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(rock music)
(crashing waves)
- Wedge in one word, psycho.
(Entrance Song by The Black Angels)
- The wave is a protruding, strange in nature.
- Wedge has as much power as any wave
I have been surfing in my life.
- I will say the power of Hawaii is in the middle of Orange County.
- And kill people and that break the neck
and you go, shit.
endingBending time feels fine
Song anceErance
anceEntrance song ¶
- This is the most famous body surf waves in the world, duh.
- If you talk about this The Wedge's mysterious place
You finally go there
and that's just all hell breaking loose.
- That is the place and indeed like the gladiator pit arena
watching some of us beautiful like risking our lives.
aca Read down quickly 75
¶ Walking like a knife ¶
- [Voiceover] Wave is The reason we are all there.
That is no more than that from that, it is a wave.
(heavy water)
(soft, piano music)
- [Voiceover] My name is Ron Romanosky.
Some call me Romo.
I am a former, photographer,
one might, I don't know, three or four billion of them.
And I'm helpless and Wedge addicts are unbearable
(pencil scraping)
Our story starts at Wedge,
25 or more years after the construction of the dock is over
There are already established groups of people on Wedge Fred Simpson and Roger Goodan is among them.
(plucky, guitar music)
- When I first went to Baji,
This will be at the end of 50's,
there are no crowds
There are no lifeguards.
The maximum person will do it to three, four, five people.
There are always enough waves.
- When I first arrived at Wedge and the initial meeting
different people have been driving it already,
there is one man that I already know
He is the first high School children swim faster
of two minutes at 200.
And he did it in ninth grade.
- Wave physics in Wedge unique
for several different reasons .
First, what you have incoming waves
from the south
That's the bank against the dock
and so you end up with a side wave
supported by others waves.
So you have two waves above each other.
- It's basically double wave height
and that's as big as that this beach
- That is routinely all body surfers
Surfboards are too long and is too heavy
to be able to handle large surfing.
And, to be able to experiment with different techniques,
it's really extraordinary because we have lots
riding
That's very, kind of egalitarian, sweet environment.
- [Voiceover] not magazines, no social media.
People communicated telephone, land line telephone
Early days at Wedge It's really a simple time.
- [Voiceover] At the beginning of the 70s Danny Kwock
I'm on the beach, I believe, but I don't believe He has never drank that water.
- First experience in Wedge for me is
I have moved from Gwaii, I've been like that always heard I t
Because I grew up in a place by Sandy Beach.
People there,
kind of people like Mark Orang cunningham
it's like men surfer legend,
they will always talk Wedge
and this is famous place, even in Hawaii when you were little.
Then I move California and we end
on Newport Beach.
Suddenly I know like,
This is definitely where Wedge is, I thought,
It's in Newport Beach, you know, I don't know where
I mean, I don't know it is in my house
I just started going down there and hanging out
and that's pretty much, you know,
at Wedge at that time.
That is only a mixture of local children
and there is Father.
Then when I start growing up there,
I realize why people don't go down,
because beautiful Father Same as (muttering) out.
(buzzing machine)
- [Voiceover] Some time in the mid 70's,
this group of people appeared,
never seen them before, long-haired blonde,
but they go well.
They respect those people who were before them.
This new group of people will do it become known as the Wedge crew.
And Mel Thoman is the leader.
- My first experience went down to Wedge
I think I'm 14 or 15 years old.
I think anyone who is down first
think it will be great
This is a Wedge, it will be big ,
You just heard the story.
I got there and it felt like one feet.
So, 60 miles one way, one foot, not too happy
But, a few years later, it was 1975
and June, solid in the south hemi,
and that, it's a good size.
And I remember standing on the beach for an hour and a half
and I see those people that I can say they know
what they do, they are brilliant.
And I think I'm pretty good.
And I go there and I go (laughs) I learned a lot.
- there is this summer where Mel Thoman
and Greg Deets and this people just came out
from this cheesy van it's very terrible
And at the same time, this other man is Terry Wade
also there.
We are children like, oh, who are these people? Yes you know, but then they start coming every day
and they will get there freaking HOURS 7:00 MORNING
and they will leave at will seven o'clock at night.
- We make this little pact
and we are new people, young people
- 77, that summer is years I really have to know
These people are very good and we start gathering with
and, no problem.
Well, it's not found out I must say
- For some reason, it is a very large group it will go there every day,
are there waves or not
This group is very united
and I think that's why is a Wedge crew.
I don't know who created it phrase
but it started in the 70s era
where I enter
(optimistic, rock music)
(crashing waves)
(optimistic, rock music)
- You could say it is right away who is the player
down at the Wedge and you just know to stay clear
and only remain low.
- Wedge people see themselves as a type of rebellion,
not mainstream and they tell it because.
- They have a lot of comics.
They become locals.
They are like jerks people
which isn't from here
- You have everyone in group,
think in the same way.
This is our wave and there is no one else who will screw it up for us.
- There must be a local wedge crew and--
- [Voiceover] They don't like anyone who attacks their territory
- They don't like it (laugh).
- when I first go there, everyone,
first aggressive.
I mean, everyone has their bad ball outside.
- For Wedge people, yes it's a little
from a different story because The wave is not just pleasure,
It's about encouraging yourself to do it your limit
(optimistic, rock music)
- Wedge guys surfer body like polo coast guard,
buff, stud dudes, you know
So, they don't take nonsense from anyone.
- You will get the standard warning, you know
If you are an idiot and you cut you or something
and they land on you, You will say, listen to men,
Don't do that again
And if they do it again, yeah,
Sometimes we will follow it beach.
- [Voiceover] Wedge Crew.
- [Brunette] Wedge Crew.
