I think people are interested in trying to find out
what really happened to our minds
8,000 meters , You are in the death zone.
There is a struggle.
There is a fight in every breath,
in every thought
Everything hurts.
Every member of the body, every cell scream,
"Oxygen, oxygen, oxygen."
You don't feel cold anymore.
Time seems to still stand.
There are many reasons to turn around
and only a few reasons to continue .
In one hand,
people question us climb mountains like K2.
On the other hand,
they angry why don't people go up
and save people
in this terrible environment.
Where you will probably be killed
by doing that.
There will be many things we will not never know,
But the question you have to ask yourself.
"What will you do?"
Your thoughts, climbers K2 , huh?
This is amazing
There is Nanga.
K2?
Nanga. Nanga. </ p >
Nanga Parbat.
- Yeah. - Dear God.
And then we will show you K2, your goal is okay?
p>
We are on our way.
- Up there. - yes?
Shouts!
You have to run this a little
Because there is a rockfall.
Very?
Go. Go. Go.
Dirt.
It's good to go back here,
and like to wake up < br /> for this scene this morning
My belief is that everyone has a love of climbing.
You know, the first thing the child wants to do </ p >
is climbing something
Rock climbing art is relearning
what you know intuitively as a child.
You are very respectful for this mountain
and all climbers who did it before you
If you want to have a good story on birthday party,
You know, you climb Everest,
but K2 really, I think, for real mountaineers.
- Hello! - Hello
How are you? </ P>
Baik.
Good view, I think.
I think it's quite difficult to defeat, actually
There's something different between people from the Himalayas
p>
and from the Western world.
This is very different, because Westerners,
they are more adventurous
They are more love adventure.
Our people also like adventure,
but they like to climb.
Where are we?
Oh, we are now climb K2.
All right.
Yes.
The first person to climb K2
from my valley, Achille Compagnoni. </ P>
So K2 is our mountain. </ P>
Everything is raw. </ P>
This is a glacier. </ P>
This is a black mountain. </ P>
This fills you with respect.
The higher, the more interesting the result.
So when it comes to climbing 8,000 meters peak,
You want to do it,
but at the same time, you have this fear.
This is serious.
This is real.
If you make a mistake, you are history
Finally here. What a relief.
Fantastic work
Good work.
Let's go up the tent, the stove goes,
and get ready for tonight. </ P>
Good? </ P>
Yes. </ P>
For three months, we were on this expedition,
so when we arrived at Camp Four, it was a magical moment. </ P>
The whole earth was beside you.
And then you look behind you.
You see another mountain.
And it's K2. This is a mountain in the mountain.
Ger will come. I'm shooting.
I ask Ger, "How do you feel?" </ P>
And you know, he almost cried
Ah, so happy to be here,
I can almost crying.
& apos; 06, we fail to arrive here
Here we are now,
and that's amazing
You can hear his voice, you know.
"That's something we already achieved," you know?
"Something's already there."
That's what he said.
We have a brilliant night.
There are no clouds.
Nothing.
And then we go to the top.
- Are you afraid? - No.
- No? - Me.
- No. - I'm afraid to die.
It feels, as a whole, like... like this is our day
So we moved along the slope above four.
Fred and I start out a little slower
We both feel very strong, very positive
There are perfect conditions.
I mean, we're talking about one day in a million.
There is no day like this I can remember ,
because it's warm.
Start quite lightly to see the route ahead.
And I look up,
see a meeting group climbers
move very slowly
They don't move.
What do they do?
We back in the past.
We're really late
I don't know anything we will do it
Very disappointing.
I was so devastated.
You tried hard for months,
and then you realize that there is no way
that we will be able to to the top
and go back down during the day.
We just came down.
Simple like that.
Everyone thinks so down is a little easy.
Makes sense,
but don't trust for one minute
I climbed on & apos; 54 for my country,
for Italy
At that time, It seems like suicide.
Nobody knows what will happen to the human body or mind
at that height
They tested us in a silly way
for months.
I don't care
Of the 11 climbers selected for the K2 expedition,
I, Walter Bonatti, are the youngest.
I should have died in K2.
But it happened to influence me most deeply
After climbing.
That's the story.
Many other climbers ever existed on Everest
or else... 8,000 other before K2.
I am not more height of 6,200.
I just want to come along to see how high I can get.
When we finally get to jam,
actually a- crashes.
Serac is the main danger.
It is possible that is almost 100 meters high,
a little protrude.
And it can crack at any time.
This place is very, very smooth
is famous.
Ice can go down at any time.
This is Russian roulette.
That's what it is.
The main tactic what should be avoided the danger of serac
is to be fast,
to minimize the time when you get hit by it.
It's not with good feeling, waiting there
We really respect for serac, yes
We know that it is...
Little monsters up there. </ P>
I put ice screws in...
You have lots of people come back
with all the weight < br /> It's on the rope,
it pulls the screw.
Now that's a concern.
Above 8,000, You can only trust yourself.
We want to cross out to the right
to rest outside the rope remains.
It's tiring waiting in line.
You can't climb at your own pace.
Some others also want to wait there
until people have passed.
The bigger the chain, the greater the
the chance is
that someone in this chain
who, you know, made a mistake
Dren, he let go of the rope /> and try to get past me.
Aah!
We're all shocked When he falls,
But when he stops,
> he stood up and waved.
So we thought he was fine.
He stood up.
