0
00:00:11,000 --> 00:00:20,000
1
00:00:55,588 --> 00:00:58,626
I think people
are interested in trying to find out
2
00:00:58,658 --> 00:01:01,935
what really happened
to our minds
3
00:01:01,961 --> 00:01:04,373
8,000 meters ,
You are in the death zone.
4
00:01:07,534 --> 00:01:09,377
There is a struggle.
5
00:01:09,402 --> 00:01:12,781
There is a fight
in every breath,
6
00:01:12,806 --> 00:01:15,446
in every thought
7
00:01:19,345 --> 00:01:20,653
Everything hurts.
8
00:01:20,680 --> 00:01:24,253
Every member of the body,
every cell scream,
9
00:01:24,284 --> 00:01:27,356
"Oxygen, oxygen, oxygen."
10
00:01:29,422 --> 00:01:32,460
You don't feel cold anymore.
11
00:01:32,492 --> 00:01:35,564
Time seems to still stand.
12
00:01:48,174 --> 00:01:49,915
There are many reasons
to turn around
13
00:01:49,943 --> 00:01:53,891
and only a few reasons
to continue .
14
00:02:02,355 --> 00:02:03,766
In one hand,
15
00:02:03,790 --> 00:02:09,331
people question us
climb mountains like K2.
16
00:02:11,264 --> 00:02:13,175
On the other hand,
17
00:02:13,199 --> 00:02:17,045
they angry
why don't people go up
18
00:02:17,070 --> 00:02:19,311
and save people
19
00:02:19,339 --> 00:02:24,482
in this terrible environment.
20
00:02:24,511 --> 00:02:27,515
Where you will probably be killed
21
00:02:27,547 --> 00:02:29,720
by doing that.
22
00:02:31,684 --> 00:02:34,790
There will be many things
we will not never know,
23
00:02:34,821 --> 00:02:37,563
But the question
you have to ask yourself.
24
00:02:37,590 --> 00:02:40,036
"What will you do?"
25
00:02:51,838 --> 00:02:54,250
Your thoughts, climbers K2 , huh?
26
00:02:54,274 --> 00:02:55,617
This is amazing
27
00:02:55,642 --> 00:02:57,451
There is Nanga.
28
00:02:57,477 --> 00:02:58,477
K2?
29
00:02:58,478 --> 00:02:59,478
Nanga.
Nanga.
30
00:02:59,479 --> 00:03:00,479
Nanga Parbat.
31
00:03:00,480 --> 00:03:02,391
- Yeah.
- Dear God.
32
00:03:02,415 --> 00:03:05,362
And then we will show you K2,
your goal is okay?
33
00:03:05,385 --> 00:03:07,262
p>
34
00:03:19,966 --> 00:03:22,105
We are on our way.
35
00:03:22,135 --> 00:03:23,170
- Up there.
- yes?
36
00:03:48,284 --> 00:03:49,605
Shouts!
37
00:03:49,629 --> 00:03:50,629
You have to run this a little
38
00:03:50,630 --> 00:03:51,630
Because there is a rockfall.
39
00:03:51,631 --> 00:03:52,905
Very?
40
00:03:54,267 --> 00:03:55,371
Go.
Go.
Go.
41
00:03:55,401 --> 00:03:58,541
Dirt.
42
00:04:35,975 --> 00:04:37,352
It's good to go back here,
43
00:04:37,377 --> 00:04:41,189
and like to wake up < br /> for this scene this morning
44
00:04:58,131 --> 00:05:01,772
My belief is that everyone
has a love of climbing.
45
00:05:01,801 --> 00:05:03,474
You know, the first thing
the child wants to do
46
00:05:03,503 --> 00:05:05,039
is climbing something
47
00:05:05,071 --> 00:05:07,108
Rock climbing art
is relearning
48
00:05:07,140 --> 00:05:10,417
what you know intuitively
as a child.
49
00:05:11,844 --> 00:05:13,824
You are very respectful
for this mountain
50
00:05:13,846 --> 00:05:15,951
and all climbers
who did it before you
51
00:05:15,982 --> 00:05:20,158
If you want to have a good story
on birthday party,
52
00:05:20,186 --> 00:05:21,722
You know, you climb Everest,
53
00:05:21,754 --> 00:05:25,065
but K2 really, I think,
for real mountaineers.
54
00:05:25,091 --> 00:05:26,900
- Hello!
- Hello
55
00:05:26,926 --> 00:05:27,926
How are you?
56
00:05:27,927 --> 00:05:29,031
Baik.
57
00:05:36,636 --> 00:05:38,172
Good view, I think.
58
00:05:38,204 --> 00:05:41,083
I think it's quite difficult
to defeat, actually
59
00:05:41,107 --> 00:05:44,850
There's something different
between people from the Himalayas
60
00:05:44,877 --> 00:05:47,187
p>
61
00:05:47,213 --> 00:05:49,819
and from the Western world.
62
00:05:49,849 --> 00:05:52,295
This is very different,
because Westerners,
63
00:05:52,318 --> 00:05:55,026
they are more adventurous
64
00:05:55,054 --> 00:05:58,058
They are more love adventure.
65
00:05:58,091 --> 00:06:00,697
Our people also like adventure,
66
00:06:00,727 --> 00:06:02,263
but they like to climb.
67
00:06:02,295 --> 00:06:04,673
Where are we?
68
00:06:04,697 --> 00:06:05,697
Oh, we are now climb K2.
69
00:06:05,698 --> 00:06:07,541
All right.
70
00:06:07,567 --> 00:06:09,205
Yes.
71
00:06:09,235 --> 00:06:13,411
The first person to climb K2
72
00:06:13,439 --> 00:06:18,445
from my valley,
Achille Compagnoni.
73
00:06:22,048 --> 00:06:23,857
So K2 is our mountain.
74
00:06:23,883 --> 00:06:25,260
Everything is raw.
75
00:06:25,284 --> 00:06:27,958
This is a glacier.
76
00:06:27,987 --> 00:06:30,593
This is a black mountain.
77
00:06:30,623 --> 00:06:34,730
This fills you with respect.
78
00:06:38,331 --> 00:06:43,041
The higher,
the more interesting the result.
79
00:06:43,069 --> 00:06:48,041
So when it comes to climbing
8,000 meters peak,
80
00:06:48,074 --> 00:06:49,451
You want to do it,
81
00:06:49,475 --> 00:06:52,922
but at the same time,
you have this fear.
82
00:06:52,945 --> 00:06:54,424
This is serious.
83
00:06:54,447 --> 00:06:55,926
This is real.
84
00:06:57,116 --> 00:07:00,825
If you make a mistake,
you are history
85
00:07:08,561 --> 00:07:10,939
Finally here.
What a relief.
86
00:07:10,963 --> 00:07:12,965
Fantastic work
87
00:07:12,999 --> 00:07:14,672
Good work.
88
00:07:14,700 --> 00:07:16,839
Let's go up the tent,
the stove goes,
89
00:07:16,869 --> 00:07:18,678
and get ready for tonight.
90
00:07:18,704 --> 00:07:19,944
Good?
91
00:07:19,972 --> 00:07:21,212
Yes.
92
00:07:22,575 --> 00:07:24,885
For three months,
we were on this expedition,
93
00:07:24,911 --> 00:07:29,053
so when we arrived at Camp Four,
it was a magical moment.
94
00:07:29,081 --> 00:07:32,221
The whole earth was beside you.
95
00:07:33,619 --> 00:07:35,292
And then you look behind you.
96
00:07:35,321 --> 00:07:37,130
You see another mountain.
97
00:07:38,858 --> 00:07:40,997
And it's K2.
This is a mountain in the mountain.
98
00:07:41,994 --> 00:07:43,803
Ger will come.
I'm shooting.
99
00:07:43,830 --> 00:07:46,606
I ask Ger,
"How do you feel?"
100
00:07:46,632 --> 00:07:48,509
And you know,
he almost cried
101
00:07:49,535 --> 00:07:52,880
Ah, so happy to be here,
102
00:07:52,905 --> 00:07:55,613
I can almost crying.
103
00:07:55,641 --> 00:07:59,487
& apos; 06, we fail to arrive here
104
00:07:59,512 --> 00:08:01,048
Here we are now,
105
00:08:01,080 --> 00:08:03,720
and that's amazing
106
00:08:03,749 --> 00:08:05,888
You can hear his voice, you know.
107
00:08:05,918 --> 00:08:08,091
"That's something we
already achieved," you know?
108
00:08:08,120 --> 00:08:09,463
"Something's already there."
109
00:08:09,489 --> 00:08:10,991
That's what he said.
110
00:08:23,202 --> 00:08:24,840
We have a brilliant night.
111
00:08:24,871 --> 00:08:25,975
There are no clouds.
112
00:08:26,005 --> 00:08:27,541
Nothing.
113
00:08:30,910 --> 00:08:32,617
And then we go to the top.
114
00:08:49,896 --> 00:08:51,204
- Are you afraid?
- No.
115
00:08:51,230 --> 00:08:52,230
- No?
- Me.
116
00:08:52,231 --> 00:08:54,108
- No.
- I'm afraid to die.
117
00:08:58,571 --> 00:09:02,917
It feels, as a whole, like...
like this is our day
118
00:09:02,942 --> 00:09:07,220
So we moved
along the slope above four.
119
00:09:07,246 --> 00:09:09,385
Fred and I start out
a little slower
120
00:09:09,415 --> 00:09:13,693
We both feel very strong,
very positive
121
00:09:14,887 --> 00:09:16,195
There are perfect conditions.
122
00:09:16,222 --> 00:09:20,295
I mean, we're talking about
one day in a million.
123
00:09:20,326 --> 00:09:24,399
There is no day like this
I can remember ,
124
00:09:24,430 --> 00:09:26,967
because it's warm.
125
00:09:29,335 --> 00:09:33,909
Start quite lightly
to see the route ahead.
126
00:09:33,940 --> 00:09:35,317
And I look up,
127
00:09:35,341 --> 00:09:37,844
see a meeting group
climbers
128
00:09:37,877 --> 00:09:40,483
move very slowly
129
00:09:42,582 --> 00:09:43,822
They don't move.
130
00:09:44,817 --> 00:09:46,626
What do they do?
131
00:09:47,720 --> 00:09:52,226
We back in the past.
132
00:09:54,894 --> 00:09:57,101
We're really late
133
00:09:57,129 --> 00:09:59,803
I don't know anything
we will do it
134
00:09:59,832 --> 00:10:01,709
Very disappointing.
135
00:10:01,734 --> 00:10:05,147
I was so devastated.
136
00:10:05,171 --> 00:10:08,448
You tried hard
for months,
137
00:10:08,474 --> 00:10:12,616
and then you realize
that there is no way
138
00:10:12,645 --> 00:10:14,852
that we will be able to
to the top
139
00:10:14,880 --> 00:10:17,827
and go back down during the day.
140
00:10:19,652 --> 00:10:20,756
We just came down.
141
00:10:20,786 --> 00:10:22,561
Simple like that.
142
00:10:28,661 --> 00:10:32,108
Everyone thinks so
down is a little easy.
143
00:10:32,131 --> 00:10:33,974
Makes sense,
144
00:10:34,000 --> 00:10:37,038
but don't trust
for one minute
145
00:10:42,975 --> 00:10:46,354
I climbed on & apos; 54 for my country,
146
00:10:46,379 --> 00:10:47,585
for Italy
147
00:10:48,781 --> 00:10:52,058
At that time,
It seems like suicide.
148
00:10:52,084 --> 00:10:56,260
Nobody knows what will happen
to the human body or mind
149
00:10:56,288 --> 00:10:58,495
at that height
150
00:11:00,426 --> 00:11:03,430
They tested us
in a silly way
151
00:11:03,462 --> 00:11:05,271
for months.
152
00:11:05,297 --> 00:11:06,298
I don't care
153
00:11:08,167 --> 00:11:11,876
Of the 11 climbers
selected for the K2 expedition,
154
00:11:11,904 --> 00:11:15,909
I, Walter Bonatti,
are the youngest.
155
00:11:18,778 --> 00:11:21,349
I should have died in K2.
156
00:11:23,049 --> 00:11:26,030
But it happened
to influence me most deeply
157
00:11:26,052 --> 00:11:27,998
After climbing.
158
00:11:30,156 --> 00:11:32,295
That's the story.
159
00:11:46,939 --> 00:11:48,979
Many other climbers
ever existed on Everest
160
00:11:49,008 --> 00:11:52,546
or else...
8,000 other before K2.
161
00:11:52,578 --> 00:11:56,685
I am not more height of 6,200.
162
00:11:56,716 --> 00:12:00,926
I just want to come along
to see how high I can get.
163
00:12:02,555 --> 00:12:04,626
When we finally get
to jam,
164
00:12:04,657 --> 00:12:07,501
actually a-
crashes.
165
00:12:26,045 --> 00:12:28,924
Serac is the main danger.
166
00:12:28,948 --> 00:12:32,452
It is possible that
is almost 100 meters high,
167
00:12:32,485 --> 00:12:35,056
a little protrude.
168
00:12:35,087 --> 00:12:36,760
And it can crack at any time.
169
00:12:41,193 --> 00:12:46,108
This place is very, very smooth
170
00:12:46,132 --> 00:12:47,668
is famous.
171
00:12:47,700 --> 00:12:49,907
Ice can go down at any time.
172
00:12:49,935 --> 00:12:51,278
This is Russian roulette.
173
00:12:51,303 --> 00:12:53,078
That's what it is.
174
00:12:54,573 --> 00:12:57,486
The main tactic what should be avoided
the danger of serac
175
00:12:57,510 --> 00:12:59,114
is to be fast,
176
00:12:59,145 --> 00:13:02,456
to minimize the time
when you get hit by it.
177
00:13:02,481 --> 00:13:05,553
It's not with good feeling,
waiting there
178
00:13:07,286 --> 00:13:11,200
We really respect
for serac, yes
179
00:13:11,223 --> 00:13:14,295
We know that it is...
180
00:13:14,326 --> 00:13:17,364
Little monsters up there.
181
00:13:25,371 --> 00:13:30,047
I put ice screws in...
182
00:13:30,075 --> 00:13:32,021
You have lots of people
come back
183
00:13:32,044 --> 00:13:36,015
with all the weight < br /> It's on the rope,
184
00:13:36,048 --> 00:13:38,995
it pulls the screw.
185
00:13:39,018 --> 00:13:41,191
Now that's a concern.
186
00:13:42,955 --> 00:13:48,166
Above 8,000,
You can only trust yourself.
187
00:13:48,194 --> 00:13:49,639
We want to cross
out to the right
188
00:13:49,662 --> 00:13:53,405
to rest
outside the rope remains.
189
00:13:53,432 --> 00:13:56,538
It's tiring
waiting in line.
190
00:13:56,569 --> 00:13:58,480
You can't climb
at your own pace.
191
00:13:59,705 --> 00:14:01,981
Some others
also want to wait there
192
00:14:02,007 --> 00:14:04,214
until people have passed.
193
00:14:08,113 --> 00:14:09,786
The bigger the chain, the greater the
194
00:14:09,815 --> 00:14:11,726
the chance is
195
00:14:11,750 --> 00:14:14,162
that someone
in this chain
196
00:14:14,186 --> 00:14:17,099
who, you know,
made a mistake
197
00:14:19,592 --> 00:14:23,335
Dren, he let go of the rope
/> and try to get past me.