- [Blonde] Yeah
- [Voiceover] We Wedge holes.
- [Both] Yes.
- [Voiceover] Will they kick our ass to be here
- I know and it's funny because they come down with shorts
initially and then suddenly humans,
they just entered Speedos and we are all,
who, you know
- When you first drive,
it's Speedos below rod, down to the water,
drop the suitcase, ride your bike Speedos.
And then, finally we say, oh.
You know what, we the best people here
We are always here
so why don't we just wear them on the beach?
Because we don't care.
We don't care about anyone think of us
- You know, that is their journey
and they make fun of themselves.
They make it funny to use Speedos.
- And the only time I won't use Speeds,
Romanaosky and I do a lot of Frisbee.
He will say, Mel, no the way I throw Frisbee
with you using Speedos
- But it's funny, I think they won us all
and their established type deals
because they are free charismatic, you know
Like, Mel is very funny and only really good
with jabber jibber and guarding Father
from upset he and made him laugh
And he knows quickly, like,
Father is that person gets a wave, you know
- [Voiceover] Oh my God, it's big.
Uh oh, Ron just tore it up.
Well, he turns it on awesome
(soft music and picking)
(clapping)
- [Voiceover] Even though Speedos, they are wave riders.
They bring new energy Baji
and energy on sand transferred
directly to the water.
They set the bar higher than before.
- I think we keep going and go
and more people Please enter
and if they have the same spirit,
They have that passion, love it.
It feels like, let's go.
You know, and you have it the same soul, the same heart,
same love
- The art of surfing the body and soulfulness
Surfing the Body Wedge Crew is all about,
even though they love their pleasure,
They are puritan body surfers, you know.
And they like the art form.
- There is something special about being in that wave
with nothing but your body.
And, that's difficult.
This is not easy.
So, when you print up the body surfing,
This is the greatest feeling in the world world
because you are one with ocean.
- There is no better way Riding the waves surfing the body.
There is only something special about that
that you can't beat it.
- The body of surfing in the Wedge is really starting to peak with fame and people see body surfers
because it's more than just that guy,
oh, they don't know how to surf
or body board or do anything.
It's like, no, no, body surfing is like a full deal
by itself
- I always say the waves caught me there
and people hold me there
Because here I go down there and that,
Everyone surfing.
Here it is, this is where I belong.
(soft, pop music)
- [Voiceover] Fun with Mel's crew,
Shortly before the new harvest
children begin to appear.
These young people, indeed well,
You know, show only extraordinary style
- When it first appears, We are very scared of the crew
and they are so unique individual groups.
They are like that talent, style
They use Speedos all kinds of colors.
Are things in our waves unable to imagine.
And we only admire them.
- I will go there and Father will tell me to go,
Jeff Stack will tell me leave.
You know, Terry Wave, even Mel, comes out of here (grunts).
That happens literally years.
- You have to prove yourself.
And to prove yourself means take off
some bad and ugly things
- [Voiceover] Uh - oh.
Oh, wait a minute.
Who is that?
- And finally work alone up that little hierarchy
And then finally appears everyone
that you can handle it and become there.
- [Voiceover] Panama Rick.
Panama Rick is on the barrel.
and that's just taking, it's It might take five years
before we Semi-integrated into the crew.
Phil, whatever you want say to people at home?
- I think I have some goodness waves today
- [Voiceover] I saw you ripped out there but -
- Mel tries not to talk, I think I am going up well.
- I think finally know you are in the crew
And my nickname must be Panama Rick
because my face is always red.
I get the name that causes Panama My face looks like a fish.
Mel, where did Mel come from?
This is Kevin, Kevin Feldman.
I don't know where Mel came from from.
then that happens with a wave of magnitude riding
- Sacks or bats wings because of their sack
So big, he will stretch it out and do this at a party
When he's drunk, it's true terrible
- We have a nickname for Tom.
He is a big man with red color hair
and we call him Sasquatch.
- That's actually Sasquatch from my high school friend
and that is the Wedge crew members who say I believe
that his friends call him Money box.
- We will hear this, what do we think is Cashbox
and we will call people with big donkeys, butt boxes.
So, we think it's perfect.
You know, big man, big ass (laughs).
- I got the guy who came to me, they left,
hey, cash, I don't know you have the real name Tom Kennedy.
I go, I do.
I am Tom Kennedy, Cashbox is mine nickname.
But everyone in that matter the community is very engrossed,
cool personality and That's exactly what is made
What is the Wedge crew
- Things we usually do crew, everything is fun.
I mean, all of that Like, this is the most fun
anyone who can have it is riding a Wedge.
¶Well I'm very tired
¶ Why don't you ¶
- Mel is like being the root of this group of people
sort of come together.
- Mel is the person you can tell
like kind of mayor there right?
You have Fred Simpson who is the president,
You have Terry Wade who's Maybe it's all-star.
Tom Kennedy is a comedian.
And you have Mel, mayor.
- [Voiceover] Mel Toman, for For example, having a BA from USC
but he chose to stock grocery shelves at night
so the waves have it all day long .
He even records it every day wave reports for other people
like Tom Kennedy, who runs an insurance agent
but still calling Mel two or three times every day
- He is the one who will do it bring it all (laughs).
He will bring it all like a blow up toy
with a dragon and anything down to the beach
and ride the waves with them.
I will only be like, really man,
where did you come with this, do you know?
- He has a different vision, I think of all of us.
I think we are like waves, waves, waves, waves, waves,
do you know?
And in my opinion, Mel is a kind of smart .
He is like waves, waves, waves,
But let's do something special
about waves, waves, waves, waves, waves
So, he initiated this crazy thing every year,
At the end of the year, Mel's tanning contest.