He was fine.
But then we see it falling again
Yes, right on the edge.
- Yeah. - Yeah.
- What happened? - What did you see?
Yes, Chhiring, this is Eric, Camp Four, ends.
I take my camera, and I zoom in,
How is someone can fall? on this perfect day?
There is no wind This is bright.
That's good.
How is that possible ?
Chhiring, I understand
that you and Pemba are climbing.
More.
He is here.
There is that stone.
- Yeah. - Lower this
He is still alive.
We have to do something.
>
Chhiring, do you know if... if everyone
falls at this point?
More.
Should we turn around, you know, to try to help?
We talked about it, and then we said,
"Listen, people Serbia will go down. "</ P>
" We know Americans are there, you know
"I think that doesn't make sense, you know, for down. "
There is no big conversation
with each other about the accident.
After three, four minutes,
They start climbing again
I like, "I will save this person."
"I will save him."
"There is no way he will die, "
" Not today, it's impossible. "
" That won't happen. "
I just shot.
He hit the rock, lost control,
keeps falling for another 200 meters,
and stops.
Then I start going down.
There may be two people below me,
so I go down pretty fast, maybe & apos; IO minutes.
He's wrapped in a rope
and just doesn't sign live.
It's very pale and gray,
a wound on the head, black nose, broken,
blood from mouth
- Done - complete total, almost.
If I know that Dren is dead,
I will not go up.
>
Serbs, they want to bring it
down to base camp
I said it was impossible.
"What we can do is we can "
"and give him a burial right there."
To be honest, what's the point lowering the body
from 8,150 meters to 7,800?
8,000 meters, You are in the death zone.
Each step is a burden.
But if you have a body, This is is a terrible burden.
Okay, we have to go down like this, guys
- Yes, yes. - whoop
</ P>
Yes. </ P>
If you fall, you release it, okay? </ P>
It & apos; s-it & apos; s-it & apos; s- that's our life too okay?
- Yeah, yeah - remember
Jehan Baig, from Pakistan,
Suddenly it starts acting very strange.
He goes down on my right side,
holds the rope,
walking around my lower leg,
and we cry...
Remove the rope!
He did not take a single step to stop his fall.
Jesus Christ.
On the contrary, he just let go,
and he shot like a rocket
Jump into the open air
and just disappear.
Oh, K2,
That's full of surprises.
Conquest on & apos; 54 is much more complicated
than we can ever imagine
But believe me, we come ready
We are 11 climbers.
With us, 13 Hunzas and Balti battalions,
who are humble, outstanding local porters
After endless months from preparation,
It starts with a fantastic march to the foot of the top
through exotic, eternal scenery
We surround the mountain for two months tiring.
We set up base camp
and then start building camps
Along the way up the mountain,
adjust to our bodies < br> to altitude,
which is unknown,
prepare ourselves for the ultimate effort -
anything to help us survive.
To commemorate Art Gilkey, Dudley Wolfe, Install Kitar.
1954. unreliable
& apos; 94.
There are many people
who just died on the way down from the top.
Yes.
Dead to... dies of offspring.
Almost everyone you can read it,
"Died while going down."
Yes.
This is the original cross.
Everyone says, all Westerners,
p>
even our Sherpa community,
they said to me, "Why did you go to K2?"
"Because it's too dangerous"
"and the accident rate is too high."
If you go up in K2, you have to trust each other.
Fully 200%.
Gerard said, "Hey, listen."
"It would be nice if I could bring Pemba."
And Pemba was a Sherpa,
but many people are thinking about Sherpa
that he is just an ordinary person
who raised goods up the mountain
But Pemba is really...
He is a professional climber like us
You have a good trip, bro
Yes, yes.
- fantastic /> - What is your question? </ P>
Do we need boiling rice in-the-bag? </ P>
Take good care. </ P>
You know, yes, that's one thing
that I'm worried about whether it's Pemba
may not be too first to freeze dry food.
Oh no, but we have real rice too
- Yeah. - Yeah.
Action.
Hey. </ P>
I found a good friend in Gerard. </ P>
He is a climber who has Ambition just like me. </ P>
Then You push the boundary,
you know, higher and, yes,
and then end in the Himalayas. </ P>
Whoa!
- Hey - what?
Hey!
Ger is a very high quality climber,
and besides,
>
he is a very social child,
more socially then the average climber.
The most important thing for all expeditions this
is for fun
and laughs with your friends.
Thank you.
There are two people I've met in my life
who can walk in a room
and basically change energy in the room,
and Ger McDonnell is one of them
He does many things, and he does 150%
whatever he chooses to do
and Denali are the highest mountains
in North America.
I wonder how my reaction is to the height of
Me and Mike above. </ P>
Minus 20. </ P>
Denali has a
sort of certain mystic, magical power over Ger. </ P>
That was the beginning of big boys,
Big climbs. </ P>
2003, I was the leader of the expedition
on Mount Everest.
We have a small team.
Ger, he is very excited,
and he explodes full of energy.
Ireland!
My Irish
He knows how dangerous it is, Actually, climbing that mountain.
He knows more than 8,000 meters,
it is not called "death zone" for nothing
Every blood cell in your body is lacking in oxygen,
that turns off your brain cells.
Making logical decisions becomes more difficult </ p >
The longer you do it at high altitude,
the more vulnerable you are to your entire body
disintegration from within.