198
00:14:25,164 --> 00:14:26,199
Aah!
199
00:14:46,418 --> 00:14:48,159
We're all shocked
When he falls,
200
00:14:48,187 --> 00:14:50,997
But when he stops,
201
00:14:51,023 --> 00:14:52,696
> he stood up and waved.
202
00:14:52,725 --> 00:14:54,227
So we thought he was fine.
203
00:14:54,260 --> 00:14:55,295
He stood up.
204
00:14:55,327 --> 00:14:57,705
He was fine.
205
00:14:57,730 --> 00:15:01,906
But then we see it
falling again
206
00:15:03,035 --> 00:15:04,776
Yes, right on the edge.
207
00:15:04,803 --> 00:15:05,803
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
208
00:15:06,972 --> 00:15:10,112
- What happened?
- What did you see?
209
00:15:10,142 --> 00:15:12,952
Yes, Chhiring,
this is Eric, Camp Four, ends.
210
00:15:12,978 --> 00:15:15,720
I take my camera,
and I zoom in,
212
00:15:20,019 --> 00:15:23,489
How is someone can fall?
on this perfect day?
213
00:15:23,522 --> 00:15:25,092
There is no wind
This is bright.
214
00:15:25,124 --> 00:15:26,831
That's good.
215
00:15:26,859 --> 00:15:28,964
How is that possible ?
216
00:15:28,994 --> 00:15:31,201
Chhiring, I understand
217
00:15:31,230 --> 00:15:33,938
that you and Pemba are climbing.
219
00:15:37,002 --> 00:15:38,140
More.
221
00:15:40,572 --> 00:15:43,075
He is here.
222
00:15:43,108 --> 00:15:44,416
There is that stone.
224
00:15:51,044 --> 00:15:46,514
- Yeah.
- Lower this
227
00:15:50,416 --> 00:15:52,919
He is still alive.
228
00:15:52,952 --> 00:15:54,454
We have to do something.
231
00:15:58,027 --> 00:16:00,431
>
232
00:16:00,459 --> 00:16:02,029
Chhiring, do you know if...
if everyone
233
00:16:02,061 --> 00:16:03,506
falls at this point?
234
00:16:09,268 --> 00:16:11,839
More.
235
00:16:11,870 --> 00:16:15,818
Should we turn around,
you know, to try to help?
236
00:16:15,841 --> 00:16:17,752
We talked about it,
and then we said,
237
00:16:17,776 --> 00:16:20,154
"Listen, people Serbia will go down. "
238
00:16:20,179 --> 00:16:22,022
" We know Americans
are there, you know
239
00:16:22,047 --> 00:16:24,755
"I think that doesn't make sense,
you know, for down. "
240
00:16:28,287 --> 00:16:31,894
There is no big conversation
241
00:16:31,924 --> 00:16:35,235
with each other about the accident.
242
00:16:41,200 --> 00:16:43,077
After three, four minutes,
243
00:16:43,102 --> 00:16:45,104
They start climbing again
244
00:16:53,544 --> 00:16:55,024
I like,
"I will save this person."
245
00:16:55,047 --> 00:16:56,151
"I will save him."
246
00:16:56,181 --> 00:16:57,683
"There is no way he will die, "
247
00:16:57,716 --> 00:17:00,492
" Not today, it's impossible. "
248
00:17:00,519 --> 00:17:02,328
" That won't happen. "
249
00:17:02,354 --> 00:17:04,800
I just shot.
250
00:17:10,896 --> 00:17:14,002
He hit the rock,
lost control,
251
00:17:14,033 --> 00:17:16,411
keeps falling
for another 200 meters,
252
00:17:16,435 --> 00:17:17,436
and stops.
253
00:17:17,469 --> 00:17:20,040
Then I start going down.
254
00:17:20,072 --> 00:17:21,608
There may be two people
below me,
255
00:17:21,640 --> 00:17:26,487
so I go down pretty fast,
maybe & apos; IO minutes.
256
00:17:26,512 --> 00:17:29,083
He's wrapped in a rope
257
00:17:29,114 --> 00:17:32,220
and just doesn't sign
live.
258
00:17:32,251 --> 00:17:37,792
It's very pale and gray,
259
00:17:37,823 --> 00:17:42,329
a wound on the head,
black nose, broken,
260
00:17:42,361 --> 00:17:43,499
blood from mouth
261
00:17:43,529 --> 00:17:45,065
- Done
- complete total, almost.
262
00:17:57,976 --> 00:17:59,717
If I know that Dren is dead,
263
00:17:59,745 --> 00:18:01,156
I will not go up.
264
00:18:06,552 --> 00:18:08,122
>
265
00:18:08,153 --> 00:18:09,632
Serbs,
they want to bring it
266
00:18:09,655 --> 00:18:11,931
down to base camp
267
00:18:11,957 --> 00:18:13,732
I said it was impossible.
268
00:18:13,759 --> 00:18:16,000
"What we can do is we can "
269
00:18:16,028 --> 00:18:18,440
"and give him
a burial right there."
270
00:18:19,731 --> 00:18:22,211
To be honest, what's the point
lowering the body
271
00:18:22,234 --> 00:18:25,681
from 8,150 meters to 7,800?
272
00:18:29,374 --> 00:18:32,787
8,000 meters,
You are in the death zone.
273
00:18:32,811 --> 00:18:35,087
Each step is a burden.
274
00:18:35,114 --> 00:18:39,062
But if you have a body,
This is is a terrible burden.
275
00:18:39,084 --> 00:18:41,564
Okay, we have to go down
like this, guys
276
00:18:41,587 --> 00:18:43,032
- Yes, yes.
- whoop
277
00:18:43,055 --> 00:18:45,092
278
00:18:45,124 --> 00:18:46,159
Yes.
279
00:18:46,191 --> 00:18:48,671
If you fall,
you release it, okay?
280
00:18:48,694 --> 00:18:52,005
It & apos; s-it & apos; s-it & apos; s-
that's our life too okay?
281
00:18:52,030 --> 00:18:53,475
- Yeah, yeah
- remember
282
00:18:53,499 --> 00:18:55,911
Jehan Baig, from Pakistan,
283
00:18:55,934 --> 00:18:58,847
Suddenly it starts acting
very strange.
284
00:19:01,640 --> 00:19:03,813
He goes down
on my right side,
285
00:19:03,842 --> 00:19:05,219
holds the rope,
286
00:19:05,244 --> 00:19:07,884
walking around my lower leg,
287
00:19:07,913 --> 00:19:09,017
and we cry...
288
00:19:09,047 --> 00:19:10,720
Remove the rope!
289
00:19:10,749 --> 00:19:12,160
Remove the rope!
290
00:19:18,323 --> 00:19:22,203
He did not take a single step
to stop his fall.
291
00:19:22,227 --> 00:19:24,002
Jesus Christ.
292
00:19:24,029 --> 00:19:26,009
On the contrary, he just let go,
293
00:19:26,031 --> 00:19:28,102
and he shot like a rocket
294
00:19:28,133 --> 00:19:29,908
Jump into the open air
295
00:19:29,935 --> 00:19:32,506
and just disappear.
296
00:19:41,146 --> 00:19:43,183
Oh, K2,
297
00:19:43,215 --> 00:19:46,321
That's full of surprises.
298
00:19:46,351 --> 00:19:50,231
Conquest on & apos; 54
is much more complicated
299
00:19:50,255 --> 00:19:53,498
than we
can ever imagine
300
00:19:53,525 --> 00:19:56,734
But believe me,
we come ready
301
00:19:56,762 --> 00:19:59,368
We are 11 climbers.
302
00:19:59,398 --> 00:20:04,347
With us, 13 Hunzas
and Balti battalions,
303
00:20:04,369 --> 00:20:07,748
who are humble,
outstanding local porters
304
00:20:07,773 --> 00:20:10,151
After endless months
from preparation,
305
00:20:10,175 --> 00:20:14,453
It starts with a fantastic march
to the foot of the top
306
00:20:14,479 --> 00:20:17,153
through exotic,
eternal scenery
307
00:20:27,759 --> 00:20:32,708
We surround the mountain
for two months tiring.
308
00:20:32,731 --> 00:20:34,404
We set up base camp
309
00:20:34,433 --> 00:20:36,709
and then start building camps
310
00:20:36,735 --> 00:20:38,942
Along the way up the mountain,
311
00:20:38,971 --> 00:20:42,919
adjust to our bodies < br> to altitude,
312
00:20:42,941 --> 00:20:45,217
which is unknown,
313
00:20:45,244 --> 00:20:47,952
prepare ourselves
for the ultimate effort -
314
00:20:47,980 --> 00:20:50,688
anything to help us survive.
315
00:21:02,861 --> 00:21:06,809
To commemorate Art Gilkey,
Dudley Wolfe, Install Kitar.
316
00:21:06,832 --> 00:21:10,177
1954. unreliable
317
00:21:10,202 --> 00:21:12,273
& apos; 94.
318
00:21:12,304 --> 00:21:13,476
There are many people
319
00:21:13,505 --> 00:21:15,348
who just died on the way down
from the top.
320
00:21:15,374 --> 00:21:16,374
Yes.
321
00:21:16,375 --> 00:21:19,083
Dead to... dies of offspring.
322
00:21:19,111 --> 00:21:21,955
Almost everyone
you can read it,
323
00:21:21,980 --> 00:21:22,980
"Died while going down."
324
00:21:22,981 --> 00:21:24,460
Yes.
325
00:21:24,483 --> 00:21:26,224
This is the original cross.
326
00:21:47,039 --> 00:21:49,349
Everyone says,
all Westerners,
327
00:21:49,374 --> 00:21:52,184
p>
328
00:21:52,210 --> 00:21:54,918
even our Sherpa community,
329
00:21:54,946 --> 00:21:58,052
they said to me,
"Why did you go to K2?"
330
00:21:58,083 --> 00:22:02,589
"Because it's too dangerous"
332
00:22:18,236 --> 00:22:20,273
"and the accident rate
is too high."
333
00:22:20,305 --> 00:22:21,978
If you go up in K2,
you have to trust each other.
334
00:22:22,007 --> 00:22:23,281
Fully 200%.
335
00:22:23,308 --> 00:22:26,619
Gerard said, "Hey, listen."
336
00:22:26,645 --> 00:22:28,716
"It would be nice
if I could bring Pemba."
337
00:22:28,747 --> 00:22:30,920
And Pemba was a Sherpa,
338
00:22:30,949 --> 00:22:33,395
but many people
are thinking about Sherpa
339
00:22:33,418 --> 00:22:36,024
that he is just an ordinary person
340
00:22:36,054 --> 00:22:39,592
who raised goods
up the mountain
341
00:22:39,624 --> 00:22:41,194
But Pemba is really...
342
00:22:41,226 --> 00:22:43,536
He is a professional climber
like us
343
00:22:43,562 --> 00:22:45,235
You have a good trip, bro
344
00:22:45,263 --> 00:22:46,799
Yes, yes.
345
00:22:46,832 --> 00:22:48,243
- fantastic
/> - What is your question?
346
00:22:48,266 --> 00:22:50,246
Do we need
boiling rice in-the-bag?
347
00:22:50,268 --> 00:22:51,770
Take good care.
348
00:22:51,803 --> 00:22:53,248
You know, yes,
that's one thing
349
00:22:53,271 --> 00:22:55,046
that I'm worried about
whether it's Pemba
350
00:22:55,073 --> 00:22:57,110
may not be too first
to freeze dry food.
351
00:22:58,477 --> 00:23:00,582
Oh no, but we have
real rice too
352
00:23:00,612 --> 00:23:01,886
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
353
00:23:01,913 --> 00:23:03,324
Action.
354
00:23:03,348 --> 00:23:04,383
Hey.
355
00:23:04,416 --> 00:23:06,896
I found a good friend
in Gerard.
356
00:23:06,918 --> 00:23:10,593
He is a climber who has
Ambition just like me.
357
00:23:10,622 --> 00:23:12,226
Then You push the boundary,
358
00:23:12,257 --> 00:23:14,259
you know, higher and, yes,
359
00:23:14,292 --> 00:23:17,569
and then end
in the Himalayas.
360
00:23:17,596 --> 00:23:18,631
Whoa!
361
00:23:18,663 --> 00:23:20,040
- Hey
- what?
362
00:23:20,065 --> 00:23:21,738
Hey!
363
00:23:24,403 --> 00:23:26,405
Ger is a very high quality climber,
364
00:23:26,438 --> 00:23:27,940
and besides,
365
00:23:27,973 --> 00:23:29,816
>
366
00:23:29,841 --> 00:23:33,880
he is a very social child,
367
00:23:41,386 --> 00:23:44,230
more socially
then the average climber.
368
00:23:44,256 --> 00:23:46,133
The most important thing
for all expeditions this
369
00:23:46,158 --> 00:23:48,138
is for fun
370
00:23:51,263 --> 00:23:52,263
and laughs
with your friends.
371
00:23:54,433 --> 00:23:56,743
Thank you.
372
00:23:56,768 --> 00:23:58,179
There are two people
I've met in my life
373
00:23:58,203 --> 00:24:01,480
who can walk in a room
374
00:24:01,506 --> 00:24:03,486
and basically change
energy in the room,
375
00:24:06,344 --> 00:24:10,315
and Ger McDonnell
is one of them
376
00:24:10,348 --> 00:24:12,089
He does many things,
and he does 150%
377
00:24:18,890 --> 00:24:21,928
whatever he chooses to do
378
00:24:21,960 --> 00:24:24,236
and Denali
are the highest mountains
379
00:24:24,262 --> 00:24:25,832
in North America.
380
00:24:25,864 --> 00:24:30,813
I wonder how my reaction is
to the height of
381
00:24:35,841 --> 00:24:38,185
Me and Mike above.
382
00:24:43,081 --> 00:24:44,526
Minus 20.
383
00:24:45,717 --> 00:24:46,957
Denali has a
384
00:24:46,985 --> 00:24:52,059
sort of certain mystic,
magical power over Ger.
385
00:24:55,193 --> 00:24:57,799
That was the beginning of
big boys,
386
00:24:57,829 --> 00:24:58,864
Big climbs.
387
00:25:02,467 --> 00:25:05,880
2003, I was the leader of the expedition
388
00:25:05,904 --> 00:25:07,815
on Mount Everest.
389
00:25:07,839 --> 00:25:08,874
We have a small team.
390
00:25:09,941 --> 00:25:11,181
Ger, he is very excited,
391
00:25:11,209 --> 00:25:12,517
and he explodes full of energy.
392
00:25:12,544 --> 00:25:13,784
Ireland!
393
00:25:13,812 --> 00:25:15,314
My Irish
394
00:25:15,347 --> 00:25:18,885
He knows how dangerous it is,
Actually, climbing that mountain.
395
00:25:18,917 --> 00:25:20,794
He knows more than 8,000 meters,
396
00:25:20,819 --> 00:25:22,890
it is not called "death zone"
for nothing
397
00:25:22,921 --> 00:25:25,834
Every blood cell in your body
is lacking in oxygen,
398
00:25:25,857 --> 00:25:28,098
that turns off your brain cells.