- [Voiceover] Tanning The tournament is fair
the most ridiculously Fun time you can get.
It feels like an Academy Awards beach.
- [Voiceover] Quarterback by Mel Thoman,
he will buy trophies.
- [Voiceover] what is it even you hope
to win this year?
- I am looking for, obviously, Look at farmers.
- [Voiceover] Give us full frontal.
- full frontal
- [Voiceover] Yes.
- [Voiceover] And, everyone will go to the beach
and tan for a full day.
I mean, this becomes an annual event in Newport Beach and that's good
- [Voiceover] Dan Ivan, Ivan classics.
Seeing this big, six feet, 300 pounds of men
with a giant beer belly browned unexpectedly,
pacing around them Speedo is quite funny.
- Not about appearance How beautiful we are,
that, we will have the farmer tan.
We have casper for him the whiteest person.
We will have, just an award joke.
- [Voiceover] Blonde hair,
award lobster for the worst burn.
You know, the best foot.
For girls, we have the best diamonds.
- [Voiceover] Top line, breast line (laugh).
(beachgoers chattering)
- We have several creative trophies.
- We will come and (clap) and for the best dorsel
and someone will get cup
and everyone will applaud.
- Sara, dressed best from (cheering drowning the speaker)
(cheering and applause)
- This is related to girls, this is related to being a person,
it's related to different ages.
You have existing guys back to like 40, you know
And people like Dustin like 20
and that's only, once again, it's only,
he functions, I think, as a needle.
This sews a lot of us together.
- What's amazing that all of these people
we want to be around all different
and they will have this party.
- [Voiceover] Malarchy.
- [Voiceover] Easy.
- [Voiceover] This is not my fault.
- [Voiceover] Atta's son, Mel.
- They are crazy and as youth,
I like, you know, children in Almost Famous
just watching this body surfing my hero
and my guy is just right respected, you know
- You want to be at a party causing them to show a movie.
- Yes, that's special movies and slides, this -
- You have to be crazy to go.
(girl laugh)
- [Voiceover] That doesn't sound it's too wild
- This.
- Many people don't succeed home.
- You know, this person is Dale Kovach will show the video.
Mel will record videos for days of all rides
and people will sit there at this party
and only pounds of beer and criticism of each other.
- Then the slide will appear
and heckling will start and it's like,
what goes up and how big it is
and who claims the best waves.
(people screaming and cheering)
- Go to some Father's slideshow,
I just urinated on my pants heckling
and catcalling and nut galleries on those things.
And, it's really neat to see guys become triggers
and very passionate.
- We watch them and people will exclaim
and shout and everyone, you know,
it only brings us together more.
I don't know if anyone really studied the films.
- We studied the film.
We will borrow the video cassette from Mel
and watch them above and above, me and young people,
because we want a to rise like a parent
and go up the best
Because they really have the best style
- [Voiceover] In the 60s, was originally,
You have men without style.
And the first summer without stopping, You see people riding the waves,
or rather, get ready.
But around the same time, surfing a blessed body
with a man named Fred Simpson.
He is the first to put it hands lead
on the wave front and the other arm.
He navigates the wave like a board will
Then you go into the 70s, and a large group of people,
where Terry Wade is a little in front of others
- [Voiceover] We visit customers here
- Hi, I'm Allen Hamill, what's your name?
- Terry Wade
- And Terry, do you shop here on Alpha Beta?
- No, no.
- What?
- I don't shop
- You don't shop at Alpha Beta?
- No.
- you--
- My first impression Terry is my first year
to keep there my first real day
Like, legit, 20, 25 feet a day.
You will only see this red Speedo goes from the top
get to the cylinder and That is the same person all the time.
I say, who is that person?
And, that's when I first heard the name Terry Wade
And he is one of the best I've seen out there.
- You know, it's important to know that there are many
big wave riders in Wedge but Terry Wade,
so far, not just taking off on the biggest wave
ever in history surfing the body in general,
But actually he drives the waves.
And what I saw he did 1983 was the most amazing thing ever
The biggest, biggest wave swells in history for me,
You know, 40 years, and Terry drives the biggest waves.
(cheerful, pop music)
- I was there in 1983 when I saw him
fill this set of monsters and I only see it
and I go, I watch history.
This is outside the graph.
(sobbing) It's amazing.
Sorry.
Anyway, so I'm there and, sorry about that,
But you know, he's very kind friend.
And, you know, that's right It's hard to see what the Wedge is
has been done to him as far as he life.
It's kind of, you know,
We joke around the destroyed Wedge my life
But physically I think that really takes victims
especially him.
And that's sad.
But Terry, you know, he's fair awesome
(bright, picking music)
- [Voiceover] Because a lot of and life-changing wounds
suffering at Wedge, Terry Can no longer surf the body.
He no longer lives in Newport Beach but in Taft, California.
Three hours in the interior.
- If you drive an old Wedge enough, you will get hurt
There is no way to avoid that , it will happen
- I have seen broken arms and broken necks as coast guard
and you will have a dozen neck injuries every summer
Of the dozen you have, there will be one or two
it's serious where is permanently injured
and it's always difficult Look.
- One time in 1978, on a big day
corpses are washed beside big D and me.
We pull it in and they try to revive it
But he, they say it dead
in Hope a few hours later.
- This is how many deaths I've seen in water.
One, two, let's see, one two three four.
Four people die.
- There is a famous story from Wedge these women
the down below burm line on big swell
and coastguards don't do it go down and talk to them
quite early
They only play low and think that water
will clean and get them wet ankle
like an ordinary beach.
Dan Wedge is not normal beach
and they don't know the dangers they enter
And the waves are swept and takes them from their feet
and they leave.
They just disappeared.