This creates mucus. </ P>
This creates fluid. </ P>
This actually starts to swell brain, lungs,
until, finally, you won't survive
In the highlands mountaineering,
there is an unwritten code
If that is the case that someone are dying,
and you know you will succeed Your life is at risk,
You must leave them.
This 8,000 meter item It's foreign to me at this time,
so I just follow direction, you know
Down, Pat is in a bad condition
and seems to move very slowly
and stop to rest.
And when I see that display on Pat's face...
ah, damn
I get pulmonary edema,
cerebral edema, thrombosis.
I lose oxygen, and I start to die.
There is... no energy in there.
And more than just lack of energy, there is...
actually, I think there is awareness
lack of energy ,
and I think there is also knowledge
that he knows it himself that he is in trouble
Pemba Gyalje and, in particular, Ger
are people that encourage me.
Yay!
If my team member doesn't help that day,
I might be very good myself
studded with rocks from Mount Everest forever,
never returned home to see my family
They said that was the most important
when you went climbing
will choose a good climbing pair
or someone that you are compatible with
I've... I'm lucky, you know , really.
There is Speedy Gonzales,
Pemba Gyalje.
Pemba is one person Ger wants to climb K2 with,
and they talked about it for years.
He likes climbing mountains. He knows he can do it.
He loves the mountain.
p>
Chhiring, do you know that everyone
dropped at this point?
More.
When the accident occurred, Gerard also asked,
"Do we have enough time? to reach the top, huh?" </ P>
"Aren't we late?" </ P>
And Pemba said, "No, no." </ P>
"We can reach the top." </ P>
"It's enough time." </ P>
Then we say, " All right. "</ P>
" So this is the decision, to continue. "</ P>
So we just moved. </ P>
We have a big Korean team in front .
Then you have your Norwegian,
then we are in the middle,
with the Spanish man in front.
I keep climbing. </ P>
I'm not waiting for
I don't see anyone else until I go down.
We climb, climb, climb,
and then you see the first person reach the top,
and then you think,
"Please let that be the end,"
you know, because you really ,
You know, tired.
At the last moment,
you really live fully.
I know the peak I am waiting for me
I have won it.
Alberto is a kind of mythical figure.
So I didn't see Alberto close it completely
until I met him When he was on his way down.
Then I asked him how far it was
Dan dia berkata, "Iya, kurang dari satu jam. "
At any time, you realize that it is within your reach.
You will feel it that you will succeed.
It's only a matter of time
to keep going to reach the top.
Yes!
Gerard, Gus, Pemba...
More
We are at the top of K2!
Whoo-hoo!
Yo yo yo.
The light is amazing, brilliant, you know
We are at the end of the earth,
Heaven is almost
You think, you know, "Here it is," You know? </ P>
"It's over, we've done it." </ P>
This is definitely the extreme place ,
but with the extreme come very pretty
In many ways, very extreme,
they are addictive
We are all very strong.
We usually talk.
We have no problems with altitude
We feel very good.
We are having fun at the top,
and now we will go down.
Marco came.
He said, "Someone must take a picture of me."
So I said, "Yes, yes, up, up."
"Fast, Fast."
Still clear. </ p >
It's not dark yet.
But the sun will go down.
Then you realize,
"Fuck, we have to go down," You know? "
Now the beginning that still exists.
President McAleese has said his thoughts
with the family from a Limerick man County
which is among the nine climbers
hilang dan takut mati di Himalaya.
Icefall in the world the second highest peak
that might have killed as many as a dozen climbers.
With a dozen of them caught
in the collapse of the enemy bells
just below the top...
Straddling the border from Pakistan and China,
K2 is a little smaller from Mount Everest,
but his reputation is always much bigger
And another Pakistani citizen, a French citizen,
and the Austrians are gone.
They meet on Friday, Friday August 1st.
I mean, come Saturday,
only-internet full of stories.
You have Fredrik Strang's story
about interesting bodies from the mountain
Wrong one climber, an American man, Nick Rice,
have a blog on Sunday,
and he says that Ger
refuses to go down Mount.
I mean, he said, "Refuse down the mountain." </ P>
Anyone who knows Ger knows what Ger means. </ P>
Something went wrong. </ P>
Someone might throw some comments on their blog
about what they think might happen
or, you know, some rumors they hear
and don't realize, like,
"Hey, let's wait for the people we love."
We depend in each word
and even how it was written
to get some sort of hint of what's going on
Those people
even during the tragedy still going on,
Actually on the mountain.
So come down, you are a little awkward
This... this isn't a problem...
It's always the same.
A true hero, you don't hear it.
The fool is,
if we are definitely successful, we are,
because we arrived at the top,
there is only like a small piece
in the newspaper, you know
And now, because 11 climbers died,
went all over the world
Everyone wants to know < br /> how is it possible
What happens to us
is only a matter of misfortune, do you know?
That is a success story until we go to the top.
We are the first expedition on the mountain.
We have a wonderful time,
because everything is really organized
We have good food.
We have a cook good.
Every detail is planned and organized.
We are a very strong team compared to other expeditions.
We put all our straps fixed -
everything we do with ourselves.
Bring the rope up to 8,000 meters,
p>
This is a great job.
The first four to five weeks,
every day fixing the rope
100 meters with 100 meters > with 100 meters,
and then return just with a rope, you know,
go to base camp
Camp Two, base camp. More.
Weather conditions- are also very bad for you
And maybe a good idea
to delay the project someday.