399
00:25:28,126 --> 00:25:31,073
Making logical decisions
becomes more difficult
400
00:25:31,096 --> 00:25:34,009
The longer you do it
at high altitude,
401
00:25:34,032 --> 00:25:36,410
the more vulnerable you are
to your entire body
402
00:25:36,434 --> 00:25:38,243
disintegration from within.
403
00:25:38,270 --> 00:25:39,408
This creates mucus.
404
00:25:39,437 --> 00:25:40,848
This creates fluid.
405
00:25:40,872 --> 00:25:44,046
This actually starts to swell
brain, lungs,
406
00:25:44,075 --> 00:25:46,248
until, finally,
you won't survive
407
00:25:48,580 --> 00:25:51,060
In the highlands
mountaineering,
408
00:25:51,082 --> 00:25:53,153
there is an unwritten code
409
00:25:53,184 --> 00:25:55,664
If that is the case
that someone are dying,
410
00:25:55,687 --> 00:25:58,566
and you know you will succeed
Your life is at risk,
411
00:25:58,590 --> 00:25:59,625
You must leave them.
412
00:26:01,826 --> 00:26:04,602
This 8,000 meter item
It's foreign to me at this time,
413
00:26:04,629 --> 00:26:07,007
so I just follow
direction, you know
414
00:26:09,467 --> 00:26:11,743
Down, Pat is in a bad condition
415
00:26:11,770 --> 00:26:14,910
and seems to move
very slowly
416
00:26:14,940 --> 00:26:16,715
and stop to rest.
417
00:26:16,741 --> 00:26:20,484
And when I see that display
on Pat's face...
418
00:26:24,482 --> 00:26:27,190
ah, damn
419
00:26:28,553 --> 00:26:30,157
I get pulmonary edema,
420
00:26:30,188 --> 00:26:32,794
cerebral edema, thrombosis.
421
00:26:32,824 --> 00:26:36,067
I lose oxygen,
and I start to die.
422
00:26:37,362 --> 00:26:40,343
There is... no energy in there.
423
00:26:40,365 --> 00:26:45,110
And more than just lack of energy,
there is...
424
00:26:45,136 --> 00:26:47,013
actually, I think
there is awareness
425
00:26:47,038 --> 00:26:48,574
lack of energy ,
426
00:26:48,607 --> 00:26:50,883
and I think there is
also knowledge
427
00:26:50,909 --> 00:26:53,685
that he knows it himself
that he is in trouble
428
00:26:53,712 --> 00:26:57,057
Pemba Gyalje
and, in particular, Ger
429
00:26:57,082 --> 00:27:00,222
are people
that encourage me.
430
00:27:00,251 --> 00:27:02,424
Yay!
431
00:27:02,454 --> 00:27:05,492
If my team member
doesn't help that day,
432
00:27:05,523 --> 00:27:07,969
I might be very good myself
433
00:27:07,993 --> 00:27:12,135
studded with rocks
from Mount Everest forever,
434
00:27:12,163 --> 00:27:15,007
never returned home
to see my family
435
00:27:19,838 --> 00:27:21,681
They said
that was the most important
436
00:27:21,706 --> 00:27:22,810
when you went climbing
437
00:27:22,841 --> 00:27:25,822
will choose
a good climbing pair
438
00:27:25,844 --> 00:27:27,983
or someone
that you are compatible with
439
00:27:28,013 --> 00:27:31,483
I've... I'm lucky,
you know , really.
440
00:27:34,919 --> 00:27:37,297
There is Speedy Gonzales,
441
00:27:37,322 --> 00:27:39,996
Pemba Gyalje.
442
00:27:41,993 --> 00:27:46,772
Pemba is one person
Ger wants to climb K2 with,
443
00:27:46,798 --> 00:27:50,041
and they talked about it
for years.
444
00:27:50,068 --> 00:27:52,605
He likes climbing mountains.
He knows he can do it.
445
00:27:52,637 --> 00:27:54,810
He loves the mountain.
446
00:27:54,839 --> 00:27:57,183
He loves the mountain.
447
00:28:01,479 --> 00:28:02,479
p>
448
00:28:03,715 --> 00:28:05,388
Chhiring,
do you know that everyone
449
00:28:05,417 --> 00:28:07,021
dropped at this point?
450
00:28:07,052 --> 00:28:08,656
More.
451
00:28:08,687 --> 00:28:11,691
When the accident occurred,
Gerard also asked,
452
00:28:11,723 --> 00:28:14,704
"Do we have enough time?
to reach the top, huh?"
453
00:28:14,726 --> 00:28:16,171
"Aren't we late?"
454
00:28:16,194 --> 00:28:17,468
And Pemba said, "No, no."
455
00:28:17,495 --> 00:28:19,304
"We can reach the top."
456
00:28:19,330 --> 00:28:20,832
"It's enough time."
457
00:28:20,865 --> 00:28:21,969
Then we say, " All right. "
458
00:28:22,000 --> 00:28:24,606
" So this is the decision,
to continue. "
459
00:28:24,636 --> 00:28:27,207
So we just moved.
460
00:28:43,221 --> 00:28:45,861
We have a big Korean team in front .
461
00:28:45,890 --> 00:28:47,631
Then you have
your Norwegian,
462
00:28:47,659 --> 00:28:48,659
then we are in the middle,
463
00:28:48,660 --> 00:28:51,266
with the Spanish man in front.
464
00:28:51,296 --> 00:28:53,401
I keep climbing.
465
00:28:53,431 --> 00:28:56,605
I'm not waiting for
466
00:28:56,634 --> 00:29:01,049
I don't see anyone else
until I go down.
467
00:29:07,679 --> 00:29:09,659
We climb,
climb, climb,
468
00:29:09,681 --> 00:29:11,957
and then you see the first person
reach the top,
469
00:29:11,983 --> 00:29:12,983
and then you think,
470
00:29:12,984 --> 00:29:14,292
"Please let that be the end,"
471
00:29:14,319 --> 00:29:17,232
you know, because you
really ,
472
00:29:17,255 --> 00:29:18,598
You know, tired.
473
00:29:22,994 --> 00:29:24,837
At the last moment,
474
00:29:24,863 --> 00:29:29,278
you really live fully.
475
00:29:29,300 --> 00:29:31,439
I know the peak
I am waiting for me
476
00:29:31,469 --> 00:29:32,504
I have won it.
477
00:29:37,776 --> 00:29:40,188
Alberto
is a kind of mythical figure.
478
00:29:41,279 --> 00:29:44,123
So I didn't see Alberto
close it completely
479
00:29:44,149 --> 00:29:48,029
until I met him
When he was on his way down.
480
00:29:48,052 --> 00:29:50,965
Then I asked him
how far it was
481
00:29:50,989 --> 00:29:54,493
Dan dia berkata, "Iya,
kurang dari satu jam. "
482
00:30:16,514 --> 00:30:18,994
At any time, you realize
that it is within your reach.
483
00:30:19,017 --> 00:30:21,088
You will feel it
that you will succeed.
484
00:30:21,119 --> 00:30:22,894
It's only a matter of time
485
00:30:22,921 --> 00:30:25,231
to keep going
to reach the top.
486
00:30:49,047 --> 00:30:50,890
Yes!
487
00:30:54,719 --> 00:30:58,326
Gerard, Gus, Pemba...
488
00:30:59,457 --> 00:31:00,959
More
489
00:31:00,992 --> 00:31:02,300
We are at the top of K2!
490
00:31:02,327 --> 00:31:03,397
Whoo-hoo!
491
00:31:03,428 --> 00:31:06,170
Yo yo yo.
492
00:31:06,197 --> 00:31:11,579
The light is amazing,
brilliant, you know
493
00:31:11,603 --> 00:31:14,675
We are at the end of the earth,
494
00:31:14,706 --> 00:31:16,652
Heaven is almost
495
00:31:20,712 --> 00:31:22,692
You think, you know,
"Here it is," You know?
496
00:31:22,714 --> 00:31:25,194
"It's over, we've done it."
497
00:31:36,928 --> 00:31:39,465
This is definitely the extreme place
,
498
00:31:39,497 --> 00:31:43,946
but with the extreme
come very pretty
499
00:31:46,738 --> 00:31:49,184
In many ways,
very extreme,
500
00:31:49,207 --> 00:31:50,880
they are addictive
501
00:31:58,917 --> 00:32:00,191
We are all very strong.
502
00:32:00,218 --> 00:32:02,391
We usually talk.
503
00:32:02,420 --> 00:32:04,627
We have no problems
with altitude
504
00:32:04,656 --> 00:32:06,499
We feel very good.
505
00:32:06,524 --> 00:32:08,970
We are having fun
at the top,
506
00:32:08,993 --> 00:32:11,064
and now we will go down.
507
00:32:11,095 --> 00:32:12,301
Marco came.
508
00:32:12,330 --> 00:32:14,037
He said, "Someone
must take a picture of me."
509
00:32:14,065 --> 00:32:15,635
So I said, "Yes, yes,
up, up."
510
00:32:15,667 --> 00:32:17,203
"Fast, Fast."
511
00:32:21,506 --> 00:32:22,849
Still clear.
512
00:32:22,874 --> 00:32:24,217
It's not dark yet.
513
00:32:24,242 --> 00:32:28,349
But the sun will go down.
514
00:32:31,983 --> 00:32:33,053
Then you realize,
515
00:32:33,084 --> 00:32:35,997
"Fuck, we have to go down,"
You know? "
516
00:32:36,020 --> 00:32:38,694
Now the beginning that still exists.
517
00:32:56,941 --> 00:32:58,887
President McAleese
has said his thoughts
518
00:32:58,910 --> 00:33:01,413
with the family
from a Limerick man County
519
00:33:01,446 --> 00:33:02,754
which is among the nine climbers
520
00:33:02,780 --> 00:33:04,418
hilang dan takut mati
di Himalaya.
521
00:33:04,449 --> 00:33:07,191
Icefall in the world
the second highest peak
522
00:33:07,218 --> 00:33:10,495
that might have killed
as many as a dozen climbers.
523
00:33:10,521 --> 00:33:12,000
With a dozen
of them caught
524
00:33:12,023 --> 00:33:13,593
in the collapse of the enemy bells
525
00:33:13,624 --> 00:33:14,864
just below the top...
526
00:33:14,892 --> 00:33:17,236
Straddling the border
from Pakistan and China,
527
00:33:17,261 --> 00:33:20,299
K2 is a little smaller
from Mount Everest,
528
00:33:20,331 --> 00:33:24,108
but his reputation
is always much bigger
529
00:33:24,135 --> 00:33:26,308
And another Pakistani citizen,
a French citizen,
530
00:33:26,337 --> 00:33:28,647
and the Austrians are gone.
531
00:33:30,408 --> 00:33:32,786
They meet on Friday,
Friday August 1st.
532
00:33:32,810 --> 00:33:35,552
I mean, come Saturday,
533
00:33:35,580 --> 00:33:37,651
only-internet
full of stories.
534
00:33:41,085 --> 00:33:42,462
You have Fredrik Strang's story
535
00:33:42,487 --> 00:33:44,728
about interesting bodies
from the mountain
536
00:33:44,756 --> 00:33:48,294
Wrong one climber,
an American man, Nick Rice,
537
00:33:48,326 --> 00:33:50,602
have a blog on Sunday,
538
00:33:50,628 --> 00:33:52,266
and he says that Ger
539
00:33:52,296 --> 00:33:54,537
refuses to go down
Mount.
540
00:33:54,565 --> 00:33:57,341
I mean, he said, "Refuse
down the mountain."
541
00:33:57,368 --> 00:34:00,349
Anyone who knows Ger
knows what Ger means.
542
00:34:00,371 --> 00:34:03,875
Something went wrong.
543
00:34:03,908 --> 00:34:07,287
Someone might throw
some comments on their blog
544
00:34:07,311 --> 00:34:09,222
about what they think
might happen
545
00:34:09,247 --> 00:34:11,955
or, you know,
some rumors they hear
546
00:34:11,983 --> 00:34:13,690
and don't realize, like,
547
00:34:13,718 --> 00:34:18,963
"Hey, let's wait
for the people we love."
548
00:34:18,990 --> 00:34:21,334
We depend
in each word
549
00:34:21,359 --> 00:34:23,532
and even how it was written
550
00:34:23,561 --> 00:34:27,475
to get some sort of hint
of what's going on
551
00:34:33,304 --> 00:34:36,114
Those people
552
00:34:36,140 --> 00:34:38,381
even during the tragedy
still going on,
553
00:34:38,409 --> 00:34:39,717
Actually on the mountain.
554
00:34:39,744 --> 00:34:42,486
So come down,
you are a little awkward
555
00:34:42,513 --> 00:34:44,390
This... this isn't a problem...
556
00:34:44,415 --> 00:34:46,122
It's always the same.
557
00:34:46,150 --> 00:34:48,187
A true hero, you don't hear it.
558
00:34:51,756 --> 00:34:53,497
The fool is,
559
00:34:53,524 --> 00:34:55,970
if we are definitely
successful, we are,
560
00:34:55,993 --> 00:34:58,132
because we arrived at the top,
561
00:34:58,162 --> 00:35:00,403
there is only
like a small piece
562
00:35:00,431 --> 00:35:02,877
in the newspaper, you know
563
00:35:02,900 --> 00:35:05,972
And now,
because 11 climbers died,
564
00:35:06,003 --> 00:35:08,040
went all over the world
565
00:35:09,807 --> 00:35:14,256
Everyone wants to know < br /> how is it possible
566
00:35:16,647 --> 00:35:18,422
What happens to us
567
00:35:18,449 --> 00:35:23,125
is only a matter of misfortune,
do you know?
568
00:35:25,389 --> 00:35:30,498
That is a success story
until we go to the top.
569
00:35:50,715 --> 00:35:53,491
We are the first expedition
on the mountain.
570
00:35:53,518 --> 00:35:54,792
We have a wonderful time,
571
00:35:54,819 --> 00:35:57,322
because everything
is really organized
572
00:35:57,355 --> 00:35:58,355
We have good food.
573
00:35:58,356 --> 00:35:59,460
We have a cook good.
574
00:35:59,490 --> 00:36:02,403
Every detail
is planned and organized.
575
00:36:06,898 --> 00:36:11,472
We are a very strong team
compared to other expeditions.
576
00:36:11,502 --> 00:36:14,676
We put
all our straps fixed -
577
00:36:14,705 --> 00:36:18,084
everything we do
with ourselves.
578
00:36:18,109 --> 00:36:20,487
Bring the rope
up to 8,000 meters,
579
00:36:20,511 --> 00:36:22,013
p>
580
00:36:22,046 --> 00:36:24,617
This is a great job.
581
00:36:24,649 --> 00:36:26,458
The first four to five weeks,
582
00:36:26,484 --> 00:36:29,465
every day fixing the rope
583
00:36:29,487 --> 00:36:31,990
100 meters with 100 meters > with 100 meters,
584
00:36:32,023 --> 00:36:34,003
and then return
just with a rope, you know,
585
00:36:36,260 --> 00:36:39,036
go to base camp
586
00:36:39,063 --> 00:36:41,407
Camp Two, base camp.
More.