- [Voiceover] Others May get stuck, he rolls over.
Look at that, look out, see outside.
You will be hit again.
Seeing.
(screaming woman)
Oh jeez, take the coast guard.
- [Voiceover] Better go.
- [Voiceover] Holy Hell
Oh damn it.
Sucked out
JT, how are you doing?
- He--
- [Voiceover] Is he okay?
- You know how difficult it is to do it Get him--
- [Voiceover] JT, savior.
That's okay, we hope.
His mother or anything that has a difficult time
- [Voiceover] What makes Wedge very dangerous?
- It's just the angle beach
and the way it comes out.
This is a steeper break and it goes into very shallow water
Just go down from the top Rest can enter
there is absolutely no water at all
And if you don't know what you are doing,
or even if you know what you are doing,
Sometimes you fall, free fall, and press the bottom.
(dramatic music)
- [Voiceover] They generally use fin
so they can get enough speed
to lower it before they are thrown.
And that's why we generally try to keep
public inexperienced water
to save them from possible life-threatening injuries
- I have a collar fracture.
Alhamdulillah, I don't have broken neck
There are many things here.
- I stop by around four foot waves
and it's sucked and I'm in over
and I immediately go down and hit my head at the bottom
and break my neck
- You have to be a little crazy though to get out of there when it's like this .
- Of course
- And the Pacific storm has an impact here
stirring high waves and waves of monsters
along the south coast.
- My relationship with Wedge
is, it's almost good like bi-polar almost.
Like, one of those things where there is a hurry
and high and stoke but There are fears like that
death from that
Like, seriously, like, indeed just like one or the other
and that's zero in between.
So, stay there and hear the big waves
All the time, I will be so pumped up
but at the same time I will be like,
tomorrow afternoon I die, You know, is my day drowning?
- If there is a large south swell in California,
guaranteed Wedge will be be a big place, you know
And, that's the nature of animals the Wedge
the dirt will drop on a big and heavy day.
- Big days at the Wedge, there are so many things happening
with that.
You know, can't to sleep the night before
and think about yourself will do
and where you will put yourself.
- [Voiceover] I will only be so nervous that I will almost vomit.
I almost vomited at night before.
I almost vomited in the morning.
- Like, on a big day, not to be scared
or have a little fear, you have to be a little crazy
or actually really crazy.
- You want to survive, you don't want to die
so you think about it.
And you want to appear and so you think about it.
But happy, you know, happy, you can't wait
Because you want it, you want it too but you want to do it right.
- Ride a big wave on the body of the Wedge surfing is the best thing you can do water.
It's like jumping from a cliff and landing it.
And what's big, big, what you usually see
is the top of the roof.
- I've heard it when Waves become very large
You really can go to organize and look at houses
go to the bay, pass the bay.
Which I think is nonsense.
And, swelling also occurs (muttering)
and of course, I go more than one set and I can see
over houses to the back bay
and I like, you have to be kidding me
- You like, here it is.
Your legs cover your head
and you are skinning, you are like, will I remain on the face
or am I flying?
And, you do everything You can navigate that
but nothing else through your brain
besides making me face down
and I'm better off turning to me the bottom.
And when you do it, you come,
and you see interesting people barrel,
it's just all smiles
(people screaming and cheering)
(optimistic, rock music)
- The fact that waves are so close to the beach,
You know, closeness, you get the crowd factor
It doesn't matter if the crowd is there or not,
we will still do what we do
but of course lifting things
and that only adds circus from all places
it's only electricity
- Lots of people on the beach, random, eclectic
from all over the world, tourists, whatever,
just watching and hoping and someone will eat crabs,
break their neck, die
It sounds like it sounds, people want it blood.
- Let's straight up
This is a scene.
It's big, crazy, strong Wave breaks so close to the beach
where is that so the audience friendly.
- And you have water splatter.
I mean like, water has entered people are out
It's almost dangerous that people
even standing so close.
- I mean, what special place, you know.
Every summer it's like equivalent
to Super Bowl body surfing.
All of these elements are united
and you get some crazy out there
Fill this massive wave.
- Things that make So unique, Wedge,
This is a man-made error.
But for us, this is man-made blessing
because we like it and we go out there
and have the time of our lives.
And, it makes us breathe, approximately.
The fact that we can get out There and get our ass kicked
and return to life himself and become humble
and trigger and happy.
So, this is specifically man-made world miracle
(bright, pop music)
(people screaming and cheering)
(buzzing machine)
- [Voiceover] You know, Wedge is our happy home
for decades.
Everyone is a friend.
Everyone likes it.
And then a small discovery comes along.
"There is something really rolling around in the United States
¶The Morey Boogie Bodyboard is here to stay
angkanWell your body in boogie
rGrab Your Morey Boogie
¶Put your body in boogie
an And you should buy a boogie
an And you will surf today
¶ Boogie ¶
- We go down in the water one days
and this goes down with us with this boogie board,
this little little soft sponge looks for something.
And he said, hi, my name is Tom.
I want you to try this board out
They must let you ride waves
and get better rides and goods.
And we looked at it and left, ah, okay, whatever.
He left a few boards under it there
and the next day is beautiful good size waves enter
So, we start using boards and we will kick them
and kick them and you will get Waves
and you will start riding waves and then we will throw them.
And we will throw them, we won't ride the boogie board
We call them diving boards to take offs.
So, you just leave it boogie board to get speed
then go down and go up body waves and waves.
But we don't know that There are photographers there
try to get photos for selling products at that time
and so, when we find there is a photographer,
We never even use it.
You know, we just stopped.
But then Ramon someday, We have a good size.
He takes off the wave and he Is a diving board taking off
But they got the photo
above is really good Peak wedge
Well, that's in the back of the surfer magazine
and that is the beginning of the final as far as it goes.