More.
No. It's impossible. </ P>
We must be ready in July. </ P>
We want to leave this expedition end of July,
because most accidents happened in August
The humidity gets bigger, you know
The danger of becoming more avalanches.
But we said, "OK."
"We want to go end of July."
That's the plan, and we are faster than the schedule.
And in that period,
p>
all the other teams arrived,
Koreans...
- Good luck. - very, very cold
Americans...
Serbs...
- Peaceful - Rest in peace?
French people...
Perfect.
And the Norwegian team.
No, unfortunately not.
There are lots of from different cultures up there,
Sherpas from Nepal,
highlanders from Pakistan. </ P>
There are several different approaches to climbing
South Koreans
are major major, such as, old style, large expeditions
Sherpa, oxygen, lots of ropes, and lots of camps.
Yes , beautiful day.
Norwegian expedition,
we are only four friends on the way
trying to climb K2.
It's time to get out whiskey, so...
Yes. </ P>
Yes, that's a good idea. </ P>
Saya suka wiski.
Gerard often visits us,
and we also visit them.
Dan-and Ger and Rolf are friends.
Both of them are the same type of guy.
When I met Rolf in 2003,
I felt that I met a soul mate.
In 2005, we went to K2 to try to get to know the mountains.
We were there for 93 days.
We just have to be a little higher than Camp Three. </ p >
So this time, I don't think we really think
that we will get to the top
Of course, You have to want that. </ P>
Otherwise you won't succeed. </ P>
But so much has to be done right for that to happen
wrong is weather.
For three weeks, it snowed, it was snowing, it was snowing
That's amazing.
80% chance of snow today.
8 kilometers wind at 8,000 meters. </ P>
He was ready to go home. </ P>
He said to me,
"I can't wait < br /> to have good food "
" and a glass of red wine. "
You know, he just... he is ready.
That is 60 days at that time
But if you get a weather window, you take it.
End of July, weather well enter,
but then everyone wants to use this window
So we say, "Let's talk, you know,"
"and let's try working together."
300 ropes for that make.
If you want, more than 50.
400 ropes, we fix.
We traveled 400 meters.
Then the Italian had 200 meters
to cross.
So 600 meters is quite a lot.
Maybe we need more.
We don't need more.
600 meters quite a lot, I think .
No, 700 will be better.
700? Okay, Kim says 700.
We have a lot of meetings
because if we work together, let's be clear.
We are with many people.
We share all workloads.
And , You know, 80% chance
that we will get to the top without problems
First, lead, second, help them,
third, make bamboo.
Ice?
- ice screw - ice crew
I always see base camp meeting
as an important key to success.
That is our chance to be together
and do this as a team.
Not South Koreans, Americans, Serbs,
as a team.
Only there is one top team...
Yes.
Of each group.
The question is also,
who climbs in front, Do you know?
We said, "Listen."
"Each team gives the strongest climber,"
"and that runner party. "
Two good climbers and one, two porters...
- Good. - Who brought the rope keep this?
Rope stays
This team starts one or two hours
before other members from Camp Four.
- Good. - Understood.
We are thinking, If the team is strongest,
You know, go to this section
and fix the rope through jams,
we can just follow the string and go to peak.
So very- it's a very safe plan
I don't know if you will go with a peak party...
It is clear to me and Rolf
that this will not happen as smooth as planned.
It feels too easy for us.
- no what can be done - Yeah, yes, okay
600 meters at the top.
Yes.
Our team is, uh, more. ..
If you start sharing responsibility
with others,
I think that in the end, as humans we relax.
We don't really do it what should we do
And K2 is right really demands knowing how to do something,
giving the correct answer, has answers for everyone
In a perfect world,
everyone is responsible for everyone.
Only the mountain reaches perfection
That's why you came to climb it.
They will never try K2
without the knowledge of and the expertise of the locals.
My partner who is not possible is named Mahdi.
He is the best from Hunzas.
On the eve of the summit,
we must take the last from oxygen to the last camp
and meet the main climber,
Lacedelli and Compagnoni.
The names are legendary now,
the two men finally conquered K2
for the first time in history
It could be that we were with them, Mahdi and myself.
We agreed, > if we are strong,
we will go too,
but we never find it.
We climb to the point of exhaustion
to their place It should be
and start crying for them.
When the sun disappears,
thin air starts gnaw at us.
As violence As a slap on the face,
the first gust of snow hit us directly
We just thought, < br> "it's just a problem"
"You know, one hour, and then the wind will drop."
But it doesn't go down.
That's actually... it went...
it becomes stronger and stronger.
It's like...
The wind goes like that,
and my camp is at this time has gone up
and me with a tent
It can't even be seen outside the tent.
Very critical situation.
Dear God. God. God. </ P>
That's it. Come on. </ P>
In you go
They put me in a sleeping bag.
I started shaking.
I was in a bad situation.
You're fine.
p>
All right, Wilco!
Wilco, this is Ger here!
by walkie-talkie
"Okay, Wilco, now we will bring it"
"in your camp because you have more space. "
This is not the time for nonsense now
The Serbian... I don't know...
But if he must have knocked in my camp,
I would say, "Listen."