587
00:36:41,432 --> 00:36:44,879
Weather conditions-
are also very bad for you
588
00:36:44,902 --> 00:36:48,372
And maybe a good idea
589
00:36:48,406 --> 00:36:51,444
to delay the project someday.
590
00:36:51,475 --> 00:36:52,476
More.
591
00:36:52,510 --> 00:36:55,457
No. It's impossible.
592
00:36:55,479 --> 00:36:57,789
We must be ready in July.
593
00:36:57,815 --> 00:37:00,694
We want to leave this expedition
end of July,
594
00:37:00,718 --> 00:37:04,097
because most accidents
happened in August
595
00:37:05,923 --> 00:37:08,062
The humidity
gets bigger, you know
596
00:37:08,092 --> 00:37:10,231
The danger of becoming more avalanches.
597
00:37:17,802 --> 00:37:19,008
But we said, "OK."
598
00:37:19,036 --> 00:37:21,607
"We want to go end of July."
599
00:37:21,639 --> 00:37:24,313
That's the plan,
and we are faster than the schedule.
600
00:37:27,878 --> 00:37:29,380
And in that period,
601
00:37:29,413 --> 00:37:33,020
p>
602
00:37:33,050 --> 00:37:34,427
all the other teams
arrived,
603
00:37:34,452 --> 00:37:35,954
Koreans...
604
00:37:37,221 --> 00:37:38,325
- Good luck.
- very, very cold
605
00:37:38,356 --> 00:37:40,199
Americans...
606
00:37:41,859 --> 00:37:43,964
Serbs...
607
00:37:43,995 --> 00:37:46,100
- Peaceful
- Rest in peace?
608
00:37:46,130 --> 00:37:47,130
French people...
609
00:37:48,799 --> 00:37:50,073
Perfect.
610
00:37:50,101 --> 00:37:52,445
And the Norwegian team.
611
00:37:52,470 --> 00:37:54,677
No, unfortunately not.
612
00:37:54,705 --> 00:37:58,278
There are lots of
from different cultures up there,
613
00:37:58,309 --> 00:38:00,186
Sherpas from Nepal,
614
00:38:00,211 --> 00:38:03,283
highlanders from Pakistan.
615
00:38:03,314 --> 00:38:05,817
There are several different approaches
to climbing
616
00:38:11,889 --> 00:38:13,300
South Koreans
617
00:38:13,324 --> 00:38:18,171
are major major, such as,
old style, large expeditions
618
00:38:19,864 --> 00:38:24,404
Sherpa, oxygen,
lots of ropes, and lots of camps.
619
00:38:24,435 --> 00:38:27,041
Yes , beautiful day.
620
00:38:30,841 --> 00:38:31,945
Norwegian expedition,
621
00:38:31,976 --> 00:38:36,288
we are only four friends
on the way
622
00:38:36,314 --> 00:38:37,486
trying to climb K2.
623
00:38:40,184 --> 00:38:41,629
It's time to get out
whiskey, so...
624
00:38:41,652 --> 00:38:42,652
Yes.
625
00:38:42,653 --> 00:38:46,032
Yes, that's a good idea.
626
00:38:46,057 --> 00:38:47,058
Saya suka wiski.
627
00:38:48,092 --> 00:38:49,252
Gerard often visits us,
628
00:38:49,260 --> 00:38:51,900
and we also visit them.
629
00:38:51,929 --> 00:38:55,536
Dan-and Ger and Rolf
are friends.
630
00:38:55,566 --> 00:38:59,173
Both of them are the same type of guy.
631
00:39:00,871 --> 00:39:03,715
When I met Rolf in 2003,
632
00:39:03,741 --> 00:39:08,588
I felt that I met a soul mate.
633
00:39:10,848 --> 00:39:15,854
In 2005, we went to K2 to try
to get to know the mountains.
634
00:39:17,888 --> 00:39:20,767
We were there for 93 days.
635
00:39:20,791 --> 00:39:23,863
We just have to be a little higher
than Camp Three.
636
00:39:25,129 --> 00:39:27,439
So this time,
I don't think we really think
637
00:39:27,465 --> 00:39:29,911
that we will get
to the top
638
00:39:31,369 --> 00:39:33,906
Of course,
You have to want that.
639
00:39:33,938 --> 00:39:36,544
Otherwise you won't succeed.
640
00:39:39,043 --> 00:39:44,391
But so much has to be done
right for that to happen
641
00:39:53,457 --> 00:39:56,301
wrong is weather.
642
00:39:56,327 --> 00:39:59,740
For three weeks, it snowed,
it was snowing, it was snowing
643
00:39:59,764 --> 00:40:01,539
That's amazing.
644
00:40:01,565 --> 00:40:05,377
80% chance of snow today.
645
00:40:05,403 --> 00:40:09,283
8 kilometers wind
at 8,000 meters.
646
00:40:09,306 --> 00:40:11,411
He was ready to go home.
647
00:40:11,442 --> 00:40:13,115
He said to me,
648
00:40:13,144 --> 00:40:15,124
"I can't wait < br /> to have good food "
649
00:40:15,146 --> 00:40:16,420
" and a glass of red wine. "
650
00:40:16,447 --> 00:40:18,188
You know, he just...
he is ready.
651
00:40:18,215 --> 00:40:21,924
That is 60 days
at that time
652
00:40:21,952 --> 00:40:24,694
But if you get a weather window,
you take it.
653
00:40:35,466 --> 00:40:38,845
End of July,
weather well enter,
654
00:40:38,869 --> 00:40:42,715
but then everyone
wants to use this window
655
00:40:42,740 --> 00:40:44,583
So we say,
"Let's talk, you know,"
656
00:40:44,608 --> 00:40:46,918
"and let's try working together."
657
00:40:46,944 --> 00:40:48,924
300 ropes for that make.
658
00:40:48,946 --> 00:40:51,222
If you want, more than 50.
659
00:40:51,248 --> 00:40:54,695
400 ropes, we fix.
660
00:40:56,487 --> 00:40:58,296
We traveled 400 meters.
661
00:40:58,322 --> 00:41:01,030
Then the Italian had 200 meters
662
00:41:01,058 --> 00:41:02,628
to cross.
663
00:41:02,660 --> 00:41:05,539
So 600 meters is quite a lot.
664
00:41:05,563 --> 00:41:07,702
Maybe we need more.
665
00:41:07,731 --> 00:41:08,971
We don't need more.
666
00:41:08,999 --> 00:41:11,070
600 meters
quite a lot, I think .
667
00:41:11,101 --> 00:41:12,671
No, 700 will be better.
668
00:41:12,703 --> 00:41:15,309
700?
Okay, Kim says 700.
669
00:41:15,339 --> 00:41:17,080
We have a lot of meetings
670
00:41:17,107 --> 00:41:20,316
because if we work
together, let's be clear.
671
00:41:20,344 --> 00:41:21,948
We are with many people.
672
00:41:21,979 --> 00:41:23,822
We share all workloads.
673
00:41:23,848 --> 00:41:26,192
And , You know, 80% chance
674
00:41:26,217 --> 00:41:29,528
that we will get to the top
without problems
675
00:41:29,553 --> 00:41:32,432
First, lead,
second, help them,
676
00:41:32,456 --> 00:41:34,732
third, make bamboo.
677
00:41:34,758 --> 00:41:36,066
Ice?
678
00:41:36,093 --> 00:41:37,936
- ice screw
- ice crew
679
00:41:37,962 --> 00:41:41,569
I always see
base camp meeting
680
00:41:41,599 --> 00:41:45,012
as an important key to success.
681
00:41:45,035 --> 00:41:48,380
That is our chance
to be together
682
00:41:48,405 --> 00:41:50,646
and do this as a team.
683
00:41:50,674 --> 00:41:55,987
Not South Koreans, Americans,
Serbs,
684
00:41:56,013 --> 00:41:58,220
as a team.
685
00:41:58,249 --> 00:42:00,092
Only there is one top team...
686
00:42:00,117 --> 00:42:01,117
Yes.
687
00:42:01,118 --> 00:42:03,098
Of each group.
688
00:42:03,120 --> 00:42:04,190
The question is also,
689
00:42:04,221 --> 00:42:06,895
who climbs in front,
Do you know?
690
00:42:06,924 --> 00:42:08,028
We said, "Listen."
691
00:42:08,058 --> 00:42:11,562
"Each team gives
the strongest climber,"
692
00:42:11,595 --> 00:42:13,871
"and that
runner party. "
693
00:42:13,898 --> 00:42:18,108
Two good climbers
and one, two porters...
694
00:42:18,135 --> 00:42:20,741
- Good.
- Who brought the rope keep this?
695
00:42:20,771 --> 00:42:21,841
Rope stays
696
00:42:21,872 --> 00:42:24,409
This team
starts one or two hours
697
00:42:24,441 --> 00:42:27,888
before other members
from Camp Four.
698
00:42:27,912 --> 00:42:29,289
- Good.
- Understood.
699
00:42:29,313 --> 00:42:31,190
We are thinking,
If the team is strongest,
700
00:42:31,215 --> 00:42:32,785
You know, go to this section
701
00:42:32,816 --> 00:42:35,126
and fix the rope
through jams,
702
00:42:35,152 --> 00:42:37,758
we can just follow the string
and go to peak.
703
00:42:37,788 --> 00:42:40,234
So very-
it's a very safe plan
704
00:42:40,257 --> 00:42:43,363
I don't know if you will go
with a peak party...
705
00:42:43,394 --> 00:42:45,169
It is clear to me and Rolf
706
00:42:45,195 --> 00:42:50,440
that this will not happen
as smooth as planned.
707
00:42:50,467 --> 00:42:52,140
It feels too easy for us.
708
00:42:52,169 --> 00:42:53,842
- no what can be done
- Yeah, yes, okay
709
00:42:53,871 --> 00:42:55,782
600 meters at the top.
710
00:42:55,806 --> 00:42:56,978
Yes.
711
00:42:57,007 --> 00:42:59,283
Our team is, uh, more. ..
712
00:43:01,512 --> 00:43:03,788
If you start
sharing responsibility
713
00:43:03,814 --> 00:43:06,090
with others,
714
00:43:06,116 --> 00:43:10,326
I think that in the end,
as humans we relax.
715
00:43:10,354 --> 00:43:15,099
We don't really do it
what should we do
716
00:43:15,125 --> 00:43:21,098
And K2 is right really demands
knowing how to do something,
717
00:43:21,131 --> 00:43:25,102
giving the correct answer,
has answers for everyone
718
00:43:30,507 --> 00:43:31,679
In a perfect world,
719
00:43:31,709 --> 00:43:35,748
everyone is responsible
for everyone.
720
00:43:35,779 --> 00:43:39,124
Only the mountain
reaches perfection
721
00:43:39,149 --> 00:43:42,221
That's why you came to climb it.
722
00:43:42,252 --> 00:43:45,825
They will never try K2
723
00:43:45,856 --> 00:43:50,066
without the knowledge of
and the expertise of the locals.
724
00:43:50,094 --> 00:43:53,337
My partner who is not possible
is named Mahdi.
725
00:43:53,364 --> 00:43:57,141
He is the best
from Hunzas.
726
00:43:57,167 --> 00:43:59,773
On the eve of the summit,
727
00:43:59,803 --> 00:44:03,444
we must take the last
from oxygen to the last camp
728
00:44:03,474 --> 00:44:05,681
and meet the main climber,
729
00:44:05,709 --> 00:44:07,985
Lacedelli and Compagnoni.
730
00:44:08,012 --> 00:44:10,117
The names are legendary now,
731
00:44:10,147 --> 00:44:13,185
the two men
finally conquered K2
732
00:44:13,217 --> 00:44:15,697
for the first time in history
733
00:44:18,455 --> 00:44:22,096
It could be that we were with them,
Mahdi and myself.
734
00:44:22,126 --> 00:44:24,868
We agreed, > if we are strong,
735
00:44:24,895 --> 00:44:27,068
we will go too,
736
00:44:27,097 --> 00:44:29,907
but we never find it.
737
00:44:29,933 --> 00:44:32,846
We climb
to the point of exhaustion
738
00:44:32,870 --> 00:44:35,146
to their place
It should be
739
00:44:35,172 --> 00:44:38,642
and start crying for them.
740
00:44:38,676 --> 00:44:40,019
When the sun disappears,
741
00:44:40,044 --> 00:44:43,253
thin air
starts gnaw at us.
742
00:44:43,280 --> 00:44:45,556
As violence
As a slap on the face,
743
00:44:45,582 --> 00:44:49,359
the first gust of snow
hit us directly
744
00:45:00,655 --> 00:45:02,375
We just thought, < br> "it's just a problem"
745
00:45:02,399 --> 00:45:04,777
"You know, one hour,
and then the wind will drop."
746
00:45:04,802 --> 00:45:05,906
But it doesn't go down.
747
00:45:05,936 --> 00:45:07,472
That's actually... it went...
748
00:45:07,504 --> 00:45:09,245
it becomes stronger and stronger.
749
00:45:14,011 --> 00:45:15,615
It's like...
750
00:45:16,647 --> 00:45:18,456
The wind goes like that,
751
00:45:18,482 --> 00:45:20,723
and my camp is at this time
has gone up
752
00:45:20,751 --> 00:45:22,822
and me with a tent
753
00:45:41,605 --> 00:45:45,052
It can't even be seen outside the tent.
754
00:45:46,276 --> 00:45:49,223
Very critical situation.
755
00:45:49,246 --> 00:45:53,092
Dear God.
God.
God.
756
00:45:53,117 --> 00:45:54,152
That's it.
Come on.
757
00:45:55,552 --> 00:45:56,724
In you go
758
00:46:00,657 --> 00:46:02,068
They put me
in a sleeping bag.
759
00:46:02,092 --> 00:46:03,628
I started shaking.
760
00:46:03,660 --> 00:46:05,731
I was in a bad situation.
761
00:46:05,763 --> 00:46:07,140
You're fine.
762
00:46:07,164 --> 00:46:09,007
You're fine.
763
00:46:09,032 --> 00:46:10,477
p>
764
00:46:10,501 --> 00:46:12,538
All right, Wilco!
765
00:46:15,472 --> 00:46:17,816
Wilco, this is Ger here!
766
00:46:17,841 --> 00:46:19,684
by walkie-talkie
767
00:46:19,710 --> 00:46:22,919
"Okay, Wilco, now we
will bring it"
768
00:46:22,946 --> 00:46:27,053
"in your camp
because you have more space. "
769
00:46:27,084 --> 00:46:28,654
This is not the time
for nonsense now
770
00:46:30,120 --> 00:46:31,963
The Serbian...
I don't know...
771
00:46:31,989 --> 00:46:34,526
But if he must have knocked
in my camp,
772
00:46:34,558 --> 00:46:35,764
I would say, "Listen."
773
00:46:35,793 --> 00:46:37,466
"Get off immediately,"
774
00:46:37,494 --> 00:46:39,735
"because I didn't can have you
in my tent now "
775
00:46:39,763 --> 00:46:40,867
" because I have to rest "
776
00:46:40,898 --> 00:46:42,639
" Because I have to go
to the top. "
777
00:46:48,405 --> 00:46:50,976
We don't sleep all night.