- The problem is anyone can ride them
That's very easy.
And Father's quote about, can Put the body in boogie
and that will make waves, You know, the type of agreement.
This allows those people shouldn't be out there
to get access to waves.
- [Voiceover] Bodyboard starts to appear
around the mid 80s.
And, at that time not So many threats.
There are only a handful of people who actually drive a place Ben Severson, JP Patterson, Mike Stewart.
- I remember going there
and don't really get most welcome vibration, surely
This is understandable that they might not really be
like me and what I did there
But I think finally, I rather get some respect and I slowly work a little with me the way in
with many of them.
- But, when the photo starts hit the magazine
and it develops, that's all explodes.
- When changing is when,
and not Mike or Pat,
that is hoarding other people
it cannot be controlled self.
They brought it there
and it turns into money makes place
You will see people taking waves, run out,
talking with photographers, running back.
They don't care who they are cut
and it's very diametrically opposed for what Wedge is all about.
It is a dichotomy that is not work.
- When bodyboarding magazine comes out
and start creating profiles Wedge, of course,
and these people, and suddenly It's like a sluice
open and there will be more and more of them.
And, they grow exponentially like amoeba or something, just crazy
- [Voiceover] Is that a boogie?
I'm not shooting boogies.
Oh, shit, that boogie again.
- [Voiceover] Oh Go, not boog.
I just squeaked from them photo frame, Ron.
- Back in the early days, body surfers and knee riders because there there is no boogie board yet,
always hanging out
- If you know who you are deeds,
You can let them ride with ya and you can ride your knees and they will rise behind
and you can still go up waves, you two
But the crowd of boogie boards is clearly not polite
and that's just the whole a different crowd.
- What really is a big problem? crew
is that they are not the most complete water man riding the board mostly time.
There are only a few that are good .
The rest is sucked.
- Something special is happening losing.
Inheritance, way live with water
and body surfing isn't It's not like other sports.
And when people come to your house home
and knock on your door and say,
oh, by the way, we moved and I brought
500 of my closest friends, things won't work well.
(people scream)
- [Voiceover] Altercation.
(people chattering)
- There will be a full fight,
like Romo the backhand people seriously come out there
because they will be impolite
Same as, bro, there are rules,
there is a pecking order Here, there is respect.
And if you are cool with that then we are cool with you
but if you cross that line or you enter and wave the pig,
You know, just that boy one m.
And like Father like king that person
and he will send people in
I mean, he entered it them.
- Remember Romanosky always,
He is always a tough man.
I remember that one day was pretty classic
I can laugh at it now but humans, I want to be fair,
I came really close to only attacking him
And, I'm all triggered, I have this new board , you know
I'm like, oh yeah, I just got a new board
And, I row there and he all,
oh, so cool, I have see.
So, I showed him thought he would look around
To be precise, he forms knee board and the item,
he will get it.
So he grabbed it, look at that , put it on his head
and just fold it above his head.
- [Voiceover] But anyway, a boogie invasion occurs.
And those people said
that they have to do something about that.
Mel Thoman, Terry Wade, and Tom Kennedy
establish a Wedge Community Preservation, or WPS.
- About three months ago, Wedge Preservation Society,
a group of body surfers approach the sea department.
- We go to lifeguards and said hey,
is there anything we can do? somehow, you know,
get this changed
And, so we have an (muttering) process
You must go see the sea department,
lifeguard department, only a large number of things.
- And indeed, the Wedge is set
without flotation from At nine in the morning
for more, five o'clock in the afternoon but from months the first May to 31 October.
- this is out paper and suddenly,
It's like, friends like Bill Sharp
which is one of the knees the riders are there
All the time, he gets Wind, they are not happy.
- I find myself, as a knee dormitory,
just wait, I was swept out outside
with the rest garbage and do what I can
to refute it.
- That is a fun time for our , together as one.
Saying, we need to do something about this
or, literally, the surface of the body will go for one
and two, people will get hurt.
- We get support from other organizations
We take our argument to the city Council.
- Hi, how?
I'm Terry Wade and I co-founder
Wedge Preservation Society.
Body surfers are really not a minority in Wedge.
Minorities in the world surfing, of course
But at Wedge, body surfer,
This may be the last fortress surfing the body
and the fact, historically is the only beach in the world
which makes a name for itself As a body surfing beach.
Undoubtedly it is the best wave in the world to surf the body.
And that's why we are here.
- We are all dressed, suits, ties.
- My name is Philip Castillo and Me too
Pro-Wedge Community Conservation.
- This is a security issue.
You know, the more boards.
It's more and more boards.
- Mayhem in waves, more than one person
they all come dressed in relaxing beaches
and the whole crew, we styling.
So, we present our case and you know,
Newport Beach, they love us (laughs).
- At the final decision, The place is crowded.
I mean, maybe there are five to six hundred
traffic to this place, only standing space
- Let me go back to the board
and see if we can't come with the decision here
it will make everyone go from here smiling
and happy and maybe hit surfing.
- And, finally it ends where three has chosen yay
and three have chosen nay.
- [Voiceover] Mr. Cox?
- I will only comment on that I will not support the movement.
(applause)
- And to this end city council member, a woman,
Maybe 70, have lived in Balboa a long time ago.
And, everything is quiet and everyone is waiting for it response
and he said -
- Well, last night my husband happened to be quite young,
considers himself still a body surfer and my child,
Of course, have a board.
And he (laughs) real conflict.
And, we end up with something very similar
for what (muttering) tonight's motion
and I will support it.
(cheering and applause)
- All hell is released.
We all stand, starting celebrating, hugging,
and there is a giant parade
that's right the way to Malarky's.