"Get off immediately,"
"because I didn't can have you in my tent now "
" because I have to rest "
" Because I have to go to the top. "
We don't sleep all night. </ P>
Early in the morning, Ger is a little angry. </ P>
I'm not sure is he angry
because of what happened to me
or because of what happened between two of them
I'm really upset,
so I have to be clear that this person
won't go with us
And I say, "Listen. There's only one." </ P>
"You have to go back,"
"and I don't want to see you in the camp," you know ?
For me, I don't know.
I... myself, I feel... I don't know
how am I will continue my life
until I know- someone needs my help
There isn't much help, and I don't want to give him.
Many guys,
they are thinking They can climb K2
without oxygen, without ropes,
without bringing items right,
brings the right team
You can't climb just 8,000 meters high.
You-You don't carry any rope.
How do you want to climb this damn mountain?
Mm-hmm.
- This is totally irresponsible - How did you do it 2006?
Wilco was very direct and blunt.
He put his business card on the table.
There is no doubt about what he was thinking, you know
So I thought, you know, Ger That kind of thing he likes. </ P>
Both Ger and Wilco ,
they really have peaks in their eyes
You can see it.
On July 29, 2006, I got call from Ger.
I can still hear it say it to me.
He said, "Geez, JJ, this is very possible."
And he said, "I don't believe."
He said, "This is very easy to do."
They climbed from...
I thought it was an advanced base camp,
and they will ride to Camp Two in Abruzzi.
Ger is up, and what people say,
is actually an avalanche.
The telephone rings.
He said to me, "It's been an accident in K2."
And I said, " How bad? " And he said," Look... "
" You might bring-bring He goes home in a body bag. "</ P>
That's just God's action Thus,
like, I mean, a rock who caught it
And, I mean, the helmet is on at that moment he has it
maybe, maybe saved his life.
But I know - I always know from that - starting that night,
I know he will try and do this again,
like , you know
The bigger the dream, the greater the risk,
but you know, that dream is there.
Since then,
I know we will come back, you know,
and Ger will go with me again. </ P>
That's why, When we arrive at Camp Four,
is already a magical moment. </ P>
Ah, it's very nice to be here. </ P>
I can almost cry.
When you love someone and they like to do something,
You are happy for them.
Of course, is a dangerous mountain
Any mountain a dangerous mountain
But he knows he can climb it,
and he knows he can climb safely.
And I think he wants to go back
There's always something you don't talk about it
and what you don't expect,
and one thing is that in this meeting,
the leader of high altitude
p>
who made it, broke the trail,
I trust this person completely.
Do this...
But what that happened...
He was sick.
So there are no more leaders.
High-altitude lashes from Sherpa,
they will fix the rope,
and members of from Koreans,
they will double check string,
correctly affixed on the mountain.
You know, He is the climbing leader
of the big Korean team -
he will check everything at Camp Four,
But it didn't.
We have a plan.
12:00, the first party must move.
But at 11:00, Korean climbers
are still in tents,
keep smoking and smoking and...
Then finally I say, "No, < br /> Now we have to do it ourselves. "
Be this Sherpa, Pemba,
His face, I remember very clear that night
He is the type of person
that is transmitted security,
wants to know who I am,
how I got there at midnight .
I told him, "I climb solo",
"and I hope to go with you
The Summit offer is delayed
because people are hanging around like,
" Hey, where are the teeth? "</ P>
" Where is the equipment? "</ P>
" Where is the rope? "</ P>
We return to the past. </ P>
We are really late
Very disappointing.
Deaf heights,
they just started to fix the rope,
and Pemba is not a leader like that
who said, "Listen."
"We will do it like this," you know
p>
I was surprised
that they put the rope stays
in an area that doesn't need it.
Only, like, 10 meters < br /> from tents or something.
Suddenly, there is no progress anymore,
and people just stand there waiting.
And they shout back that they run out of rope.
We are thinking,
"For God's sake, how is this possible?"
The only thing you can do
will return, cut the rope,
and bring it, and that's what we do.
We are delayed by two hours,
and it's too long
You can't catch two hours at the summit bid.
Even though there are perfect conditions,
in the death zone, You only lose more energy.
Those people, they are too optimistic
to peak,
and that's why they keep climbing.
They forget a lot of things about security
Aah!
People think we're crazy.
How can you continue? if someone dies?
But if you drive a car, You see people having an accident.
You see people die in traffic.
You keep driving, & apos; because of you - </ p >
You think That won't happen to you.
I see.
Is he in stone?
- He is here . - Yeah.
- Stone.
Yes, right on the edge.
If everyone turned back
after the Serbian falls,
then I think there is only 1 victim on the mountain
not 11.
How are you?
Good.
But it's not a fun day today.
A hard day for me today.
Iya nih.
It's not a good day.
He said, "Go."
"You feel strong. You are strong."
"You go there... to the top with Lars." </ P>
And I look back many times,
and every time I look back
p>
and if he looks at me at the same time,
He, like, thumbs up
and likes, "Keep going."
Rolf and me, we talked a few times
Then Rolf said, "Now, Pemba, I want to go back"
"Because of these people very stupid "
" because there isn't talking to each other "
" about the time. "
" Really, I don't understand people. "
and it's so easy to just continue a little,
only half an hour to see.
He took the Rolf rabbit hat and danced at the top.
We just had a few minutes - taking pictures
Even in our most crazy dreams,
we won't dream of it to be beautiful
With that K2 shadow to China -
really beautiful
I enjoy the view,
But the only that is in our heads
is that we won't stay here for a long time
We will return.