778
00:47:01,318 --> 00:47:04,629
Early in the morning,
Ger is a little angry.
779
00:47:04,655 --> 00:47:06,999
I'm not sure
is he angry
780
00:47:07,024 --> 00:47:09,061
because of what happened to me
781
00:47:09,092 --> 00:47:14,599
or because of what happened
between two of them
782
00:47:14,631 --> 00:47:15,974
I'm really upset,
783
00:47:15,999 --> 00:47:18,070
so I have to be clear
that this person
784
00:47:18,101 --> 00:47:20,172
won't go with us
785
00:47:20,204 --> 00:47:21,765
And I say, "Listen.
There's only one."
786
00:47:21,772 --> 00:47:23,080
"You have to go back,"
787
00:47:23,106 --> 00:47:25,146
"and I don't want to see you
in the camp," you know ?
788
00:47:25,175 --> 00:47:26,916
For me, I don't know.
789
00:47:26,944 --> 00:47:29,982
I... myself, I feel...
I don't know
790
00:47:30,013 --> 00:47:32,516
how am I will continue my life
791
00:47:32,549 --> 00:47:36,998
until I know-
someone needs my help
792
00:47:37,020 --> 00:47:41,230
There isn't much help,
and I don't want to give him.
793
00:47:50,067 --> 00:47:51,341
Many guys,
794
00:47:51,368 --> 00:47:53,075
they are thinking
They can climb K2
795
00:47:53,103 --> 00:47:55,014
without oxygen, without ropes,
796
00:47:55,038 --> 00:47:56,608
without bringing
items right,
797
00:47:56,640 --> 00:47:58,449
brings the right team
798
00:47:58,475 --> 00:48:00,250
You can't climb
just 8,000 meters high.
799
00:48:00,277 --> 00:48:03,486
You-You don't carry any rope.
800
00:48:03,513 --> 00:48:06,119
How do you want to climb
this damn mountain?
801
00:48:06,149 --> 00:48:07,594
Mm-hmm.
802
00:48:07,618 --> 00:48:11,532
- This is totally irresponsible
- How did you do it 2006?
803
00:48:11,555 --> 00:48:14,934
Wilco was very direct and blunt.
804
00:48:14,958 --> 00:48:16,369
He put his business card on the table.
805
00:48:16,393 --> 00:48:19,067
There is no doubt about what
he was thinking, you know
806
00:48:19,096 --> 00:48:21,736
So I thought, you know, Ger
That kind of thing he likes.
807
00:48:25,702 --> 00:48:28,046
Both Ger and Wilco ,
808
00:48:28,071 --> 00:48:30,551
they really have peaks
in their eyes
809
00:48:32,075 --> 00:48:33,645
You can see it.
810
00:48:43,453 --> 00:48:47,595
On July 29, 2006,
I got call from Ger.
811
00:48:47,624 --> 00:48:49,399
I can still hear it
say it to me.
812
00:48:49,426 --> 00:48:52,532
He said, "Geez, JJ,
this is very possible."
813
00:48:52,562 --> 00:48:53,973
And he said,
"I don't believe."
814
00:48:53,997 --> 00:48:55,840
He said, "This is very easy to do."
815
00:48:58,835 --> 00:49:01,475
They climbed from...
816
00:49:01,505 --> 00:49:02,848
I thought
it was an advanced base camp,
817
00:49:02,873 --> 00:49:06,343
and they will ride
to Camp Two in Abruzzi.
818
00:49:06,376 --> 00:49:09,448
Ger is up,
and what people say,
819
00:49:09,479 --> 00:49:12,392
is actually
an avalanche.
820
00:49:13,617 --> 00:49:14,994
The telephone rings.
821
00:49:15,018 --> 00:49:19,228
He said to me, "It's been
an accident in K2."
822
00:49:19,256 --> 00:49:22,499
And I said, " How bad? "
And he said," Look... "
823
00:49:26,263 --> 00:49:29,710
" You might bring-bring
He goes home in a body bag. "
824
00:49:40,444 --> 00:49:42,981
That's just God's action
Thus,
825
00:49:43,013 --> 00:49:44,924
like, I mean, a rock
who caught it
826
00:49:44,948 --> 00:49:46,985
And, I mean, the helmet is
on at that moment he has it
827
00:49:47,017 --> 00:49:48,860
maybe, maybe saved
his life.
828
00:49:48,885 --> 00:49:51,058
But I know - I always know
from that - starting that night,
829
00:49:51,088 --> 00:49:52,829
I know he will try
and do this again,
830
00:49:52,856 --> 00:49:53,891
like , you know
831
00:50:04,468 --> 00:50:07,005
The bigger the dream,
the greater the risk,
832
00:50:07,037 --> 00:50:10,143
but you know,
that dream is there.
833
00:50:10,173 --> 00:50:12,278
Since then,
834
00:50:12,309 --> 00:50:13,481
I know we will come back,
you know,
835
00:50:13,510 --> 00:50:15,751
and Ger will go with me again.
836
00:50:19,016 --> 00:50:21,724
That's why,
When we arrive at Camp Four,
837
00:50:21,752 --> 00:50:23,629
is already a magical moment.
838
00:50:27,190 --> 00:50:30,637
Ah, it's very nice to be here.
839
00:50:30,660 --> 00:50:33,334
I can almost cry.
840
00:50:33,363 --> 00:50:36,867
When you love someone
and they like to do something,
841
00:50:36,900 --> 00:50:38,573
You are happy for them.
842
00:50:38,602 --> 00:50:41,276
Of course,
is a dangerous mountain
843
00:50:41,304 --> 00:50:42,806
Any mountain
a dangerous mountain
844
00:50:42,839 --> 00:50:44,409
But he knows he can climb it,
845
00:50:44,441 --> 00:50:46,944
and he knows
he can climb safely.
846
00:50:46,977 --> 00:50:51,722
And I think
he wants to go back
847
00:51:10,901 --> 00:51:13,745
There's always something
you don't talk about it
848
00:51:13,770 --> 00:51:15,579
and what you don't expect,
849
00:51:15,605 --> 00:51:18,051
and one thing
is that in this meeting,
850
00:51:18,075 --> 00:51:20,578
the leader
of high altitude
851
00:51:20,610 --> 00:51:22,851
p>
852
00:51:22,879 --> 00:51:25,325
who made it,
broke the trail,
853
00:51:25,348 --> 00:51:26,622
I trust this person completely.
854
00:51:26,650 --> 00:51:28,152
Do this...
855
00:51:28,185 --> 00:51:29,630
But what that happened...
856
00:51:29,653 --> 00:51:31,098
He was sick.
857
00:51:31,121 --> 00:51:34,159
So there are no more leaders.
858
00:51:34,191 --> 00:51:35,829
High-altitude lashes
from Sherpa,
859
00:51:35,859 --> 00:51:37,338
they will fix the rope,
860
00:51:37,360 --> 00:51:39,966
and members of
from Koreans,
861
00:51:39,996 --> 00:51:42,135
they will double check
string,
862
00:51:42,165 --> 00:51:45,612
correctly affixed
on the mountain.
863
00:51:45,635 --> 00:51:47,171
You know,
He is the climbing leader
864
00:51:47,204 --> 00:51:49,445
of the big Korean team -
865
00:51:49,473 --> 00:51:52,977
he will check everything
at Camp Four,
866
00:51:53,009 --> 00:51:54,317
But it didn't.
867
00:52:07,557 --> 00:52:08,661
We have a plan.
868
00:52:08,692 --> 00:52:12,572
12:00,
the first party must move.
869
00:52:12,596 --> 00:52:16,066
But at 11:00,
Korean climbers
870
00:52:16,099 --> 00:52:17,442
are still in tents,
871
00:52:17,467 --> 00:52:20,311
keep smoking and smoking and...
872
00:52:20,337 --> 00:52:24,285
Then finally I say, "No, < br /> Now we have to do it ourselves. "
873
00:52:28,411 --> 00:52:30,413
Be this Sherpa, Pemba,
874
00:52:30,447 --> 00:52:36,295
His face, I remember
very clear that night
875
00:52:36,319 --> 00:52:39,198
He is the type of person
876
00:52:39,222 --> 00:52:45,173
that is transmitted
security,
877
00:52:45,195 --> 00:52:47,436
wants to know who I am,
878
00:52:47,464 --> 00:52:49,876
how I got there
at midnight .
879
00:52:49,900 --> 00:52:53,040
I told him, "I climb solo",
880
00:52:53,069 --> 00:52:57,381
"and I hope
to go with you
881
00:53:08,985 --> 00:53:10,464
The Summit offer is delayed
882
00:53:10,487 --> 00:53:13,468
because people
are hanging around like,
883
00:53:13,490 --> 00:53:15,492
" Hey, where are the teeth? "
884
00:53:15,525 --> 00:53:16,525
" Where is the equipment? "
885
00:53:16,526 --> 00:53:17,834
" Where is the rope? "
886
00:53:17,861 --> 00:53:22,503
We return to the past.
887
00:53:22,532 --> 00:53:24,205
We are really late
888
00:53:24,234 --> 00:53:26,111
Very disappointing.
889
00:53:26,136 --> 00:53:27,479
Deaf heights,
890
00:53:27,504 --> 00:53:30,041
they just started
to fix the rope,
891
00:53:30,073 --> 00:53:32,610
and Pemba is not
a leader like that
892
00:53:32,642 --> 00:53:33,848
who said, "Listen."
893
00:53:33,877 --> 00:53:36,153
"We will do it
like this," you know
894
00:53:36,179 --> 00:53:38,216
p>
895
00:53:38,248 --> 00:53:40,228
I was surprised
896
00:53:40,250 --> 00:53:44,062
that they put
the rope stays
897
00:53:44,087 --> 00:53:47,534
in an area that doesn't need it.
898
00:53:47,557 --> 00:53:50,299
Only, like, 10 meters < br /> from tents or something.
899
00:53:52,329 --> 00:53:54,741
Suddenly,
there is no progress anymore,
900
00:53:54,764 --> 00:53:58,234
and people
just stand there waiting.
901
00:53:58,268 --> 00:54:01,442
And they shout back
that they run out of rope.
902
00:54:05,976 --> 00:54:07,580
We are thinking,
903
00:54:07,611 --> 00:54:09,613
"For God's sake,
how is this possible?"
904
00:54:10,947 --> 00:54:12,017
The only thing you can do
905
00:54:12,048 --> 00:54:14,119
will return, cut the rope,
906
00:54:14,150 --> 00:54:16,687
and bring it,
and that's what we do.
907
00:54:19,589 --> 00:54:22,331
We are delayed by two hours,
908
00:54:22,359 --> 00:54:24,339
and it's too long
909
00:54:24,361 --> 00:54:28,309
You can't catch two hours
at the summit bid.
910
00:54:28,331 --> 00:54:31,335
Even though
there are perfect conditions,
911
00:54:31,368 --> 00:54:34,906
in the death zone,
You only lose more energy.
912
00:54:41,544 --> 00:54:43,888
Those people,
they are too optimistic
913
00:54:43,913 --> 00:54:45,324
to peak,
914
00:54:45,348 --> 00:54:48,522
and that's why they keep climbing.
915
00:54:54,858 --> 00:55:00,467
They forget a lot of things
about security
916
00:55:01,798 --> 00:55:02,936
Aah!
917
00:55:13,877 --> 00:55:16,551
People think we're crazy.
918
00:55:16,579 --> 00:55:20,425
How can you continue?
if someone dies?
919
00:55:21,685 --> 00:55:24,359
But if you drive a car,
You see people having an accident.
920
00:55:24,387 --> 00:55:27,368
You see people die in traffic.
921
00:55:27,390 --> 00:55:30,564
You keep driving,
& apos; because of you -
922
00:55:30,593 --> 00:55:32,368
You think
That won't happen to you.
923
00:55:32,395 --> 00:55:34,102
I see.
924
00:55:34,130 --> 00:55:35,837
Is he in stone?
925
00:55:35,865 --> 00:55:37,139
- He is here .
- Yeah.
926
00:55:37,167 --> 00:55:38,167
- Yeah.
- Stone.
927
00:55:38,168 --> 00:55:39,909
Yes, right on the edge.
928
00:55:39,936 --> 00:55:41,040
If everyone turned back
929
00:55:41,071 --> 00:55:44,416
after the Serbian
falls,
930
00:55:44,441 --> 00:55:48,981
then I think there is only 1
victim on the mountain
931
00:55:49,012 --> 00:55:50,992
not 11.
932
00:56:06,730 --> 00:56:07,765
How are you?
933
00:56:07,797 --> 00:56:09,572
Good.
934
00:56:09,599 --> 00:56:11,510
But it's not a fun day today.
935
00:56:11,534 --> 00:56:13,411
A hard day for me today.
936
00:56:13,436 --> 00:56:14,506
Iya nih.
937
00:56:14,537 --> 00:56:16,744
It's not a good day.
938
00:56:16,773 --> 00:56:19,720
He said, "Go."
939
00:56:19,743 --> 00:56:22,349
"You feel strong.
You are strong."
940
00:56:22,379 --> 00:56:26,850
"You go there...
to the top with Lars."
941
00:56:26,883 --> 00:56:30,228
And I look back many times,
942
00:56:30,253 --> 00:56:31,698
and every time I look back
943
00:56:31,721 --> 00:56:35,100
p>
944
00:56:35,125 --> 00:56:37,435
and if he looks at me
at the same time,
945
00:56:37,460 --> 00:56:40,407
He, like, thumbs up
946
00:56:46,269 --> 00:56:50,046
and likes, "Keep going."
947
00:56:50,073 --> 00:56:52,713
Rolf and me,
we talked a few times
948
00:56:52,742 --> 00:56:57,350
Then Rolf said,
"Now, Pemba, I want to go back"
949
00:56:57,380 --> 00:56:59,587
"Because of these people
very stupid "
950
00:56:59,616 --> 00:57:00,959
" because there isn't
talking to each other "
951
00:57:00,984 --> 00:57:04,796
" about the time. "
952
00:57:09,659 --> 00:57:11,104
" Really, I don't understand
people. "
953
00:57:11,127 --> 00:57:14,074
and it's so easy
to just continue a little,
954
00:57:14,097 --> 00:57:16,008
only half an hour to see.
956
00:57:24,474 --> 00:57:28,980
He took the Rolf rabbit hat
and danced at the top.
957
00:57:32,415 --> 00:57:35,589
We just had a few minutes -
taking pictures
958
00:57:38,221 --> 00:57:41,225
Even in our most crazy dreams,
959
00:57:41,257 --> 00:57:44,136
we won't dream of it
to be beautiful
960
00:57:45,195 --> 00:57:49,371
With that K2 shadow
to China -
961
00:57:49,399 --> 00:57:52,278
really beautiful
962
00:57:52,302 --> 00:57:54,441
I enjoy the view,
963
00:57:54,471 --> 00:57:56,883
But the only
that is in our heads
964
00:57:56,906 --> 00:57:59,887
is that we won't stay
here for a long time
965
00:57:59,909 --> 00:58:01,149
We will return.
966
00:58:01,177 --> 00:58:05,956
We have to go back to the rope
before dark.
967
00:58:05,982 --> 00:58:07,188
We are at the top of K2!
968
00:58:07,217 --> 00:58:08,217
Whoo-hoo!
