every night 1253 00:56:13,571 --> 00:56:16,672 ikirkan Think of lights 1254 00:56:16,674 --> 00:56:19,708 tu It stops all feelings 1255 00:56:19,710 --> 00:56:23,345 "It entered under the table 1256 00:56:24,281 --> 00:56:28,283 sIs that what they say 1257 00:56:28,285 --> 00:56:31,854 sIs that what they say 1258 00:56:31,856 --> 00:56:35,257 sIs that what they say 1259 00:56:59,216 --> 00:57:02,418 an And I'm aiming 1260 00:57:02,420 --> 00:57:05,320 ¶ gem of a song 1261 00:57:05,322 --> 00:57:08,390 baik good appetite 1262 00:57:08,392 --> 00:57:12,461 ¶ A spread that has been wasted 1263 00:57:13,631 --> 00:57:16,632 sIs that what they say 1264 00:57:16,634 --> 00:57:19,568 sIs that what they say 1265 00:57:46,096 --> 00:57:48,797 (heavy water) 1266 00:57:48,799 --> 00:57:51,600 (crashing waves) 1267 00:58:09,854 --> 00:58:12,654 - Hurricane Marie, I mean, as everyone knows and says 1268 00:58:12,656 --> 00:58:14,356 is swollen, right? 1269 00:58:14,358 --> 00:58:16,859 But what really drives is above for me, 1270 00:58:16,861 --> 00:58:18,894 what makes swell so special and so on 1271 00:58:18,896 --> 00:58:20,696 that I will always personally remember 1272 00:58:20,698 --> 00:58:23,031 not always always will be a wave 1273 00:58:23,033 --> 00:58:25,267 but that day really represented 1274 00:58:25,269 --> 00:58:27,536 and how symbolic it is 1275 00:58:27,538 --> 00:58:29,471 for almost like changes guards. 1276 00:58:29,473 --> 00:58:32,574 Seeing everyone like Teddy, Charlie, James, 1277 00:58:32,576 --> 00:58:35,944 all of these young people step up up and up is just amazing. 1278 00:58:35,946 --> 00:58:37,713 That is a big problem and see all support 1279 00:58:37,715 --> 00:58:40,482 Whose parents I can just go 1280 00:58:40,484 --> 00:58:42,050 If they want, they can do it burn us 1281 00:58:42,052 --> 00:58:44,086 in each if they want and we will be fine with that 1282 00:58:44,088 --> 00:58:45,954 But they gave us waves, huh? I know, 1283 00:58:45,956 --> 00:58:47,923 gives us the opportunity to prove it yourself. 1284 00:58:47,925 --> 00:58:50,092 And, I think they are happy to see what they see. 1285 00:58:50,094 --> 00:58:52,694 ¶ River river runs 1286 00:58:52,696 --> 00:58:54,496 ¶ Take me to the sea ¶ 1287 00:58:54,498 --> 00:58:55,464 - I think as you get older, 1288 00:58:55,466 --> 00:58:57,599 You lose your selfishness place. 1289 00:58:57,601 --> 00:59:00,536 You realize that what is it, this is a wave, 1290 00:59:00,538 --> 00:59:03,238 and that doesn't exist just for us. 1291 00:59:03,240 --> 00:59:06,108 It is there for people when we have it, 1292 00:59:06,110 --> 00:59:08,710 we will go, oh God, yes, we are the best generation ever, 1293 00:59:08,712 --> 00:59:11,747 we have better waves of riders, lots of nonsense 1294 00:59:11,749 --> 00:59:13,715 We drive it and everyone loves I t, 1295 00:59:13,717 --> 00:59:15,801 that's all there is to it 1296 00:59:15,802 --> 00:59:17,886 Everyone is together because we like the waves 1297 00:59:17,888 --> 00:59:20,122 and we try to get the stoke 1298 00:59:20,124 --> 00:59:21,823 Go to the next generation down. 1299 00:59:21,825 --> 00:59:25,060 Even younger children, I Meaning, they have that age 1300 00:59:25,062 --> 00:59:26,528 what we have at their age 1301 00:59:26,530 --> 00:59:28,997 You can see it and that only makes me feel good 1302 00:59:28,999 --> 00:59:31,967 to see children love it place. 1303 00:59:33,203 --> 00:59:35,637 ¶ I just don't know ¶ 1304 00:59:35,639 --> 00:59:36,972 - Wedge means everything me. 1305 00:59:36,974 --> 00:59:39,207 For me, I think that I am a favorite thing that can happen down there you will take off at a good peak, 1306 00:59:39,209 --> 00:59:42,444 catch all the entrances, 1307 00:59:42,446 --> 00:59:44,079 they will be in and you see your friend 1308 00:59:44,081 --> 00:59:45,847 take off in the next, 1309 00:59:45,849 --> 00:59:47,149 You go through your hands up, you know, 1310 00:59:47,151 --> 00:59:48,850 That's when you are triggered. 