We have to go back to the rope before dark.
We are at the top of K2!
Whoo-hoo!
Yo yo yo .
Time passed in a very strange way
above there.
What might feel like a few seconds
can actually be brief or vice versa.
You know, is very difficult to tell.
He called me, and I was lucky
that the connection was made.
He was very happy.
He tell me everyone feels good,
that there is no problem
Then...
yes, I just hope to hear from him,
you know, five or six hours.
When we are ready to go down, and he says,
"Okay, now I don't want to take the flag"
"camera, phone sit,"
"everything you have to carry." </ P>
And I took everything.
You know it's almost all accidents in climbing
happens on the way down, on offspring.
You're tired You relax
The day is getting dark.
So that the factor that every climber knows.
We managed to catch Rolf further down.
He was very happy and congratulated us
And we decided to go down together, of course,
got to the rope anyway, slow, but efficient.
That would dark only 15 minutes After we get to the rope,
so we use our head torch.
When Rolf gets there, I ask him if he wants to go first,
or if he wants me to go first
Do you want me to go first?
- He said, "Lars, I go first . " - No, I go first
- "You take care of my wife." - You take care of my wife
Yes.
That is...
This is the last thing he said.
I don't know if I hear anything,
but I feel it
Land Trembling below me.
The last thing I see is Rolf's head torch moving.
And then it's dark.
You have to think I'm crazy saying this, but...
Suddenly, I can hear his voice.
And it's very strong.
Like, say,
>
"You have to go down."
You will think,
"Follow the line, and there is Camp Four."
And in a few days, we will have a big party
The problem is, you are very tired,
and you are not concentrated.
And everyone will go down at their own pace
We arrived at the Korean Sherpa and the Korean team.
Everyone,
They gathered, regrouped.
We only have one choice. </ P>
We put everyone together on one rope,
then try to lower it together. </ P>
We are currently looking for climbing mountains every hour,
and we are monitoring our radio all the time
And we have started more and more anxious
about their security
We see this headlight and think,
"Dear God. Dear God."
"They don't move very fast."
"What is happening?"
We start feeling...
Desperate.
Korea is completely stopped.
It is impossible to drop them
>
with the same string
because they are sitting.
Broadly speaking is a little stuck,
is not very clear.
One time, you don't run all together again,
so you are a little apart,
a few meters between you.
Everyone just goes down.
We arrive at the point where the rope should still be,
But it doesn't exist.
Marco see.
I'm looking for
But we can't find it.
I'm sure that this is the right way,
But why isn't there a rope there?
"We have to be on the wrong side from the mountain,
or we will definitely lose."
My soul says, "Marco, stop yourself. "
" Stop, stop, stop. "
I call Ger.
I say," Ger, Let's stay here all night. "
We have to keep quiet
because it will be easy for an avalanche to get us.
I hope during the day < > the slowest to hear from them.
And the phone rings When I'm having lunch,
and I think that's it, But it's a friend else.
He's like, "Have you ever heard from Ger?"
And I said, "No. I was really worried."
And then I come home from lunch,
immediately on the internet,
and the first thing is "Trouble on K2."
The first thing I think about is,
" Okay, when is the sun? going up in K2? "</ P>
" Because that's how they will start moving again. "</ P>
And, you know," How much more What time are they out there? "
We are stranded above the death zone
Mahdi comes out of his head.
I think he will kill both of us
With instinct, I dig a hole into the slope
to get out of the storm
I remember screaming at the top of my lungs,
"I don't want to die!"
And that's when I heard them above the roar of the wind.
I don't know whether is Compagnoni or Lacedelli,
but I hear a voice
"Do you want us? to freeze you?"
"Leave oxygen and go down immediately."
For me, descendants are not very big problems.
I'm so fixated at the bottom of
that I don't really know who's in front of me
or behind me
So only that, I know that I see light
and I will come close to the light
Then I saw that Hugues, French people
Hey, Hugues.
Hey, Gas.
Y... you go first
You are faster than me.
I passed it, and I keep going down.
Use your time.
Go. Go.
And then I see something it's okay with a rope.
If you sleep, you die.
I think Wilco heard our voice,
so he came towards us.
We don't panic.
We ever- we just sit
We just, you know, yes,
wonder why we can't find strap it.
But we are sure the next morning,
with the first light,
we will find the rope again.
Koreans, they sit.
I feel, this is very, very sad,
because I understand many people,
they don't can reach it a high camp tonight
4:00.
Nothing,
there is no ice anchor, no length ,
there is no stone anchor, there is no fixed path, nothing
Then I try to contact with Korean Sherpas,
but I can't bring them to the radio
because there isn't turning on the radio </ p >
That is a big problem.
Hmm.
We can go.
We can go up and...
If we have people, we can do this
It's still good and clear. </ P>
We can see some climbers
at the top of the serac.
We are sure that, with the first light,
we will find the rope again.
And Gerard goes < > to the right, you know,
to look around there.
I'll go left to look around there.
Marco looked somewhere. </ P>
We couldn't find it. </ P>
And then I began to realize
that I have a problem with my view
I'm getting panicked, you know, because I know -
fuck, get snow-blind < br /> at this height it's finished
There are no helicopters coming in.
People can't do something with an 80 kilo body.
Done. - Guys! </ P>
So, I said, "Listen, friends." </ P>
"I have to go down. I have to go down. "
I have to go down!
So I just go down
without thinking and just go down.