969
00:58:08,218 --> 00:58:09,219
Yo yo yo .
970
00:58:11,020 --> 00:58:13,193
Time passed
in a very strange way
971
00:58:13,223 --> 00:58:14,258
above there.
972
00:58:14,290 --> 00:58:17,237
What might feel
like a few seconds
973
00:58:17,260 --> 00:58:19,968
can actually be brief
or vice versa.
974
00:58:19,996 --> 00:58:23,534
You know,
is very difficult to tell.
975
00:58:31,007 --> 00:58:32,918
He called me,
and I was lucky
976
00:58:32,942 --> 00:58:35,388
that the connection was made.
977
00:58:37,981 --> 00:58:39,392
He was very happy.
978
00:58:39,415 --> 00:58:41,588
He tell me everyone
feels good,
979
00:58:41,618 --> 00:58:45,327
that there is no problem
980
00:58:45,355 --> 00:58:47,596
Then...
981
00:58:47,624 --> 00:58:53,302
yes, I just hope
to hear from him,
982
00:58:53,329 --> 00:58:56,435
you know,
five or six hours.
983
00:59:00,003 --> 00:59:03,576
When we are ready to go down,
and he says,
984
00:59:03,606 --> 00:59:06,883
"Okay, now I don't want
to take the flag"
985
00:59:06,910 --> 00:59:10,517
"camera, phone sit,"
986
00:59:10,547 --> 00:59:13,084
"everything you have to carry."
987
00:59:13,116 --> 00:59:14,618
And I took everything.
988
00:59:34,404 --> 00:59:38,853
You know it's almost all
accidents in climbing
989
00:59:38,875 --> 00:59:41,412
happens on the way down,
on offspring.
990
00:59:41,444 --> 00:59:43,822
You're tired
You relax
991
00:59:43,846 --> 00:59:46,986
The day is getting dark.
992
00:59:47,016 --> 00:59:50,486
So that the factor
that every climber knows.
993
00:59:53,723 --> 00:59:55,498
We managed to catch Rolf
further down.
994
00:59:56,926 --> 01:00:01,500
He was very happy
and congratulated us
995
01:00:01,531 --> 01:00:04,774
And we decided to go down
together, of course,
996
01:00:04,801 --> 01:00:10,012
got to the rope anyway,
slow, but efficient.
997
01:00:10,039 --> 01:00:16,388
That would dark only 15 minutes
After we get to the rope,
998
01:00:16,412 --> 01:00:19,256
so we use our head torch.
999
01:00:27,991 --> 01:00:30,938
When Rolf gets there, I ask him
if he wants to go first,
1000
01:00:30,960 --> 01:00:32,530
or if he wants me to go first
1001
01:00:32,562 --> 01:00:34,303
Do you want me to go first?
1002
01:00:34,330 --> 01:00:36,776
- He said, "Lars, I go first . "
- No, I go first
1003
01:00:36,799 --> 01:00:39,541
- "You take care of my wife."
- You take care of my wife
1004
01:00:44,641 --> 01:00:45,641
Yes.
1005
01:00:45,642 --> 01:00:47,178
That is...
1006
01:00:49,979 --> 01:00:52,482
This is the last thing he said.
1007
01:01:06,295 --> 01:01:07,865
I don't know
if I hear anything,
1008
01:01:07,897 --> 01:01:09,035
but I feel it
1009
01:01:10,299 --> 01:01:11,903
Land
Trembling below me.
1010
01:01:21,678 --> 01:01:25,888
The last thing I see
is Rolf's head torch moving.
1011
01:01:29,318 --> 01:01:31,855
And then it's dark.
1012
01:01:51,941 --> 01:01:53,943
You have to think I'm crazy
saying this, but...
1013
01:01:54,977 --> 01:01:57,617
Suddenly,
I can hear his voice.
1014
01:01:57,647 --> 01:02:00,719
And it's very strong.
1015
01:02:00,750 --> 01:02:05,130
Like, say,
1016
01:02:05,154 --> 01:02:07,964
>
1017
01:02:29,245 --> 01:02:31,054
"You have to go down."
1018
01:02:31,080 --> 01:02:33,754
You will think,
1019
01:02:33,783 --> 01:02:35,820
"Follow the line,
and there is Camp Four."
1020
01:02:35,852 --> 01:02:38,264
And in a few days,
we will have a big party
1021
01:02:40,990 --> 01:02:43,231
The problem is,
you are very tired,
1022
01:02:43,259 --> 01:02:45,671
and you are not
concentrated.
1023
01:02:45,695 --> 01:02:49,609
And everyone will go down
at their own pace
1024
01:02:53,236 --> 01:02:56,911
We arrived at the Korean Sherpa
and the Korean team.
1025
01:02:56,939 --> 01:02:57,939
Everyone,
1026
01:02:57,940 --> 01:02:59,942
They gathered, regrouped.
1027
01:03:04,280 --> 01:03:06,260
We only have one choice.
1028
01:03:06,282 --> 01:03:09,695
We put everyone together
on one rope,
1029
01:03:09,719 --> 01:03:14,168
then try to lower it together.
1030
01:03:50,459 --> 01:03:52,803
We are currently looking for
climbing mountains every hour,
1031
01:03:52,829 --> 01:03:57,209
and we are monitoring
our radio all the time
1032
01:03:57,233 --> 01:03:59,611
And we have started
more and more anxious
1033
01:03:59,635 --> 01:04:01,945
about their security
1034
01:04:01,971 --> 01:04:04,042
We see this headlight
and think,
1035
01:04:04,073 --> 01:04:05,780
"Dear God.
Dear God."
1036
01:04:05,808 --> 01:04:07,082
"They don't move very fast."
1037
01:04:07,109 --> 01:04:08,713
"What is happening?"
1038
01:04:10,313 --> 01:04:12,759
We start feeling...
1039
01:04:14,617 --> 01:04:16,961
Desperate.
1040
01:04:25,027 --> 01:04:27,837
Korea is completely stopped.
1041
01:04:27,864 --> 01:04:30,140
It is impossible
to drop them
1042
01:04:30,166 --> 01:04:32,271
>
1043
01:04:32,301 --> 01:04:33,780
with the same string
1044
01:04:40,086 --> 01:04:41,687
because they are sitting.
1045
01:04:41,711 --> 01:04:45,625
Broadly speaking
is a little stuck,
1046
01:04:45,648 --> 01:04:48,060
is not very clear.
1047
01:04:48,084 --> 01:04:50,030
One time, you don't run
all together again,
1048
01:04:50,052 --> 01:04:52,589
so you
are a little apart,
1049
01:04:52,622 --> 01:04:55,432
a few meters between you.
1050
01:05:01,397 --> 01:05:05,709
Everyone just goes down.
1051
01:05:05,735 --> 01:05:06,805
We arrive at the point
where the rope should still be,
1052
01:05:10,039 --> 01:05:11,245
But it doesn't exist.
1053
01:05:11,274 --> 01:05:12,776
Marco see.
1054
01:05:12,808 --> 01:05:15,448
I'm looking for
1055
01:05:15,478 --> 01:05:18,152
But we can't find it.
1056
01:05:18,180 --> 01:05:20,683
I'm sure
that this is the right way,
1057
01:05:22,318 --> 01:05:24,298
But why isn't there a rope there?
1058
01:05:24,320 --> 01:05:26,732
"We have to be on the wrong side
from the mountain,
1059
01:05:26,756 --> 01:05:29,600
or we will definitely lose."
1060
01:05:34,931 --> 01:05:40,506
My soul says,
"Marco, stop yourself. "
1061
01:05:40,536 --> 01:05:42,982
" Stop, stop, stop. "
1062
01:05:43,005 --> 01:05:44,643
I call Ger.
1063
01:05:44,674 --> 01:05:47,917
I say," Ger,
Let's stay here all night. "
1064
01:05:47,944 --> 01:05:49,446
We have to keep quiet
1065
01:05:49,478 --> 01:05:53,255
because it will be easy
for an avalanche to get us.
1066
01:06:00,489 --> 01:06:05,268
I hope during the day <
> the slowest to hear from them.
1067
01:06:05,294 --> 01:06:06,739
And the phone rings
When I'm having lunch,
1068
01:06:06,762 --> 01:06:09,709
and I think that's it,
But it's a friend else.
1069
01:06:09,732 --> 01:06:11,405
He's like,
"Have you ever heard from Ger?"
1070
01:06:11,434 --> 01:06:14,040
And I said, "No.
I was really worried."
1071
01:06:14,070 --> 01:06:17,608
And then I come home from lunch,
1072
01:06:17,640 --> 01:06:19,711
immediately on the internet,
1073
01:06:19,742 --> 01:06:23,690
and the first thing
is "Trouble on K2."
1074
01:06:27,350 --> 01:06:28,886
The first thing I think about is,
1075
01:06:28,918 --> 01:06:32,297
" Okay, when is the sun?
going up in K2? "
1076
01:06:32,321 --> 01:06:34,665
" Because that's how
they will start moving again. "
1077
01:06:34,690 --> 01:06:37,864
And, you know," How much more
What time are they out there? "
1078
01:06:43,566 --> 01:06:46,638
We are stranded
above the death zone
1079
01:06:46,669 --> 01:06:48,342
Mahdi comes out of his head.
1080
01:06:48,371 --> 01:06:51,944
I think he
will kill both of us
1081
01:06:51,974 --> 01:06:55,183
With instinct,
I dig a hole into the slope
1082
01:06:55,211 --> 01:06:56,952
to get out of the storm
1083
01:06:56,979 --> 01:06:59,152
I remember screaming
at the top of my lungs,
1084
01:06:59,181 --> 01:07:02,355
"I don't want to die!"
1085
01:07:02,385 --> 01:07:06,800
And that's when I heard them
above the roar of the wind.
1086
01:07:06,822 --> 01:07:10,668
I don't know whether
is Compagnoni or Lacedelli,
1087
01:07:10,693 --> 01:07:12,195
but I hear a voice
1088
01:07:12,228 --> 01:07:15,072
"Do you want us?
to freeze you?"
1089
01:07:15,097 --> 01:07:18,806
"Leave oxygen
and go down immediately."
1090
01:07:23,372 --> 01:07:26,546
For me, descendants
are not very big problems.
1091
01:07:30,179 --> 01:07:32,056
I'm so fixated
at the bottom of
1092
01:07:32,081 --> 01:07:34,357
that I don't really know
who's in front of me
1093
01:07:34,383 --> 01:07:35,953
or behind me
1094
01:07:35,985 --> 01:07:38,864
So only that,
I know that I see light
1095
01:07:38,888 --> 01:07:40,561
and I will come
close to the light
1096
01:07:40,589 --> 01:07:44,731
Then I saw that Hugues,
French people
1097
01:07:44,760 --> 01:07:46,899
Hey, Hugues.
1098
01:07:46,929 --> 01:07:48,772
Hey, Gas.
1099
01:07:50,666 --> 01:07:53,146
Y... you go first
1100
01:07:53,169 --> 01:07:55,410
You are faster than me.
1101
01:07:57,206 --> 01:08:00,449
I passed it,
and I keep going down.
1102
01:08:00,476 --> 01:08:02,080
Use your time.
1103
01:08:02,111 --> 01:08:04,352
Go.
Go.
1104
01:08:06,816 --> 01:08:09,296
And then I see something
it's okay with a rope.
1105
01:09:00,569 --> 01:09:03,778
If you sleep, you die.
1106
01:09:03,806 --> 01:09:07,344
I think Wilco heard our voice,
1107
01:09:07,376 --> 01:09:12,450
so he came towards us.
1108
01:09:29,865 --> 01:09:30,935
We don't panic.
1109
01:09:30,966 --> 01:09:32,946
We ever-
we just sit
1110
01:09:32,968 --> 01:09:35,039
We just, you know, yes,
1111
01:09:35,070 --> 01:09:37,209
wonder why
we can't find strap it.
1112
01:09:37,239 --> 01:09:39,845
But we are sure
the next morning,
1113
01:09:39,875 --> 01:09:41,912
with the first light,
1114
01:09:41,944 --> 01:09:44,254
we will find the rope again.
1115
01:10:20,382 --> 01:10:23,363
Koreans, they sit.
1116
01:10:23,385 --> 01:10:25,831
I feel, this is very, very sad,
1117
01:10:25,854 --> 01:10:28,630
because I understand
many people,
1118
01:10:28,657 --> 01:10:32,366
they don't can reach it
a high camp tonight
1119
01:10:54,750 --> 01:10:56,320
4:00.
1120
01:11:00,789 --> 01:11:01,789
Nothing,
1121
01:11:01,790 --> 01:11:04,100
there is no ice anchor, no length ,
1122
01:11:04,126 --> 01:11:07,972
there is no stone anchor,
there is no fixed path, nothing
1123
01:11:07,997 --> 01:11:10,477
Then I try to contact
with Korean Sherpas,
1124
01:11:10,499 --> 01:11:15,505
but I can't bring them to the radio
1125
01:11:15,537 --> 01:11:19,314
because there isn't
turning on the radio
1126
01:11:19,341 --> 01:11:21,787
That is a big problem.
1127
01:11:21,810 --> 01:11:23,187
Hmm.
1128
01:11:23,212 --> 01:11:24,782
We can go.
1129
01:11:24,813 --> 01:11:25,883
We can go up and...
1130
01:11:25,914 --> 01:11:27,723
If we have people,
we can do this
1131
01:11:27,750 --> 01:11:31,163
It's still good and clear.
1132
01:11:31,186 --> 01:11:34,633
We can see
some climbers
1133
01:11:34,657 --> 01:11:36,136
at the top of the serac.
1134
01:12:08,624 --> 01:12:11,969
We are sure that,
with the first light,
1135
01:12:11,994 --> 01:12:14,065
we will find the rope again.
1136
01:12:35,918 --> 01:12:38,057
And Gerard goes < > to the right, you know,
1137
01:12:38,087 --> 01:12:39,623
to look around there.
1138
01:12:39,655 --> 01:12:41,464
I'll go left
to look around there.
1139
01:12:41,490 --> 01:12:43,697
Marco looked somewhere.
1140
01:12:45,227 --> 01:12:47,298
We couldn't find it.
1141
01:12:47,329 --> 01:12:49,673
And then I began to realize
1142
01:12:49,698 --> 01:12:53,737
that I have a problem
with my view
1143
01:12:53,769 --> 01:12:57,717
I'm getting panicked,
you know, because I know -
1144
01:12:57,740 --> 01:13:03,713
fuck, get snow-blind < br /> at this height it's finished
1145
01:13:03,746 --> 01:13:05,157
There are no helicopters coming in.
1146
01:13:05,180 --> 01:13:07,990
People can't do something
with an 80 kilo body.
1147
01:13:08,016 --> 01:13:09,518
Done.
- Guys!
1148
01:13:09,551 --> 01:13:10,689
So, I said, "Listen, friends."
1149
01:13:10,719 --> 01:13:12,323
"I have to go down.
I have to go down. "
1150
01:13:12,354 --> 01:13:13,560
I have to go down!
1151
01:13:13,589 --> 01:13:15,034
So I just go down
1152
01:13:15,057 --> 01:13:17,901
without thinking
and just go down.