(bright, pop music)
- I don't think anyone actually realized
what they stand for until they go there
in summer and you will out and flag the black ball
will appear at 10 hours and all guys
will come out of the water
and you will only go, oh, yes.
- [Voiceover] Boogie dormitory
can smell their styrofoam Goodbye.
Start immediately, knee board, skim board,
and body boards must remain on dry land from 10 to five
May to October.
- Well, as soon as they install a new rule in
Looks like I lost a friend summer.
I mean, you can't go down there and kneel again.
You can go there and body surfing
but that's not my job, I'm a knee rider.
- There will be so many days where
when they first start blackballing,
I remember sitting in a chair Beach like, really,
like and I'm just going to like seeing Mel and Terry
and everyone like that (laugh).
You know, and just laughing it up, get so many waves.
But I turned it on for them.
And then, but you know what's cool about that
is when blackball comes,
My body is surfing more, You know, I'm out
Because I like riding a Wedge.
- I told the other Box days, I said, you know,
if there is something like that cool inheritance
We work with our tails.
We do it the right way and it works, thank God.
I mean, serious, because boogies,
I will not go up there.
Boom, it must be over.
- [Voiceover] Lifeguards believe they will bring boys
from summer a few weeks to catch in.
- So far the Wedge has become only beach
to have a rigid separation between surfers
with the board and without them.
(buzzing machine)
- [Voiceover] Here I am knees lodgers
and I'm stunned from my mind
that people get black balls.
Wedge was pioneered as a wave surfing body
and the city council helps to protect that culture.
But waiting on that road,
people don't really count on that we know over time.
- When a black ball occurs '93,
we all hope that it will happen be a kind of resurrection
in the body of surfing but I think It hits at the right time
when many people are aging
and start a family.
And, they think they will do it it's time to get out there
and take advantage of the freedom they have now
without bodyboarder out there.
And, in fact, it really doesn't happen.
- After our generation starts getting older
and have children and family and many people move,
financially I guess guys can't just take off for summer
and screw again.
Yes know, it happened when you got a mortgage and children
and payment of cars and so on goods.
- Personally, I'm still single longer than most guys.
I am 42 years old, almost 43 years old.
So, I have a good 25 years of non-stop waves,
woman, whiskey, you know (laugh).
(optimistic, folk music)
- When you are young, you go under wave,
This is the big set that entered
You will be under waves and you pray to God
that there is a bigger wave.
I need this to be bigger.
Take it, take it, bring it.
- [Voiceover] Tom Kennedy, perfect day
at Wedge?
- Well, there are lots of girls on the beach (laughs).
- [Voiceover] (laugh) scenery.
- And, I like big waves Of course.
As you get older and you become more wise,
You expect nothing bigger waves.
- Having a family and four my boys will only blink
every time I'm out there when I take a few poundings,
You know
This can be the last, yes, I know, and I like it,
I want to see my children graduate from high school
or get married one day, yeah,
Things start running through my mind
and like athletes know when to go
from their profession or they objects.
(people chattering)
- you have to wash you hands off in the water.
- [Voiceover] Dale goes from vibration distribution
to share goldfish (laugh).
(children chat)
- Yes, you know, there is someone who runs out Kru Wedge
and that's very sad because you don't want to see
division or you don't want to see people move
with their lives
You want to see people still appearing every day
- There was that period, that was 15 to 20 years ago
because of all skimming enter and sponging,
Surfing comes out
and no younger guy do it.
And, some of us worry about surfing the body
actually will die in Wedge.
- With '89 being my year started my Wedge body surfing and become part of groups.
- [Voiceover] Boat, boaty.
Oh where did he go?
- But I remember showing up on beach
and there is no person I know already exists
They all leave.
I was on the beach by myself for days,
driving the waves by yourself with people I don't know
who they are
And, glory The Wedge crew sounds
on the side of the road with The appearance of a boogie board.
That's all.
- The idea of a crew is, and riding a Wedge
put together from the most unexpected place
Some riders from Wedge and that's really shocking
If you look back and think, you know,
some people like Gene.
- The first time I started Wedge,
I'm really not a good body surfer.
I just learned.
I am 42 years old and I am studying sports
So, I was treated like bad for a long time
But, I just stuck it out because I like it
- Gen is a good figure to add
to the 21st century for many of our .
It feels like, okay,
this is the old man pulls a fixed load.
(crashing waves)
- [Voiceover] Mean Gene.
- [Voiceover] is that a gene?
- First child to enter
and start making body Cool surfing is Sean Starky.
There are no other children who fill that gap.
- I remember the body surfing one days, it's two to three feet,
I remember taking the side waving across the sand
and I'm lying there sand
and there is this person, arms cross, look at me,
Super tan at Speedo.
The Potato Head they call him.
Kind of looking at me go, what's your name?
My name is Sean.
It feels like, okay, I like your style man,
I like what you are all about.
You have to come here more often.
Then he just walked away.
- That's when I told myself,
We have a gap here, we need to stop the loss
from young body surfers and we need to start combining
it returns to the Wedge crew and builds our ranks
so we can have it, anytime time,
a force that must be taken into account in water.
Not for delinquency and chaos but friendship,
good times, stories, ride waves,
encourage each other to do bigger, better.
- [Voiceover] Needs for new generation
body surfers are there
And, with the Potato Head being a housewife,
or what you have seen, he saw that he had all the flocks.
- The first experience at Wedge was swimming across the channel
with my cousin Ozzy and The first person I met was Potato
and potatoes like, what are you doing here
And I like, just got some human waves
Potatoes like, your body surfing wrong
So, I like it, okay how do I Do the body surf properly?