Only one question.
This is base camp Call Serbia
You know some information about Gerard, the Irish guide,
of the Norit expedition ?
What I heard was "Jimmy,"
but "Jumik and Put in trouble."
They are Korean Sherpas.
Yes.
And then Rolf /> and then "Prenmaldik"?
I don't even understand that Other people have died.
I was shocked.
I remember a phone calls I have to be my father-in-law.
I'm so scared to make that phone call
He'll be mad at me for not looking after his son .
But on the contrary, he said...
"You have to get it from the mountain."
"You have to go home."
p>
Yes.
I don't want to lose my husband,
Of course, my best friend...
And my future
as I expected.
"What's the matter are they here?"
I have some spare gloves, So I give gloves.
I just, you know, surprised by that
I said, "Listen."
"I have to go down"
"Because I started to get snow-blind.
And he said, "Yes, yes,"
"But help is also on the way, so go ahead. "
I will send help
Everything is up there by themselves.
They don't move anywhere.
They just sit still, just waiting to get help
South Korea the expedition leader, Kim,
is arranging a rescue mission.
>
"They don't stand up, move one meter,"
"and you tell me that I have to go there"
"when es Still falling? "
There is no fixed network.
There is no string.
I mean, it's just crazy.
This is not a guided tour.
We cannot physically pick people from this mountain
Then the American team, they said,
" Since we don't have enough labor, "
" we can't go alone, a rescue, "
" because physically we are all very weak. "
" Still jammed, is very dangerous. "
" Then, now we have to go down. "
Understood . Understood.
Most people, they move from -
Get off from Camp Four,
move down.
Then, uh...
In our group,
Kim insists that we go to save. </ P>
We have no choice. </ P>
We must follow their instructions
They pay us ,
and they act like they have our lives.
I'm very thirsty, you know,
and I know I'm getting crazy /> within a few hours,
because if you don't have water at that height
for a long time, you won't survive.
I looked up, and I saw that Marco and Gerard
were with the Koreans.
Which way?
him.
That is the leader of Korean climbers.
But everything is ruined
with lots of blood everywhere.
I have worked for 15 years in saving mountains,
and I have seen many things and many people.
I know this is a bad situation.
Good. Good.
You are fine.
You have to save yourself in K2.
This is the only way.
I have never tried to take credit
from Lacedelli and Compagnoni conquered K2,
neither did I.
But Mahdi and I were written from the story.
Our sacrifice completely removed
in official records
Then lied to behind my back for decades.
They say we use oxygen < br /> to save ourselves.
This is oxygen, your mind,
It's Lino and Achille used to reach the top.
For 30 years, I have been attacked,
been accused, provoked, and slandered
p>
all because I volunteered my own life
in the service of my people and my country
Without Mahdi and me, K2 will still be a dream.
We work together.
I found a walkie-talkie under Sherpa
I talked to someone.
>
I don't know who it is who is listening
I speak.
I said, "I can't speak English." </ p p>
"I speak English Tarzan."
I said, "I am Marco. I am called."
But then Ger, he returned a little.
I don't understand why.
I don't know if he wants to attract Koreans still.
I speak on the radio, and then I start down.
All I can think of go, hang on
I have to survive.
Called a friend.
Ask him if he comes
so I don't need to be alone.
He came to the door,
and he gripped me, and he said,
"We will be from the mountain." </ P>
Okay, you have to bring it down.
Kim says we must continue to climb higher
and find the Korean team.
He lives,
but nobody - would like to come with me
But everyone says, "No, it's still dangerous."
Then finally, I... I started climbing again.
He wore a green suit. </ P>
I know it's Marco. </ P>
If I don't have oxygen, I can't lower it
because I can't bring it .
After ten minutes,
Marco tried to move and tried to talk to me.
Please, Install.
I'm here with the Korean team. </ P>
They say, "We saw Korean Sherpa"
"and the Korean team." </ P>
"Now we try to get down together. "
Is there anyone else there?
There is one other climber,
What is the color of the setting below it?
Red and black.
When they say, then I think it could be Ger.
I don't know who the person is rolled down
Then I got there , and I see two Korean bodies
ten meters away from two other Sherpa bodies.
I know the backpack is and boots and clothes down.
Everyone wants to survive...
doesn't matter if you have a child or... or a wife at home.
Yes, there are The last time I saw Gerard
and other Koreans,
but I don't know what happened to them
Why... am I safe?
Yes, that... it's just a matter of from... stupid...
yeah, damn at the wrong time
and the wrong place.
Wilco, our expedition leader,
Return with the helicopter because he froze his legs.
And there is a second helicopter for Marco
He smothered his hands very badly,
so he can't use his hands to get the rope again
The helicopter carries the last congratulations
of a mission that is destined to climb
one of the world the most challenging mountain
Marco Confortola Italia saved from K2
almost five days after an avalanche
sweep several climbers and strand someone else.
And very frozen
from trying to help save others in the group
Instinct, he said, makes you want to do that
Confortola said that the expedition
was disturbed by experience and bad equipment.
He says some ropes and nails break easily
Different people say different things.
There is a lot of confusion.
There are many stories,
but Marco's story be the story.
We are all ready,
all alpine climbers
We are people who know what we do,
but it's K2, the most difficult mountain. </ P>
This person has a terrible experience up there
He was in a very bad condition, both mentally and physically.
I said, "Look, I need..."