1153
01:13:23,832 --> 01:13:24,832
Only one question.
1154
01:13:24,833 --> 01:13:26,904
This is base camp
Call Serbia
1155
01:13:26,935 --> 01:13:30,405
You know some information
about Gerard, the Irish guide,
1156
01:13:30,439 --> 01:13:33,477
of the Norit expedition ?
1157
01:13:33,509 --> 01:13:34,715
What I heard was "Jimmy,"
1158
01:13:34,743 --> 01:13:37,622
but "Jumik and Put
in trouble."
1159
01:13:37,646 --> 01:13:39,057
They are Korean Sherpas.
1160
01:13:39,081 --> 01:13:40,788
Yes.
1161
01:13:40,816 --> 01:13:44,992
And then Rolf
/> and then "Prenmaldik"?
1162
01:13:45,020 --> 01:13:50,663
I don't even understand that
Other people have died.
1163
01:13:50,692 --> 01:13:53,639
I was shocked.
1164
01:13:53,662 --> 01:13:57,838
I remember a phone calls
I have to be my father-in-law.
1165
01:13:58,901 --> 01:14:01,313
I'm so scared
to make that phone call
1166
01:14:01,336 --> 01:14:05,546
He'll be mad at me
for not looking after his son .
1167
01:14:10,546 --> 01:14:14,756
But on the contrary, he said...
1168
01:14:17,653 --> 01:14:19,098
"You have to get it
from the mountain."
1169
01:14:19,121 --> 01:14:20,725
"You have to go home."
1170
01:14:26,562 --> 01:14:28,405
p>
1171
01:14:30,365 --> 01:14:32,345
Yes.
1173
01:14:37,773 --> 01:14:39,377
I don't want to lose
my husband,
1174
01:14:42,478 --> 01:14:46,551
Of course, my best friend...
1175
01:14:46,582 --> 01:14:50,724
And my future
1176
01:15:14,142 --> 01:15:16,952
as I expected.
1179
01:15:22,551 --> 01:15:24,724
"What's the matter
are they here?"
1182
01:15:52,001 --> 01:15:54,984
I have some spare gloves,
So I give gloves.
1186
01:16:01,156 --> 01:16:03,636
I just, you know,
surprised by that
1187
01:16:05,928 --> 01:16:07,339
I said, "Listen."
1188
01:16:07,362 --> 01:16:08,534
"I have to go down"
1189
01:16:08,564 --> 01:16:10,407
"Because I started
to get snow-blind.
1190
01:16:10,432 --> 01:16:11,570
And he said, "Yes, yes,"
1191
01:16:11,600 --> 01:16:15,571
"But help is also on the way,
so go ahead. "
1192
01:16:15,604 --> 01:16:17,709
I will send help
1193
01:16:35,857 --> 01:16:38,599
Everything is up there
by themselves.
1194
01:16:38,627 --> 01:16:40,538
They don't move anywhere.
1195
01:16:40,562 --> 01:16:45,272
They just sit still,
just waiting to get help
1196
01:16:48,303 --> 01:16:50,977
South Korea
the expedition leader, Kim,
1197
01:16:51,006 --> 01:16:54,476
is arranging a rescue mission.
1198
01:16:54,509 --> 01:16:56,819
>
1199
01:16:56,845 --> 01:17:01,157
"They don't stand up,
move one meter,"
1200
01:17:01,183 --> 01:17:04,221
"and you tell me
that I have to go there"
1201
01:17:04,252 --> 01:17:06,357
"when es
Still falling? "
1202
01:17:06,388 --> 01:17:08,265
There is no fixed network.
1203
01:17:08,290 --> 01:17:09,826
There is no string.
1204
01:17:09,858 --> 01:17:13,169
I mean, it's just crazy.
1205
01:17:13,195 --> 01:17:15,607
This is not a guided tour.
1206
01:17:15,631 --> 01:17:18,703
We cannot physically pick
people from this mountain
1207
01:17:21,503 --> 01:17:23,107
Then the American team, they said,
1208
01:17:23,138 --> 01:17:25,778
" Since we don't have enough labor, "
1209
01:17:25,807 --> 01:17:27,787
" we can't go alone,
a rescue, "
1210
01:17:27,809 --> 01:17:31,154
" because physically
we are all very weak. "
1211
01:17:31,179 --> 01:17:34,285
" Still jammed,
is very dangerous. "
1212
01:17:34,316 --> 01:17:37,058
" Then, now we have to go down. "
1213
01:17:43,525 --> 01:17:45,027
Understood .
Understood.
1214
01:17:45,060 --> 01:17:47,040
Most people,
they move from -
1215
01:17:48,063 --> 01:17:50,043
Get off from Camp Four,
1216
01:17:50,065 --> 01:17:51,874
move down.
1217
01:17:51,900 --> 01:17:53,607
Then, uh...
1218
01:17:53,635 --> 01:17:55,239
In our group,
1219
01:17:55,270 --> 01:17:59,582
Kim insists that we
go to save.
1220
01:18:05,714 --> 01:18:08,593
We have no choice.
1221
01:18:08,617 --> 01:18:12,292
We must follow
their instructions
1222
01:18:12,320 --> 01:18:17,463
They pay us ,
1223
01:18:17,492 --> 01:18:24,068
and they act
like they have our lives.
1224
01:18:46,021 --> 01:18:47,796
I'm very thirsty, you know,
1225
01:18:47,823 --> 01:18:51,464
and I know I'm getting crazy
/> within a few hours,
1226
01:18:51,493 --> 01:18:53,871
because if you don't have
water at that height
1227
01:18:53,895 --> 01:18:56,808
for a long time,
you won't survive.
1228
01:19:26,394 --> 01:19:28,965
I looked up, and I saw
that Marco and Gerard
1229
01:19:28,997 --> 01:19:31,568
were with the Koreans.
1230
01:19:31,600 --> 01:19:33,409
Which way?
1231
01:19:36,671 --> 01:19:37,945
him.
1232
01:19:37,973 --> 01:19:40,817
That is the leader of Korean climbers.
1233
01:19:40,842 --> 01:19:44,255
But everything is ruined
1234
01:19:44,279 --> 01:19:51,493
with lots of blood everywhere.
1235
01:19:51,520 --> 01:19:57,994
I have worked for 15 years
in saving mountains,
1236
01:19:58,026 --> 01:20:02,566
and I have seen many things
and many people.
1237
01:20:04,232 --> 01:20:07,873
I know this is a bad situation.
1238
01:20:10,038 --> 01:20:11,676
Good.
Good.
1239
01:20:11,706 --> 01:20:12,707
You are fine.
1240
01:20:26,121 --> 01:20:29,364
You have to save yourself in K2.
1241
01:20:29,391 --> 01:20:32,031
This is the only way.
1242
01:20:36,331 --> 01:20:39,244
I have never tried
to take credit
1243
01:20:39,267 --> 01:20:44,717
from Lacedelli and Compagnoni
conquered K2,
1244
01:20:44,739 --> 01:20:45,979
neither did I.
1245
01:20:47,676 --> 01:20:52,523
But Mahdi and I
were written from the story.
1246
01:20:53,949 --> 01:20:56,555
Our sacrifice
completely removed
1247
01:20:56,585 --> 01:20:59,259
in official records
1248
01:20:59,287 --> 01:21:03,793
Then lied to
behind my back for decades.
1249
01:21:03,825 --> 01:21:07,637
They say we use oxygen < br /> to save ourselves.
1250
01:21:07,662 --> 01:21:09,767
This is oxygen, your mind,
1251
01:21:09,798 --> 01:21:13,803
It's Lino and Achille
used to reach the top.
1252
01:21:15,203 --> 01:21:18,343
For 30 years,
I have been attacked,
1253
01:21:18,373 --> 01:21:21,684
been accused, provoked, and slandered
1254
01:21:21,710 --> 01:21:24,657
p>
1255
01:21:24,679 --> 01:21:28,058
all because I volunteered
my own life
1256
01:21:29,351 --> 01:21:34,266
in the service of my people
and my country
1257
01:21:39,327 --> 01:21:41,500
Without Mahdi and me,
K2 will still be a dream.
1258
01:21:41,529 --> 01:21:46,069
We work together.
1259
01:21:46,101 --> 01:21:47,944
I found a walkie-talkie
under Sherpa
1260
01:21:47,969 --> 01:21:49,744
I talked to someone.
1261
01:21:49,771 --> 01:21:50,806
>
1262
01:21:50,839 --> 01:21:54,685
I don't know who it is
who is listening
1263
01:21:54,709 --> 01:21:57,155
I speak.
1264
01:21:57,178 --> 01:22:00,716
I said,
"I can't speak English."
1265
01:22:00,749 --> 01:22:01,819
"I speak English Tarzan."
1266
01:22:01,850 --> 01:22:06,230
I said, "I am Marco.
I am called."
1267
01:22:06,254 --> 01:22:09,428
But then Ger,
he returned a little.
1268
01:22:09,457 --> 01:22:11,903
I don't understand why.
1269
01:22:11,927 --> 01:22:15,534
I don't know if he wants
to attract Koreans still.
1270
01:22:15,563 --> 01:22:21,309
I speak on the radio,
and then I start down.
1271
01:22:27,676 --> 01:22:32,716
All I can think of
go, hang on
1272
01:22:33,848 --> 01:22:35,486
I have to survive.
1273
01:22:46,328 --> 01:22:47,932
Called a friend.
1274
01:22:47,963 --> 01:22:49,840
Ask him
if he comes
1275
01:22:49,864 --> 01:22:53,107
so I don't need to be alone.
1276
01:22:53,134 --> 01:22:55,671
He came to the door,
1277
01:22:55,704 --> 01:22:57,650
and he gripped me,
and he said,
1278
01:22:57,672 --> 01:23:01,085
"We will be
from the mountain."
1279
01:23:24,699 --> 01:23:27,009
Okay, you have to bring it down.
1280
01:23:27,035 --> 01:23:29,208
Kim says
we must continue to climb higher
1281
01:23:29,237 --> 01:23:31,274
and find the Korean team.
1282
01:23:36,244 --> 01:23:38,622
He lives,
1283
01:23:38,646 --> 01:23:41,490
but nobody -
would like to come with me
1284
01:23:41,516 --> 01:23:44,622
But everyone says,
"No, it's still dangerous."
1285
01:23:44,652 --> 01:23:49,226
Then finally, I...
I started climbing again.
1286
01:24:00,668 --> 01:24:03,410
He wore a green suit.
1287
01:24:03,438 --> 01:24:06,009
I know it's Marco.
1288
01:24:13,181 --> 01:24:17,027
If I don't have oxygen,
I can't lower it
1289
01:24:17,052 --> 01:24:20,226
because I can't bring it .
1290
01:24:28,963 --> 01:24:31,102
After ten minutes,
1291
01:24:31,132 --> 01:24:36,707
Marco tried to move
and tried to talk to me.
1292
01:24:50,418 --> 01:24:52,921
Please, Install.
1293
01:24:52,954 --> 01:24:58,199
I'm here with the Korean team.
1294
01:24:58,226 --> 01:25:00,399
They say,
"We saw Korean Sherpa"
1295
01:25:00,428 --> 01:25:01,532
"and the Korean team."
1296
01:25:01,563 --> 01:25:05,170
"Now we try
to get down together. "
1297
01:25:05,200 --> 01:25:08,340
Is there anyone else there?
1298
01:25:08,369 --> 01:25:11,077
There is one other climber,
1300
01:25:15,143 --> 01:25:18,920
What is the color of the
setting below it?
1301
01:25:18,947 --> 01:25:21,018
Red and black.
1302
01:25:24,152 --> 01:25:29,033
When they say,
then I think it could be Ger.
1303
01:25:58,486 --> 01:26:01,262
I don't know who the person is
rolled down
1304
01:26:01,289 --> 01:26:06,329
Then I got there ,
and I see two Korean bodies
1305
01:26:06,361 --> 01:26:12,437
ten meters away
from two other Sherpa bodies.
1306
01:26:12,467 --> 01:26:18,008
I know the backpack is
and boots and clothes down.
1307
01:27:22,570 --> 01:27:24,140
Everyone wants to survive...
1308
01:27:24,172 --> 01:27:27,244
doesn't matter if you have
a child or... or a wife at home.
1309
01:27:27,275 --> 01:27:30,017
Yes, there are
The last time I saw Gerard
1310
01:27:30,044 --> 01:27:31,717
and other Koreans,
1311
01:27:31,746 --> 01:27:33,851
but I don't know
what happened to them
1312
01:27:35,316 --> 01:27:38,695
Why... am I safe?
1313
01:27:38,720 --> 01:27:42,429
Yes, that... it's just a matter of
from... stupid...
1314
01:27:42,457 --> 01:27:44,664
yeah, damn
at the wrong time
1315
01:27:44,692 --> 01:27:46,467
and the wrong place.
1316
01:27:50,732 --> 01:27:52,803
Wilco, our expedition leader,
1317
01:27:52,834 --> 01:27:56,281
Return with the helicopter
because he froze his legs.
1318
01:27:56,304 --> 01:27:58,545
And there is a second helicopter
for Marco
1319
01:27:58,573 --> 01:28:01,281
He smothered his hands very badly,
1320
01:28:01,309 --> 01:28:04,017
so he can't use his hands
to get the rope again
1321
01:28:12,954 --> 01:28:14,695
The helicopter carries
the last congratulations
1322
01:28:14,722 --> 01:28:16,099
of a mission that is destined to climb
1323
01:28:16,124 --> 01:28:18,968
one of the world
the most challenging mountain
1324
01:28:18,993 --> 01:28:22,270
Marco Confortola Italia
saved from K2
1325
01:28:22,297 --> 01:28:24,106
almost five days
after an avalanche
1326
01:28:24,132 --> 01:28:26,612
sweep several climbers
and strand someone else.
1327
01:28:26,634 --> 01:28:28,580
And very frozen
1328
01:28:28,603 --> 01:28:31,106
from trying to help
save others in the group
1329
01:28:31,139 --> 01:28:34,018
Instinct, he said,
makes you want to do that
1330
01:28:34,042 --> 01:28:35,521
Confortola said that the expedition
1331
01:28:35,543 --> 01:28:38,786
was disturbed by
experience and bad equipment.
1332
01:28:38,813 --> 01:28:41,919
He says some ropes and nails
break easily
1333
01:28:41,949 --> 01:28:44,953
Different people
say different things.
1334
01:28:46,354 --> 01:28:48,300
There is a lot of confusion.
1335
01:28:48,323 --> 01:28:50,269
There are many stories,
1336
01:28:50,291 --> 01:28:54,205
but Marco's story
be the story.
1337
01:28:54,228 --> 01:28:56,606
We are all ready,
1338
01:28:56,631 --> 01:28:58,633
all alpine climbers
1339
01:28:58,666 --> 01:29:03,638
We are people who know what we do,
1340
01:29:03,671 --> 01:29:06,550
but it's K2,
the most difficult mountain.
1341
01:29:08,042 --> 01:29:11,956
This person has
a terrible experience up there
1342
01:29:13,448 --> 01:29:17,089
He was in a very bad condition,
both mentally and physically.
1343
01:29:18,920 --> 01:29:21,059
I said, "Look, I need..."