1311 00:59:48,852 --> 00:59:50,218 That's good. 1312 00:59:50,220 --> 00:59:51,587 That is what Wedge means to me. 1313 00:59:51,589 --> 00:59:53,322 - I think the bottom you do it 1314 00:59:53,324 --> 00:59:55,824 because it's fun 1315 00:59:55,826 --> 00:59:57,426 Life should be fun. 1316 00:59:57,428 --> 00:59:59,127 1317 00:59:59,129 --> 01:00:02,164 And I say for us, this is the best . 1318 01:00:02,166 --> 01:00:04,967 - Wedge is like making my life and it also destroys my life 1319 01:00:04,969 --> 01:00:06,134 in many ways. 1320 01:00:06,136 --> 01:00:09,171 My neck hurts every morning when I wake up My hips are damaged pretty much 1321 01:00:09,173 --> 01:00:11,506 Sometimes I just wake up and I hips hurt. 1322 01:00:11,508 --> 01:00:13,742 But literally I will not change anything 1323 01:00:13,744 --> 01:00:15,777 That happened to me at Baji 1324 01:00:15,779 --> 01:00:17,212 because my friends already met, the waves I got 1325 01:00:17,214 --> 01:00:20,749 and only good overall When I'm out there 1326 01:00:20,751 --> 01:00:22,818 have done every sacrifice I have to make 1327 01:00:22,820 --> 01:00:25,053 1328 01:00:25,055 --> 01:00:27,990 really feasible for that wave and that vibration 1329 01:00:27,992 --> 01:00:30,025 and everything you send down there. 1330 01:00:30,027 --> 01:00:31,293 I will not change it for that world 1331 01:00:31,295 --> 01:00:34,696 and I can't wait to show it My child is exactly the same thing 1332 01:00:34,698 --> 01:00:35,931 I've arrived down there 1333 01:00:35,933 --> 01:00:38,300 and I hope he follows it The footsteps are sure. 1334 01:00:38,302 --> 01:00:40,335 - This is one of those things where is where I see 1335 01:00:40,337 --> 01:00:42,437 that photo and I see everything post 1336 01:00:42,439 --> 01:00:44,706 and I just like that trigger for a new crew 1337 01:00:44,708 --> 01:00:47,509 It drives it, like that enjoys it 1338 01:00:47,511 --> 01:00:50,245 and it's still the same old Old Wedge is dirty, you know, 1339 01:00:50,247 --> 01:00:52,648 it's still the same 1340 01:00:52,650 --> 01:00:55,384 anaWhere do I go 1341 01:00:55,386 --> 01:00:58,353 ¶ I don't know 1342 01:00:58,355 --> 01:00:59,921 ana Where do I go ¶ 1343 01:00:59,923 --> 01:01:03,325 - [Voiceover] My last wave was in the fall of 2008 1344 01:01:03,327 --> 01:01:04,960 and that is still in my mind. 1345 01:01:04,962 --> 01:01:06,461 I still think about it. 1346 01:01:06,463 --> 01:01:07,963 I dream about that. 1347 01:01:07,965 --> 01:01:10,499 I have a nightmare about it. 1348 01:01:10,501 --> 01:01:14,736 I am a wave rider, knees boarder and Wedge are my place. 1349 01:01:16,106 --> 01:01:18,707 adi So I ran running the river 1350 01:01:18,709 --> 01:01:22,344 ¶ Take me to the sea 1351 01:01:22,346 --> 01:01:24,780 ¶ As long as you move 1352 01:01:24,782 --> 01:01:27,616 akanI will go 1353 01:01:27,618 --> 01:01:30,585 ¶See that California sun 1354 01:01:30,587 --> 01:01:34,289 ¶ I know I'm getting closer 1355 01:01:34,291 --> 01:01:36,625 ¶ I have no purpose 1356 01:01:36,627 --> 01:01:39,594 api But I have to go 1357 01:01:39,596 --> 01:01:42,564 ¶ River river runs 1358 01:01:42,566 --> 01:01:45,534 ¶ Let the city fade behind me 1359 01:01:45,536 --> 01:01:49,771 ¶ They will never find me where do I go 1360 01:01:51,241 --> 01:01:54,810 ¶See that the sun is sinking low 1361 01:01:54,812 --> 01:01:57,846 aku Let me take me to the sea 1362 01:02:00,050 --> 01:02:03,852 api But I have to go 1363 01:02:03,854 --> 01:02:05,754 ¶Mmm 1364 01:02:06,724 --> 01:02:08,623 ¶Mmm 1365 01:02:09,626 --> 01:02:11,526 ¶Mmm 1366 01:02:12,463 --> 01:02:16,598 ¶ Mmm ¶ 1367 01:02:16,600 --> 01:02:17,766 - Welcome to Coastal Focus. 1368 01:02:17,768 --> 01:02:20,736 Long Southern California Already know to surf it 1369 01:02:20,738 --> 01:02:24,239 and one of the most unique and a place to surf wild around 1370 01:02:24,241 --> 01:02:26,241 is here, in Newport Beach. 