And then he seems to do it strange thing
But it's the first, literally the first time
We really come out, have good stuff time
with John, like, first approach him.
- I see it is a work in progress.
The Potato Head is down there is building a new crew.
You can see it has potential and I'm happy to be home
because I want to help Develop it.
- I am rather conscious decision
where I want to be a Wedge tree people,
I want to be part of this.
Of course, you know, after putting in the summer,
they start pay attention to this young man
who is swimming, I will swim in whatever.
- One thing we try to do as an older rider
let them know it there like hierarchy.
For one, I want to get me waves.
But two, want them kindly go through a little
of what I do and what we all do
that makes us better
That doesn't make them reluctant.
That is to make sure they are understood,
we want you to go up here but we want you to go up here
and consider yourself as the best .
We want you to go up and respect the path.
So, we have to be like the type, we want to work it out.
- And, there seems to be, okay,
we have young blood here
We have some fresh items coming in.
We will push the limit.
I want to call them like my stable
from young rippers are out there riding
They are all getting older now
but we filled the pipe full.
Their friend comes down and the right time.
This starts again exciting.
- Potato Head, he really Maybe it's glue
who holds our entire young crew together.
- The first person to speak For me is Gene, surely.
Seeing it say, oh, hey, how? that happened
Or, oh, that's a good wave.
That means the world.
Get recognition from hero
or the person you are looking for to or trying to become
very big
- Like what Gene used to do.
They will talk to you, they will be down there
give your instructions
Oh hey, good riding children, keep it up .
Only small things like that.
Then you will have these other people like Lee
or even some Larsons where it's like,
they won't say a word you and like, it's okay.
You will wait for them words
Because like when they speak For you it's like a big problem.
- The fact that everyone is like a tight knit group
and continue to push each other in the water
That's why you see the type riding
it happens down there
- This is truly a will
for how everyone has each other backs.
- So, whenever someone is injured there,
There is strict unity, sort of brotherhood,
where we always call each other saying,
hey, are you hearing, Who is his name hurt?
Say, oh, is he okay?
No, he is in the hospital.
Well, we will go visit he is here, what happened?
- For Gene, when he was in RSUD,
We have people there almost every day visiting him,
help him and his family out every way we can.
- I hurt myself in March 30 years ago, 2012.
That is a smaller day that changes to
like 10, 12 feet a day, 15 feet later that day
But when I enter 11 or There's not much happening
and I take off like a high head wave,
maybe something like that
I remember I was shot, I slammed very hard.
I see bright light.
Like, this is amazingly bright light
But it's not a spiritual thing
that is my spine exploding i think.
I just came and I know I hurt.
I have broken nine ribs, Do you want to hear this?
I have broken nine ribs, pierced the lungs,
solve numbers T nine, 10, 11 and me spine
and pull out my spinal cord
but I'm not severe my spine rope.
That's why I sit here today.
So, it's a mother fucker.
This pisses me off.
- When he is injured, we, indeed destroy
Because this is the man who drives only because he turns on and drives waves.
This is the last person you want to see hurt, right?
Someone who deserves to go up the place forever
and then some.
But, what happens is he like a positive attitude
and he made it through some extraordinary things.
- I go back to Wedge's first chance I can
and I'm not sure I want to come back but I do
- We can see it coming from where we sit
next to the rock.
We see the Genes running, you see a man's silhouette
bring a stick
Everyone's eyes are bright enough up.
(cheerful, pop music)
- Just like the first time he went down to the beach
I was very teary about it
because he really, you know, I'm like, god damn,
This old man doesn't give up.
- I have grown a lot People approach me and cry
and hug me tell me they are very happy
that I'm fine and fair Wedge spirit
as I feel, already, this is only,
that's a great thing
And, especially Wedge guys,
I really want to thank them because I was only there for me
and I hope so Can be explained better
but that's really great and special experience
for me all my life
I will never forget it
And I thank everyone the time and that's it.
(flapping flag)
(crashing waves)
- Gen, until the day he died, when was he was,
he will be out there, annoying waves, big waves
and he is always pumped.
- He is the best real man
You will never meet in your life.
Welcoming and good for everyone, anyone,
wave rider or not
Not only in Wedge but in life.
That's how it is, that's how it is
- I think Gene's stoke is brought we together
and know what's fun riding
And, I think the legacy of Gene has happened we are aware of
how close we must be to each other .
And, I just remember everyone appeared
for the funeral and how we feel about it.
And how we all feel as brothers again.
Yes know, share our sadness
and that we need to do have each other's backs
and remember how triggered Gene is riding.
When I go to Wedge now,
I thought about it and I smiled.
I don't like crying I just got triggering
Because it's so fun he will have.
da You are still one to break my heart
¶ You still have to rip it off it's separate
¶ You are still calling my name is
olah As if everything I want
emua All I want is pain
daYou are still one to break my heart
¶ You still have to rip it off it's separate
¶ You are still calling my name is
olah As if everything I want
hanyalah All I want is pain ¶
- [Voiceover] warning is a great thing,
things that touch
This brings everyone together, young people, parents
This is cemented group.
Then we got Hurricane Marie.
The biggest storm swell I have ever witnessed
I think at times, this can be waves
has it been a gift from Gene?
(cheerful, electronic music)
- Never been there Mystical storm 20 feet swell
Since the 90s, right?
And you see in a few weeks come out, this can happen.
- This gets all the hype.
Like, oh, okay, surely, will be big, it's up to
This will be a big storm, The corner is right, everything.
I will believe it when I see it.
Then one week of rolling in and estimated type of repair.
Like, oh, okay, this might be shapen up
Still somewhat holding back my excitement to,
and then like the previous two days like,
oh, okay, something happened and we got the waves.