"Find out for sure, you know,"
"What happened here, like, you know?
" I have to go to Pakistan. "</ P>
That's really scary, because we don't know
what we enter for
And, I mean, I think half of me
The type that Ger still believes is still alive,
and the other half don't believe.
The next day, we have to meet Wilco and Cas.
I'm sorry. I just hope he life.
But he said he saw Ger fall, and the story...
And in my heart, there is hope.
- I know this is ridiculous. - Yes, I understand. </ P>
- So he - he is dead? - Yes of course. what do Marco convey directly to us.
Wilco and Cas,
they are obviously nervous
because our brother has died, You know,
and they live. </ P>
dan mereka hidup.
Mengapa kita berpisah?
Why don't we see each other?
The only explanation is because we are too -
too long at altitude. </ p >
Marco's account is, he sits there with Ger,
Then there are three people in front of them
And suddenly, < br /> the people disappeared.
So they were very scared,
they decided, "Let's just sit here
" and wait until noon, "no?
And then he says you are following,
but then... then...
No, no, no, that's not true,
because we started together.
So you're all... You bivouacked all together?
- Yeah. - You never come later? </ P>
No.
One thing that always happens wait in my head
and is still valid to this day is...
how many people on the mountain
Can have a different story about the same event
And then we return at night,
and then after- and then the next morning,
everything happened.
They have information
about a little Wilco remembers
and a little Cas can remember
and what they hear Marco remembers.
And they draw a map for us,
You know, the terrain is
where they think < br /> things happen.
Marco is a very emotional boy.
He...
Yes, and he really... .
He... at the end... he is very tired
They don't know anymore.
Cas and Wilco have been flown into the air from the mountain
There is no debriefing with the rest of the team,
and they really don't know.
>
He just started getting confused.
We need more.
Do you know what I mean?
That's not enough.
For some reason, we feel we need to talk to Pemba.
but Pemba and the rest of the Norit team
are hiking out , and it takes two days.
Also, mentally, Psychologically,
Marco is almost angry.
- Yeah. - Yeah. </ P>
Because when I try to give oxygen,
he is angry with me
He always talks /> negative, negative,
always cry
"You're a fucking person,"
"why did you come here to pick me up?"
- Yeah. - Yeah.
- That is... - Don't really understand.
- We say a head case. - Yeah.
and all the headlines people left too
Maybe he has something to say
What happened in K2,
the story of rescue, </ p >
is that I tried for three or four hours
to help the boy.
That's something that just came </ p >
From my heart.
That happened after that that I paid the consequences.
What Marco did on the mountain...
no one can take that away from him
He is a hero on the mountain.
I mean, family always- to this day,
"He is a hero."
But the story is changed from Marco
from what he originally came outwith.
He said Ger was always in front,
that Ger left it.
In a day or two, the story was being spread in the newspaper. </ P>
Marco was indeed the last living witness
had seen Ger. </ P>
So to hear these stories Ger is always ahead,
he is hallucinating,
His body is scattered the whole mountain -
this is very sad for us, like
He changed the story several times,
which of course doesn't help do it all.
Dan... and, you know, the story has a lot of influence
because everyone is gone,
everyone has perished
So you could say Whatever you want.
Who is there who's there to contradict what you say,
except Pemba.
Look, what we have is just a story to stick to, </ p >
and-and now all stories are different.
And this is very difficult, do you know?
Every story is different,
and that's all we have.
We don't have a body.
But why do we ask...
because now I am, what is your story
is that yourself a little lower
than Gerard's body, so...
Two fresh Sherpas forced by the Korean leader
reach Korea,
only the top of couloir.
And then they are down together.
the three of them are hanging,
but maybe they have moved at that time.
Yes, at the same time,
three, four times, the serac falls. </ P>
Multi-serac...
Pemba is the part missing from the puzzle.
He holds the key for many people's questions.
Ger has given his camera to Pemba at the top,
has a Pemba (Bar camera down and all
And he keeps taking pictures of what's happening
It's clear, if so, why Ger rejects
down the mountain.
There are people in trouble.
Ger never goes,
will never leave them after
It will destroy it to just leave the Koreans.
It will eat it,
and it will definitely haunt him today and night, I think.
At first, we were not told the Ger returned to the scene.
It came out soon.
When we meet, < br /> Pemba knows something
that we don't know at that time -
the second radio call
Please, Install.
>
I'm here with the Korean team.
They meet Koreans at the top of the traffic.
That means they travel from the place they are stuck,
all the way across across.
Ger frees them.
No one else is there to do it
we will do everything for each other.
But what Gerard did -
is not only in his own team... hehe. ..
he fought for his life
and even for the life of from Koreans
Did they succeed in dropping it to Kamp Empat with safe,
it will be one of the most amazing stories
in the history of mountaineering, do you know?
Rather, < br /> because they're exposed to ice,
This is tragedy,
and then that becomes controversial.
Ger is right in its nature to the end.
That's what he- That's him.
If it takes 100 years,
the truth must be admitted
by whom to whom the verdict belongs to
Often, when someone loses lives,
what goes down is held, you know,
under a microscope.
And some people might say, "They should do this,
and they should not do that." </ P>
Just because you survive Mount
doesn't make you expert, and it's not -
I don't think so gives you the right to -
to say that someone made a mistake, you know,
because you only- you know,
If you aren't there, you don't know.
Only the mountain knows.