1371 01:02:26,243 --> 01:02:27,642 I am Sherry Lynn Deganheart, 1372 01:02:27,644 --> 01:02:31,079 live with us as we take see Wedge 1373 01:02:31,081 --> 01:02:34,549 - [Voiceover] Extraordinary, red flag, black ball and Ivan 1374 01:02:34,551 --> 01:02:37,519 all tanning goes here at Baji . 1375 01:02:38,822 --> 01:02:43,058 JT, check the unit and he is glad it still exists 1376 01:02:44,795 --> 01:02:46,027 - [Voiceover] For now, 1377 01:02:46,029 --> 01:02:48,396 one of the top surfers all the time, 1378 01:02:48,398 --> 01:02:50,699 Mr. Terry Wade, give a thumb sign, 1379 01:02:50,701 --> 01:02:53,268 unfortunately he doesn't realize the waves 1380 01:02:53,270 --> 01:02:56,571 doesn't really happen as we speak. 1381 01:02:56,573 --> 01:02:59,007 - [Voiceover] Jeff, I have a view here 1382 01:02:59,009 --> 01:03:02,911 I like to see (laughs). 1383 01:03:02,913 --> 01:03:06,348 This young woman can need to save people, 1384 01:03:06,350 --> 01:03:07,616 don't forget that 1385 01:03:07,618 --> 01:03:08,834 Beware. 1386 01:03:08,835 --> 01:03:10,051 - [Voiceover] What type People are in the Wedge crew? 1387 01:03:01,053 --> 01:03:11,553 - [Voiceover] Yes, what kind of person do you have? 1388 01:03:11,555 --> 01:03:15,257 - People who are crazy just drive 30 feet of waves 1389 01:03:15,259 --> 01:03:18,126 and pick it up and not get hurt. 1390 01:03:21,431 --> 01:03:23,265 doop dooply bird 1391 01:03:23,267 --> 01:03:26,368 Oh, and this is one truth now. 1392 01:03:26,370 --> 01:03:29,471 Hello, sir (laugh) 1393 01:03:29,473 --> 01:03:31,406 - [Voiceover] It turns out up Dumbo is down 1394 01:03:31,408 --> 01:03:34,309 and, how do you feel? Sir. 1395 01:03:34,311 --> 01:03:35,911 - I am very messed up. 1396 01:03:35,913 --> 01:03:38,180 I'm really looking forward to ride Dumbo. 1397 01:03:38,182 --> 01:03:40,515 - [Voiceover] Is that yours Favorite trip here on D soil? 1398 01:03:40,517 --> 01:03:42,684 - All right, you know, I like it a lot 1399 01:03:42,686 --> 01:03:44,019 Maybe they will let us go up - 1400 01:03:44,021 --> 01:03:45,654 - [Voiceover] Thank you very much many sirs (optimistic, rock music) 1401 01:03:45,656 --> 01:03:48,824 - [Voiceover] Ladies and Gentlemen, 1402 01:03:54,731 --> 01:03:56,131 He left last week at all 1403 01:03:56,133 --> 01:03:57,666 I was a bit wondering if the size of grapefruit 1404 01:04:00,904 --> 01:04:03,271 has dropped off altogether 1405 01:04:03,273 --> 01:04:04,406 We will interview him when he appears 1406 01:04:04,408 --> 01:04:06,741 and we might interview the left testis too. 1407 01:04:06,743 --> 01:04:10,178 1408 01:04:10,180 --> 01:04:12,147 - [Voiceover] Many of you in the Wedge crew 1409 01:04:12,149 --> 01:04:14,616 have wondered how MCCS works 1410 01:04:14,618 --> 01:04:17,752 That's Mel Cinema Crewmation Service. 1411 01:04:17,754 --> 01:04:19,888 And, I'm happy to show you. 1412 01:04:19,890 --> 01:04:21,857 First we have matches, 1413 01:04:21,859 --> 01:04:23,892 of course movies, 1414 01:04:23,894 --> 01:04:26,828 and my trusted streaming assistance. 1415 01:04:26,830 --> 01:04:29,831 You take a match, okay sucker. 1416 01:04:31,935 --> 01:04:32,934 Wait, stop 1417 01:04:34,471 --> 01:04:36,504 This is not lighting. 1418 01:04:36,506 --> 01:04:38,106 - [Voiceover] Look at that 1419 01:04:38,107 --> 01:04:39,707 An extraordinary step, I think he might get 20, 1420 01:04:39,710 --> 01:04:42,944 20 to 40 points on that one people. 1421 01:04:42,946 --> 01:04:44,679 Waving to the crowd. 1422 01:04:44,681 --> 01:04:47,649 Perfect execution for contest. 1423 01:04:47,651 --> 01:04:49,017 Good job JT. 1424 01:04:49,019 --> 01:04:52,153 (optimistic, rock music) 1425 01:05:06,303 --> 01:05:09,204 (people cheering) 1426 01:05:13,176 --> 01:05:16,044 (people laugh) 1427 01:05:19,816 --> 01:05:21,383 - Welcome to Wedge. 1428 01:05:21,385 --> 01:05:23,818 Come down, go up a wave your neck 1429 01:05:23,820 --> 01:05:25,654 We don't care. 1430 01:05:30,727 --> 01:05:34,195 (soft and acoustic music) Referred by: www.subtitlecinema.com