This will line up, it will be, you know,
hopefully ideal
- don't sleep well night before.
I wake up, look at cam, it's pumping.
Down and see the crowd.
It's down, lots of is happening.
- You start getting nervous and like it,
I and other young friends who drive it
just so amped to get this chance
and we know this will happen time.
Like, this swells like our chance to really appear
like a young crew Here, we are here to stay
and we go up well.
(fast, rock music)
rapContraption every night
ikirkan Think of lights
tu It stops all feelings
"It entered under the table
sIs that what they say
an And I'm aiming
¶ gem of a song
baik good appetite
¶ A spread that has been wasted
sIs that what they say
(heavy water)
(crashing waves)
- Hurricane Marie, I mean, as everyone knows and says
is swollen, right?
But what really drives is above for me,
what makes swell so special and so on
that I will always personally remember
not always always will be a wave
but that day really represented
and how symbolic it is
for almost like changes guards.
Seeing everyone like Teddy, Charlie, James,
all of these young people step up up and up is just amazing.
That is a big problem and see all support
Whose parents I can just go
If they want, they can do it burn us
in each if they want and we will be fine with that
But they gave us waves, huh? I know,
gives us the opportunity to prove it yourself.
And, I think they are happy to see what they see.
¶ River river runs
¶ Take me to the sea ¶
- I think as you get older,
You lose your selfishness place.
You realize that what is it, this is a wave,
and that doesn't exist just for us.
It is there for people when we have it,
we will go, oh God, yes, we are the best generation ever,
we have better waves of riders, lots of nonsense
We drive it and everyone loves I t,
that's all there is to it
Everyone is together because we like the waves
and we try to get the stoke
Go to the next generation down.
Even younger children, I Meaning, they have that age
what we have at their age
You can see it and that only makes me feel good
to see children love it place.
¶ I just don't know ¶
- Wedge means everything me.
For me, I think that I am a favorite thing that can happen down there you will take off at a good peak,
catch all the entrances,
they will be in and you see your friend
take off in the next,
You go through your hands up, you know,
That's when you are triggered.
That's good.
That is what Wedge means to me.
- I think the bottom you do it
because it's fun
Life should be fun.
And I say for us, this is the best .
- Wedge is like making my life and it also destroys my life
in many ways.
My neck hurts every morning when I wake up My hips are damaged pretty much
Sometimes I just wake up and I hips hurt.
But literally I will not change anything
That happened to me at Baji
because my friends already met, the waves I got
and only good overall When I'm out there
have done every sacrifice I have to make
really feasible for that wave and that vibration
and everything you send down there.
I will not change it for that world
and I can't wait to show it My child is exactly the same thing
I've arrived down there
and I hope he follows it The footsteps are sure.
- This is one of those things where is where I see
that photo and I see everything post
and I just like that trigger for a new crew
It drives it, like that enjoys it
and it's still the same old Old Wedge is dirty, you know,
it's still the same
anaWhere do I go
¶ I don't know
ana Where do I go ¶
- [Voiceover] My last wave was in the fall of 2008
and that is still in my mind.
I still think about it.
I dream about that.
I have a nightmare about it.
I am a wave rider, knees boarder and Wedge are my place.
adi So I ran running the river
¶ Take me to the sea
¶ As long as you move
akanI will go
¶See that California sun
¶ I know I'm getting closer
¶ I have no purpose
api But I have to go
¶ River river runs
¶ Let the city fade behind me
¶ They will never find me where do I go
¶See that the sun is sinking low
aku Let me take me to the sea
api But I have to go
¶Mmm
¶ Mmm ¶
- Welcome to Coastal Focus.
Long Southern California Already know to surf it
and one of the most unique and a place to surf wild around
is here, in Newport Beach.
I am Sherry Lynn Deganheart,
live with us as we take see Wedge
- [Voiceover] Extraordinary, red flag, black ball and Ivan
all tanning goes here at Baji .
JT, check the unit and he is glad it still exists
- [Voiceover] For now,
one of the top surfers all the time,
Mr. Terry Wade, give a thumb sign,
unfortunately he doesn't realize the waves
doesn't really happen as we speak.
- [Voiceover] Jeff, I have a view here
I like to see (laughs).
This young woman can need to save people,
don't forget that
Beware.
- [Voiceover] What type People are in the Wedge crew?
- [Voiceover] Yes, what kind of person do you have?
- People who are crazy just drive 30 feet of waves
and pick it up and not get hurt.
doop dooply bird
Oh, and this is one truth now.
Hello, sir (laugh)
- [Voiceover] It turns out up Dumbo is down
and, how do you feel? Sir.
- I am very messed up.
I'm really looking forward to ride Dumbo.
- [Voiceover] Is that yours Favorite trip here on D soil?
- All right, you know, I like it a lot
Maybe they will let us go up -
- [Voiceover] Thank you very much many sirs (optimistic, rock music)
- [Voiceover] Ladies and Gentlemen,
He left last week at all
I was a bit wondering if the size of grapefruit
has dropped off altogether
We will interview him when he appears
and we might interview the left testis too.
- [Voiceover] Many of you in the Wedge crew
have wondered how MCCS works
That's Mel Cinema Crewmation Service.
And, I'm happy to show you.
First we have matches,
of course movies,
and my trusted streaming assistance.
You take a match, okay sucker.
Wait, stop
This is not lighting.
- [Voiceover] Look at that
An extraordinary step, I think he might get 20,
20 to 40 points on that one people.
Waving to the crowd.
Perfect execution for contest.
Good job JT.
(optimistic, rock music)
(people cheering)
(people laugh)
- Welcome to Wedge.
Come down, go up a wave your neck
We don't care.
(soft and acoustic music) Referred by: www.subtitlecinema.com