1344
01:29:21,089 --> 01:29:23,000
"Find out for sure, you know,"
1345
01:29:23,024 --> 01:29:24,697
"What happened here,
like, you know?
1346
01:29:24,726 --> 01:29:26,728
" I have to go to Pakistan. "
1347
01:29:35,629 --> 01:29:37,549
That's really scary,
because we don't know
1348
01:29:37,572 --> 01:29:38,550
what we enter for
1349
01:29:38,573 --> 01:29:42,214
And, I mean, I think half of me
1350
01:29:42,243 --> 01:29:43,688
The type that Ger
still believes is still alive,
1351
01:29:43,711 --> 01:29:46,214
and the other half
don't believe.
1352
01:29:46,247 --> 01:29:48,318
The next day,
we have to meet Wilco and Cas.
1353
01:29:52,420 --> 01:29:55,492
I'm sorry.
I just hope he life.
1354
01:29:55,523 --> 01:29:58,026
But he said he saw
Ger fall, and the story...
1355
01:29:59,627 --> 01:30:01,538
And in my heart, there is hope.
1356
01:30:01,562 --> 01:30:03,838
- I know this is ridiculous.
- Yes, I understand.
1357
01:30:03,865 --> 01:30:06,539
- So he - he is dead?
- Yes of course. what do Marco convey directly to us.
1358
01:30:06,567 --> 01:30:10,709
Wilco and Cas,
1359
01:30:10,738 --> 01:30:11,944
they are obviously nervous
1360
01:30:11,973 --> 01:30:13,646
because our brother
has died, You know,
1361
01:30:13,674 --> 01:30:18,020
and they live.
1362
01:30:18,045 --> 01:30:19,524
dan mereka hidup.
1363
01:30:19,547 --> 01:30:21,390
Mengapa kita berpisah?
1364
01:30:21,416 --> 01:30:23,521
Why don't we see
each other?
1365
01:30:23,551 --> 01:30:26,191
The only explanation is because we are too -
1366
01:30:26,220 --> 01:30:27,927
too long at altitude.
1367
01:30:27,955 --> 01:30:30,697
Marco's account is,
he sits there with Ger,
1368
01:30:30,725 --> 01:30:32,830
Then there are three people
in front of them
1369
01:30:32,860 --> 01:30:35,204
And suddenly, < br /> the people disappeared.
1370
01:30:35,229 --> 01:30:36,867
So they were very scared,
1371
01:30:36,898 --> 01:30:38,605
they decided,
"Let's just sit here
1372
01:30:38,633 --> 01:30:41,239
" and wait until noon, "no?
1373
01:30:41,269 --> 01:30:43,146
And then he says you are following,
1374
01:30:43,171 --> 01:30:44,445
but then... then...
1375
01:30:44,472 --> 01:30:46,110
No, no, no, that's not true,
1376
01:30:46,140 --> 01:30:47,676
because we started together.
1377
01:30:47,708 --> 01:30:49,585
So you're all...
You bivouacked all together?
1378
01:30:49,610 --> 01:30:51,021
- Yeah.
- You never come later?
1379
01:30:51,045 --> 01:30:52,149
No.
1380
01:30:52,180 --> 01:30:53,659
One thing that always happens
wait in my head
1381
01:30:53,681 --> 01:30:56,218
and is still valid to this day
is...
1382
01:30:56,250 --> 01:30:57,571
how many people
on the mountain
1383
01:30:57,585 --> 01:31:00,065
Can have a different story
about the same event
1384
01:31:00,087 --> 01:31:02,260
And then we return
at night,
1385
01:31:02,290 --> 01:31:04,736
and then after-
and then the next morning,
1386
01:31:04,759 --> 01:31:06,602
everything happened.
1387
01:31:06,627 --> 01:31:08,937
They have information
1388
01:31:08,963 --> 01:31:12,137
about a little
Wilco remembers
1389
01:31:12,166 --> 01:31:15,113
and a little
Cas can remember
1390
01:31:15,136 --> 01:31:17,309
and what they hear
Marco remembers.
1391
01:31:17,338 --> 01:31:19,375
And they draw a map for us,
1392
01:31:19,407 --> 01:31:20,818
You know, the terrain is
1393
01:31:20,842 --> 01:31:23,550
where they think < br /> things happen.
1394
01:31:23,578 --> 01:31:26,184
Marco is a very emotional boy.
1395
01:31:26,214 --> 01:31:27,284
He...
1396
01:31:27,315 --> 01:31:28,316
Yes, and he really... .
1397
01:31:28,349 --> 01:31:32,126
He... at the end...
he is very tired
1398
01:31:34,455 --> 01:31:36,867
They don't know anymore.
1399
01:31:36,891 --> 01:31:42,534
Cas and Wilco have been flown into the air
from the mountain
1400
01:31:42,563 --> 01:31:47,740
There is no debriefing
with the rest of the team,
1401
01:31:47,768 --> 01:31:49,805
and they really don't know.
1402
01:31:51,906 --> 01:31:57,049
>
1403
01:31:57,078 --> 01:31:58,148
He just started
getting confused.
1404
01:31:58,179 --> 01:31:59,317
We need more.
1405
01:31:59,347 --> 01:32:01,725
Do you know what I mean?
1406
01:32:01,749 --> 01:32:05,492
That's not enough.
1408
01:32:11,359 --> 01:32:13,862
For some reason, we feel
we need to talk to Pemba.
1409
01:32:13,895 --> 01:32:17,001
but Pemba
and the rest of the Norit team
1410
01:32:18,132 --> 01:32:20,043
are hiking out ,
and it takes two days.
1411
01:32:20,067 --> 01:32:23,344
Also, mentally,
Psychologically,
1412
01:32:23,371 --> 01:32:24,372
Marco is almost angry.
1413
01:32:24,405 --> 01:32:28,547
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
1414
01:32:28,576 --> 01:32:31,386
Because when I try
to give oxygen,
1416
01:32:33,714 --> 01:32:36,524
he is angry with me
1417
01:32:36,551 --> 01:32:37,996
He always talks
/> negative, negative,
1418
01:32:38,019 --> 01:32:40,226
always cry
1419
01:32:40,254 --> 01:32:41,289
"You're a fucking person,"
1420
01:32:41,322 --> 01:32:44,269
"why did you come here
to pick me up?"
1421
01:32:44,292 --> 01:32:45,430
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
1422
01:32:45,459 --> 01:32:46,699
- That is...
- Don't really understand.
1423
01:32:46,727 --> 01:32:48,502
- We say a head case.
- Yeah.
1426
01:32:54,001 --> 01:32:57,244
and all the headlines people
left too
1428
01:32:58,439 --> 01:33:01,477
Maybe he has something
to say
1429
01:33:01,509 --> 01:33:03,716
What happened in K2,
1430
01:33:03,744 --> 01:33:05,314
the story of rescue,
1431
01:33:05,346 --> 01:33:11,388
is that I tried
for three or four hours
1432
01:33:11,419 --> 01:33:14,093
to help the boy.
1433
01:33:14,121 --> 01:33:18,297
That's something that just came
1434
01:33:18,326 --> 01:33:23,605
From my heart.
1435
01:33:23,631 --> 01:33:28,979
That happened after that
that I paid the consequences.
1436
01:33:29,003 --> 01:33:30,744
What Marco did on the mountain...
1437
01:33:30,771 --> 01:33:32,011
no one can take that
away from him
1438
01:33:32,039 --> 01:33:33,382
He is a hero on the mountain.
1439
01:33:33,407 --> 01:33:34,681
I mean, family always-
to this day,
1441
01:33:36,310 --> 01:33:37,310
"He is a hero."
1442
01:33:40,181 --> 01:33:41,990
But the story is
changed from Marco
1443
01:33:42,016 --> 01:33:44,656
from what he
originally came outwith.
1444
01:33:44,685 --> 01:33:46,426
He said
Ger was always in front,
1445
01:33:46,454 --> 01:33:48,832
that Ger left it.
1446
01:33:48,856 --> 01:33:51,962
In a day or two, the story was
being spread in the newspaper.
1447
01:33:58,299 --> 01:34:00,973
Marco was indeed
the last living witness
1448
01:34:01,002 --> 01:34:02,606
had seen Ger.
1449
01:34:02,637 --> 01:34:05,117
So to hear these stories
Ger is always ahead,
1450
01:34:05,139 --> 01:34:06,846
he is hallucinating,
1451
01:34:06,874 --> 01:34:09,718
His body is scattered
the whole mountain -
1452
01:34:09,744 --> 01:34:11,223
this is very sad
for us, like
1453
01:34:14,248 --> 01:34:15,955
He changed the story
several times,
1454
01:34:15,983 --> 01:34:21,797
which of course doesn't help
do it all.
1455
01:34:23,891 --> 01:34:28,601
Dan... and, you know, the story
has a lot of influence
1456
01:34:28,629 --> 01:34:31,371
because everyone is gone,
1457
01:34:31,399 --> 01:34:33,606
everyone has perished
1458
01:34:33,634 --> 01:34:36,843
So you could say
Whatever you want.
1459
01:34:36,871 --> 01:34:42,617
Who is there who's there
to contradict what you say,
1460
01:34:42,643 --> 01:34:43,678
except Pemba.
1461
01:34:45,746 --> 01:34:48,124
Look, what we have is just a story
to stick to,
1462
01:34:48,149 --> 01:34:50,129
and-and now all
stories are different.
1463
01:34:50,151 --> 01:34:52,688
And this is very difficult, do you know?
1464
01:34:52,720 --> 01:34:54,290
Every story is different,
1465
01:34:54,321 --> 01:34:55,322
and that's all we have.
1466
01:34:55,356 --> 01:34:56,892
We don't have a body.
1467
01:34:56,924 --> 01:34:58,267
But why do we ask...
1468
01:34:58,292 --> 01:35:01,239
because now I am,
what is your story
1469
01:35:01,262 --> 01:35:04,141
is that yourself
a little lower
1470
01:35:04,165 --> 01:35:06,008
than Gerard's body, so...
1471
01:35:06,033 --> 01:35:09,606
Two fresh Sherpas
forced by the Korean leader
1472
01:35:09,637 --> 01:35:11,742
reach Korea,
1473
01:35:11,772 --> 01:35:16,118
only the top of couloir.
1474
01:35:16,143 --> 01:35:20,114
And then they
are down together.
1476
01:35:21,882 --> 01:35:22,986
the three of them are hanging,
1477
01:35:23,017 --> 01:35:24,496
but maybe
they have moved at that time.
1478
01:35:24,518 --> 01:35:29,524
Yes, at the same time,
1479
01:35:29,557 --> 01:35:32,094
three, four times,
the serac falls.
1480
01:35:32,126 --> 01:35:33,298
Multi-serac...
1481
01:35:33,327 --> 01:35:35,705
Pemba is the part missing
from the puzzle.
1482
01:35:35,730 --> 01:35:37,937
He holds the key
for many people's questions.
1483
01:35:39,834 --> 01:35:43,111
Ger has given his camera
to Pemba at the top,
1484
01:35:43,137 --> 01:35:46,311
has a Pemba (Bar camera
down and all
1485
01:35:46,340 --> 01:35:49,014
And he keeps taking
pictures of what's happening
1486
01:35:53,714 --> 01:35:55,159
It's clear, if so,
why Ger rejects
1487
01:35:55,182 --> 01:35:56,593
down the mountain.
1488
01:35:56,617 --> 01:35:57,789
There are people in trouble.
1489
01:35:59,687 --> 01:36:02,133
Ger never goes,
1490
01:36:02,156 --> 01:36:03,436
will never leave them after
1491
01:36:06,360 --> 01:36:10,274
It will destroy it
to just leave the Koreans.
1492
01:36:10,297 --> 01:36:11,674
It will eat it,
1493
01:36:11,699 --> 01:36:17,843
and it will definitely haunt him today
and night, I think.
1494
01:36:20,107 --> 01:36:22,883
At first, we were not told
the Ger returned to the scene.
1495
01:36:22,910 --> 01:36:24,912
It came out
soon.
1496
01:36:30,584 --> 01:36:32,393
When we meet, < br /> Pemba knows something
1497
01:36:32,419 --> 01:36:35,457
that we don't know
at that time -
1498
01:36:35,489 --> 01:36:38,129
the second radio call
1499
01:36:38,159 --> 01:36:39,433
Please, Install.
1500
01:36:39,460 --> 01:36:43,340
>
1501
01:36:44,732 --> 01:36:47,611
I'm here with the Korean team.
1502
01:36:51,305 --> 01:36:55,048
They meet Koreans
at the top of the traffic.
1503
01:36:55,075 --> 01:36:57,385
That means they travel
from the place they are stuck,
1504
01:36:59,947 --> 01:37:01,290
all the way across across.
1505
01:37:01,315 --> 01:37:03,454
Ger frees them.
1506
01:37:07,221 --> 01:37:08,461
No one else
is there to do it
1507
01:37:08,489 --> 01:37:10,833
we will do everything
for each other.
1508
01:37:10,858 --> 01:37:12,201
But what Gerard did -
1509
01:37:12,226 --> 01:37:14,137
is not only in his own team...
hehe. ..
1510
01:37:14,161 --> 01:37:15,970
he fought for his life
1511
01:37:15,996 --> 01:37:18,499
and even for the life of
from Koreans
1512
01:37:22,536 --> 01:37:24,880
Did they succeed in dropping it
to Kamp Empat with safe,
1513
01:37:24,905 --> 01:37:28,045
it will be
one of the most amazing stories
1514
01:37:28,075 --> 01:37:31,522
in the history of mountaineering,
do you know?
1515
01:37:31,545 --> 01:37:34,321
Rather, < br /> because they're exposed to ice,
1516
01:37:34,348 --> 01:37:35,349
This is tragedy,
1517
01:37:35,382 --> 01:37:37,419
and then that
becomes controversial.
1518
01:37:46,460 --> 01:37:49,930
Ger is right in its nature
to the end.
1519
01:37:51,732 --> 01:37:53,336
That's what he-
That's him.
1520
01:38:14,855 --> 01:38:17,426
If it takes 100 years,
1521
01:38:17,458 --> 01:38:19,495
the truth
must be admitted
1522
01:38:19,526 --> 01:38:23,872
by whom to whom the verdict
belongs to
1523
01:38:25,966 --> 01:38:28,469
Often,
when someone loses lives,
1524
01:38:28,502 --> 01:38:32,473
what goes down is held,
you know,
1525
01:38:32,506 --> 01:38:34,247
under a microscope.
1526
01:38:34,275 --> 01:38:36,118
And some people might say,
"They should do this,
1527
01:38:36,143 --> 01:38:38,817
and they
should not do that."
1528
01:38:38,846 --> 01:38:40,655
Just because you survive
Mount
1529
01:38:40,681 --> 01:38:42,422
doesn't make you expert,
and it's not -
1530
01:38:42,449 --> 01:38:44,986
I don't think so
gives you the right to -
1531
01:38:45,019 --> 01:38:47,158
to say that someone
made a mistake, you know,
1532
01:38:47,187 --> 01:38:48,495
because you only-
you know,
1533
01:38:48,522 --> 01:38:51,526
If you aren't there,
you don't know.
1534
01:38:51,558 --> 01:38:54,903
Only the mountain knows.